Question about 1997 Chevrolet Blazer

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ABS BRakes ABS system activates when you slow down & turn to the right while pressing on the brake pedal , such as pulling into my driveway to park , it does not activate when you turn to the left & do the same thing , both front wheel sensors have been checked & they are OK

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  • hilbern Jun 26, 2008

    I believe you did not understand my probem,the problem is not with the ABS warning light,it is with the fact that the ABS system activates when I slow down turn to the right,apply the brakes & attempt to park behind my garage ( dry pavement ) The brakes in this instance are not very Good , I have to press very hard to stop in time( Note it does not do this when I turn to the left ) Both Front Wheel Sensors Have Been Checked & They Are OK . Brakes Work Fine With The Front Wheel Sensors Disconnected From The Control Unit , Which Is How I Drive It . Hilbern in Edmonton Alberta

  • Oceanpirahna Oct 29, 2008

    2000 Chevy Tahoe. When going between 1-3 mph and applying the brake, the ABS system kicks in and when I push on the brakes the vehicle will normally stop in less than 5 feet, the vehicle takes up to 20 feet to stop. This is very dangerous in intersections. There was a recall because something gets corroded in the hub, but the recall is expired. How do I clean off the corroded part?

  • rsher0001 Oct 30, 2008

    I have a 1998 Blazer with similar symptoms. I replaced both front sensros and the problem disappeared for a few eeks but has come back now. Looking for suggestions other than pull fruze #10.

  • jmshakie Apr 06, 2009

    I have the same problem with my 2001 Chevrolet suburban, but mine engages when I turn and brake left or right. This can be really dangerous in certain situations, and the only thing I can do to keep from hitting something is to push on the brake as hard as I can and hope to stop in time.

  • jemek1953 Apr 08, 2009

    2000 blazer ....same problem abs activates when pulling into driveway but not all the time. abs flashes on and off on a regular basis usually on right turns, sometimes it will flash other times it comes on and stays on.

  • Anonymous Mar 19, 2014

    wheel shakes when brake pedal is pressed


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Check the brake light switch at the pedal. However an overheated/melted bulb base means arcing to me. So, BOTH sockets are probably slightly corroded & rusted. You fix that by scraping the terminals inside the socket with a pocket knife or screwdriver. Clean with alcohol or contact cleaner. If the new bulb isn't tight, and can be moved back and forth by hand, bend the contacts inward slightly, but don't snap them, they are spring steel. I was wondering when somebody would ask this question. I fix them at least to once a month - not the same car, but all GM's, and when fixed, they're good. Use logic if centre safety/brake light works.

The remote start sounds normal. There are many different types and they are quirky.

You should scan for codes with an OBD II scanner. If the problem was in the brake light connections or is fixed at the pedal, erase codes. It could be, by coincidence, and in no relation whatsoever to this problem, that a front wheel bearing sensor has gone - they do that, and require a new hub assembly.

Posted on Jun 25, 2008

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If abs go out will i still be able to use my other brakes.

Yes you should be able to disable the ABS but I cannot emphasize this enough.....DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR UNTIL FIXED.

ABS and the normal braking system is the same set of brakes. It is not 2 separate systems. You can disable ABS and that varies between manufacturers as to how to do that. It could be the simple press of a button marked ABS or entering a menu and disabling or it may require sophisticated dealer only equipment.
Your ABS is obviously faulty (or at least one of the sensors is faulty) as it should only operate when it detects a wheel locking up under braking and you should then feel the pulsing through your brake pedal as it disengages and re-engages rapidly to prevent locking up the wheel.
Find out how to disable the ABS and see if that stops the shaking. Do it somewhere safe, not the highway and do it at a slow speed. Best course is to get it looked at by a professional

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Most vehicles will function normally if you do this. Try using your brakes at a slow speed like in your driveway before normal use just to make sure !

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If the brake pedal goes hard right BEFORE the car dies, and not after, then you could have a problem INSIDE the brake power booster. try to verify this next time it dies at a stop, if you can safely pull the dead car off the road into a driveway (or try to make it stall in a bumpy parking lot) - then before you try to restart the car, open the hood, pull off the rubber hose where it's plugged into the brake power booster --> you SHOULD hear a big "Swoosh" of air being sucked into the booster because there's supposed to be a strong vacuum there even after the car stops running. if you get nothing there, your car is dying of an excessive vacuum leak through the brake booster.= bad booster.

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ABS BRakes

I recommend checking the gaps against specification (sorry I don't know what the spec is, check with a local dealer) between the tone wheel and the sensors, and making sure that the wheel bearings do not have excess play. The bearing play can mean that the gap changes when turning a corner, either too much gap or not enough, and the sensor gives a different output from the other 3 wheels which the abs computer thinks is wheel slip and the abs is activated. This may only apply to the front sensors, your vehicle will likely just have one sensor in the rear, mounted on the diff head, but if it has 4 sensors then check out the axle endfloat in the rear also.

Hope this helps,

Nov 03, 2008 | 1998 Chevrolet Blazer

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1996 ford taurus abs activates for no reason

this is normal, all abs systems are full time, if they weren't then the systems would be useless.

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