Question about 2003 Ford Expedition
How do I change spark plugs on a ford expedition
Changing the spark plugs on a 1997 Ford Expedition 5.4L engine takes patience. Remember to start this project on a cold engine! I started on the passenger side by locating the Coil over iginition coils and cleaned out all the old dirt using some compressed air. Then I had to disconnect the electrical connections to both the Coil over ignition coils and the passenger side fuel injectors. Once you remove the small bolt which holds the ignition coil in place, use your compressed air again to blow out the spark plug hole. After that, you will need a 5/8" swivel spark plug socket and various length extensions to remove the spark plugs. Take your time because there is not much room for your hands. Before installing the new plug, check the gap and use clean engine oil on the new threads. Tighten the new spark plug and reinstall the coil over ignition coil. Reconnect the electrical connection to both the ignition coil and the fuel injector. Continue these steps with all eight spark plugs. You will find the ones on the drivers side are difficult because of the fuel rail gets in your way. Have patience and use swivel extensions to work around the tight spaces. When you are done, you will have saved lots of money! Don't forget to replace your air filter, fuel filter, and pcv valve to complete your tune up.
Posted on Jun 23, 2008
That's because they are hidden quite well. If you look at the engine, you'll see yellow plastic prongs (?) that look like spark plugs, but hook up to the silver tubing. That's the fuel injectors. BUT, right behind the yellow plugs, are black ones. The black one is the connector to the spark plug. The plug itself sits about 4 inches down into the block of the engine. They are a real pain, and from what I can tell, you only have decent access to the first 2-4 of them, then they get too far back and start going under the dash (you'll see what I mean when you get there).
Posted on Aug 06, 2008
SOURCE: 2002 ford expedition how do
YOU MUST PULL ALL THE IGNITION COILS (DIRECT IGNITION) OF THE TOP OF THE SPARK PLUGS, IT IS A 2 HOUR JOB MINIMUM, I HATED THIS JOB AS A FORD DEALER TECH, SHREDS YOUR HANDS.
Posted on Nov 30, 2008
A set of spark plugs usually requires replacement after about 20,000–30,000 miles (32,000–48,000 km), depending on your style of driving. In normal operation plug gap increases about 0.001 in. (0.025mm) for every 2500 miles (4000 km). As the gap increases, the plug's voltage requirement also increases. It requires a greater voltage to jump the wider gap and about two to three times as much voltage to fire the plug at high speeds than at idle. The improved air/fuel ratio control of modern fuel injection, combined with the higher voltage output of modern ignition systems, will often allow an engine to run significantly longer on a set of standard spark plugs, but keep in mind that efficiency will drop as the gap widens (along with fuel economy and power).
When you're removing spark plugs, work on one at a time. Don't start by removing the plug wires all at once, because, unless you number them, they may become mixed up. Take a minute before you begin and number the wires with tape.
Be sure not to use a flexible extension on the socket. Use of a flexible extension may allow a shear force to be applied to the plug. A shear force could break the plug off in the cylinder head, leading to costly and frustrating repairs.
Posted on May 13, 2009
These plugs can be difficult, the plug design sucks and if you are not careful you can break them off in the head. Ford issued a TSB069-2008-1 on how to properly remove the plugs and also there is a special tool so if you break a plug off. My friends cost him 300 for a dealer to do it and saved a lot of time. Hope this helps you out.....
Posted on Oct 21, 2009
I recently changed them and it was a job when you have to crawl up and inside the engine area. But anyways, I started out by buying the E3 plugs, which don't have to be gapped and they do save a little gas plus increased in a little more power. (not much), These set me back $56. go with a basic motorcraft platinum or bosch platinum. I then removed the top engine cover, removed bolts for fuel rail and easily pulled the injector rail up (you will see to replace the o-rings on the injectors by some people, but if you're careful you don't have to.) This gives you the room you need at the back of the engine to remove the plugs. I started at the front by removing the small bolt holding the coil in place, then removing the the coil/wire with a boot removal tool. ( Again you don't need this tool, but it comes in handy at the back plugs). After removing the coil, I simply remove the plug, Apply anti-seize to the new one and install plug. I then apply Di-Electric grease to the inside of the coil boot to prevent moisture getting in. I then install the coil back down on the plug and tighten down and move on to the next.
1. you will need a swivel for the socket
2. you will need an extension, ( I use a long 8" extension)
3. Anti-Seize Grease
4. Di-Electric Grease
5. If installing a plug to be gapped it is .54
6. After installing, check for fuel leaks at the injectors.
It took me about 1 1/2 hours to replace all plugs and a dealer charges about $375. Good Luck if you need any further help get back to me and I'll help any I can.
Posted on Aug 17, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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