If you are talking about the metal lines acroos the window,they do have a type of repair which can be done.At some national auto parts stores,they sell tape which basically has a metal line also,and can make the 2 broken ends work good again.It is like splicing a wire,or using an extension cord basically.If you call a couple,I believe it is still around.I haven't seen it in awhile,but I have been in FL 10 years now.It may simple be called defroster tape,defroster repair tape,something like that.
Greg
I'm sorry, I should have been more specific. One of the two rubber defrost cables that are connected to my rear window is now hanging. It isn't connected to the window anymore and the rear defrost won't work unless both of the cables are attached. I've gotten quotes from $250 and up to replace the window.
You should not need a new window.That is probably far from a good solution.The wiring would be first.Would you please describe the cable a little better?Normally,there is a metal plate attached to a large section of the defrosters,which,in a circuit would be a bus bar.It simply helps providing power to more than 1 place/line.You said a rubber cable.There should be wiring or something inside it.I will attempt to at least get this connected back up properly,not 'rigging' it,unless you want to attempt it as a last option.Also,a junk yard window would most likely be much cheaper than $250.Greg
I truly hope that I don't need a new window! The window glass has thin wires traveling through it in a rectangular shape. From the top of the car are two thick rubber "twisted" cables, one on each side of the window. They are connected to the glass by metal plates that look like they are glued onto the glass with rubber cement or something like it. On one side, that metal plate can come apart from the glass. The rear defrost won't now work at all because both cables aren't attached. Is it hard to replace this? All of the estimates I've gotten have said not to try to re-attach the cable (they probably just want the money). If I find a rear glass at the junk yard would we be able to install it cheaper at home? Thanks a LOTTT!!!!
I found a couple of forums.One mentions glue which is called dielectric glue.It basically means it is good to conduct electricity.The other mentions solder.If it is cold where you are which seems it is,I don't know if it's a typo but NO WAY would I use 400W iron on a near frozen window.It's probably 40W.Has to be.I am sending the links which definitely are good instructions.The glue is expensive.Some say it works,some say not.I have all the solder equipment so I would at least try that myself but solder requires a little practice as far as you would need to do.You could get pretty good just practicing for about an hour.I'll tell you what to watch for if you end up wanting to try it.Difficulty for replacing the window would depend on whether it rolls up or not.If not,that would be much much easier.Links don't work proper down here so it will be above.When I post links,if they are in black,they don't work...you would have to copy and paste.When in color,click and goes.
The first 2 are 1 for glue(first),1 for solder.It isn't a misprint.No way would I try a 200W solder in winter.The glue should be available at almost any national auto parts store.The 3rd is just the google search for various other things but the first 2 have excellent info.Let me know about the window,whether it goes up and down or just liftback.It looks like liftback to me.If it is,you may wantto find out a price from a used store if there is one near.It would also require some glue made specifically for windows and I thinkthey recommend a day for a good seal.Greg
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