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did you mark the two ends of the shaft at gearbox and diff
so they lined up again
with the center bearing replacement
did you mark the two halves before separating and replacing the center bearing
then make sure they lined up again
if vibration is there
you may need to go to a diff shop and have the drive shaft balanced properly
most cv axles or held in the gear box /diff by a round sectioned circlip at the end of the splines in the diff
once you have the axle free of the hub and bearings use a heavy hammer on the back side of the cv joint or a heavy slide hammer attached to the end of the axle
you have to compress that circlip so that it allows the axles to slide out
Hi Douglas, I'm glad to help. My first suggestion is to get to complete shaft. This way you want have any problems later on. It's not that much more expensive and you'll be glad you did. Below is the procedure for replacing them.
Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. Refer to Hoisting in the Lubrication And Maintenance section of this manual for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
Remove the wheel and tire assembly from the vehicle.
Remove the wave washer Wave Washer from the end of the stub axle
CAUTION: Wheel bearing damage will result if after loosening hub nut, vehicle is rolled on the ground or the weight of the vehicle is allowed to be supported by the tires.
With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub from turning, loosen and remove the stub axle to hub nut.
Remove the disc brake caliper from the steering knuckle. Caliper is removed by first rotating top of caliper away from steering knuckle and then removing bottom of caliper out from under machined abutment on steering knuckle Brake Caliper Mounting To Steering Knuckle
Support disc brake caliper assembly by using a wire hook and suspending it from the strut assembly Correctly Supported Disc Brake CaliperDo not allow the brake caliper assembly to hang by the brake flex hose.
Remove nut attaching outer tie rod end to steering knuckle Removing Tie Rod End Attaching NutNut is to be removed from tie rod end using the following procedure, hold tie rod end stud with a 11/32 socket while loosening and removing nut with a wrench.
Using a pry bar, separate steering knuckle from ball joint stud Separating Ball Joint Stud From Steering KnuckleNote: Use caution when separating ball joint stud from steering knuckle, so ball joint seal does not get cut.NOTE: Care must be taken not to separate the inner C/V joint during this operation. Do not allow driveshaft to hang by inner C/V joint after removing outer C/V Joint from the hub/bearing assembly in steering knuckle, end of driveshaft must be supported.
Support the outer end of the driveshaft assembly. Insert a pry bar between inner tripod joint and transaxle case Disengaging Inner Tripod Joint From Transaxle Pry against inner tripod joint, until tripod joint retaining snap ring is disengaged from transaxle side gear.
Hold inner tripod joint and interconnecting shaft of driveshaft assembly. Remove inner tripod joint from transaxle, by pulling it straight out of transaxle side gear and transaxle oil seal Tripod Joint Removal from TransaxleWhen removing tripod joint, do not let spline or snap ring drag across sealing lip of the transaxle to tripod joint oil seal.
Thoroughly clean spline and oil seal sealing surface, on tripod joint. Lightly lubricate oil seal sealing surface on tripod joint with fresh clean transmission lubricant.
Holding driveshaft assembly by tripod joint and interconnecting shaft, install tripod joint into transaxle side gear as far as possible by hand Tripod Joint Removal from Transaxle
Grasp inner tripod joint an interconnecting shaft. Forcefully push the tripod joint into side gear of transaxle, until snap ring is engaged with transaxle side gear. Test that snap ring is fully engaged with side gear by attempting to remove tripod joint from transaxle by hand. If snap ring is fully engaged with side gear, tripod joint will not be removable by hand.
Clean all debris and moisture out of steering knuckle, in the area were outer C/V joint will be installed into steering knuckle.
Ensure that front of outer C/V joint which fits against the face of the hub and bearing is free of debris and moisture before installing outer C/V joint into hub and bearing assembly Outer C/V Joint Inspection
Install tie rod end into steering knuckle. Start attaching nut onto stud of tie rod end. While holding stud of tie rod end stationary using a 11/32 socket, Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut tighten tie rod end to steering knuckle attaching nut. Then using a crowfoot and 11/32 socket Torquing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut , tighten the tie rod end attaching nut to a torque of 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.)
Install disc brake caliper assembly on steering knuckle. Caliper is installed by first sliding bottom of caliper under abutment on steering knuckle, and then rotating top of caliper against top abutment Brake Caliper Mounting To Steering Knuckle
Install disc brake caliper assembly to steering knuckle attaching bolts Front Disc Brake Caliper Attaching Bolts Tighten the disc brake caliper assembly attaching bolts to a torque of 22 N·m (195 in. lbs.)
Clean all foreign matter from the threads of the outer C/V joint stub axle. Install the washer and stub axle to hub/bearing assembly nut on stub axle and securely tighten nut.
Install front wheel and tire assembly. Install and tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half the required specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.)
when you pop the axel out of trans you could possibly lose a little fluid but not a whole lot you will lose less if the vehicle is only raised on the side you are removing i would also check the hub bearing
I have the same problem. I had five new bearings fitted ... one on each wheel and one on the long drive shaft. The noise is now ten times worse so I would guess a faulty "new" bearing being fitted. Ford say that it can only be the final drive bearings in the gearbox now which means an exchange gearbox (not expensive ... around £350 - £400) but add labour and fitting a new clutch while the opportunity is there, I'm giving £700 a nasty look. If I am in neutral with engine running, the noise is not there. If I coast out of gear (with clutch in or out), the noise is there ... can only be the wheel bearings or gearbox driveshaft bearings.
manual ,thank heaven ,dont see many autos here in spain,right without driving car so i can hear it then it stands two possibilities ,when clutch is depressed you hear a noise like a grinding squel ,this is the thrust bearing ,if you hear a rumbling noise that disappears when clutch is depressed then this is lay shaft bearings ,Now also the problem can be the fingers on the clutch plate are worn and the bearing is pushing the clutch plate fingers down but if one or two are worn away then the thrust bearing is being pushed through the pressure plate ,either way a new clutch is need and as these vehicles are rear wheel drive they are not difficult to renew ,Just have to make yourself a clutch alignment tool from a broom handle .Dont be scared of it they are not that difficult to do just dirty and messy thats all the hardest part is aligning the clutch so the spigot shaft goes through easly and you dont have to struggle pushing the gearbox in
Take out the drive-axle. Cut the old rubber-boot clamps off and discard them.
Remove the boot from the inner CV joint nnd slide the tripod from the joint housing.
Remove the snap-ring with a pair of snap-ring pliers.
Drive the tripod the tripod joint from the drive-axle with a brass punch and hammer; careful not to damage the bearing surfaces or splines on the shaft.