Question about 1983 Oldsmobile Delta 88

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Brake problem I just replace a front brake line and the main line back to the rear wheels. It doesn't appear to be leaking anywhere, but the brake pedal travels to the floor, when pressed. Could there be too much air in the system?

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Had a similar thing hapen to me. Had a leaking line that drained the reservoir. No matter how much I bled at the wheels, I couldn't get good pedal. Almost decided to change the master, but first tried bleeding it on the car. The way we did it was to pump the brakes like you're bleeding at a wheel, then I quickly cracked the brake line loose at the master. It took several times, but I was chasing my tail trying to push the air out at the wheels. Had to go and bleed from each wheel afterwards, but it saved me from buying a new master.

Posted on Feb 11, 2009

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Hi rkoontz!

ABSOLUTELY! Have you bled the brake lines since the replacement? If not, bleed the fronts first, with a helper pumping the pedal repeatedly to build pressure, then hold the pedal firmly down while you open the bleeder valve on each front wheel to release captured air mixed with fluid. A section of clear tubing sized to snugly fit over the bleeder valve nipple will allow you to see the air bubbles being released, and will show you when you are getting the bubble-free stream of fluid that you want.
***IMPORTANT*** DO NOT LET UP ON PEDAL until the bleeder valve has been closed --- otherwie air will be sucked back into the system through the bleeder valve if the pedal is released while the bleeder is open... Start on the side where you replaced the front line... make sure the reservoir does not run low on fluid, or you'll end up pumping air back into the lines. Bleed each side twice, alternating sides. You should start getting pedal (i.e.: pedal quits going all the way to floor.) after this. Now go to the rears. Start at the block where the long line from the master cylinder to the rears splits into left and right. With the pedal pumped up and held firmly down, loosen the long line fitting at this block enough to allow fluid and air to escape. Keep repeating until you get steady fluid with no air at the block and then move on to the wheel bleeders, doing each side twice, like the fronts. You should have good solid pedal by now, provided the brakes are close to proper adjustment. The rears are self-adjusting, and (provided the self-adjusters are working properly) you induce self-adjustment by reversing to moderate speed and then firmly braking. Repeat as necessary until the pedal comes up to normal height. If the self-adjusters have failed, you can adjust the shoes the old fashioned way, levering the starwheels behind the backing plates with a brake adjuster tool. ALWAYS keep an eye on the fluid reservoir, and ALWAYS replace the reservoir cover after each top-off (eliminates brake fluid baths of the engine compartment). For good measure, bleed each wheel one more time, top off the reservoir, and you're done!!!

If you cannot get pedal after doing the above, you probably need a replacement master cylinder.

Hope this helps you solve your problem, and do not hesitate to ask if you have further questions or wish to post a comment. And please be so kind as to rate my assitance!

Good luck!

Posted on Jun 19, 2008


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