1999 chevy caviler key won't turn motor over can cross over on starter and motor will turn but won't start. new battery ,starter tested good tryed new key switch tryed new starter relay going to try neautral safety switch what else is left to try.
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Try to reset security manually. Make sure battery is good. Insert key into ignition turn to on position (make sure to "bump starter"every time you turn to on position). Leave in ignition for 11 minutes. Security light should go off before proceeding to next step. Turn key to off position for 30 seconds. Then turn back to on position for 11 minutes. Then turn to off position for another 30seconds. Then turn to on position for another 11 minutes. Then turn to off position for 30 seconds. Turn key to on position again for 30 seconds. Start engine. That should work if every thing is compatible
I'm assuming just by the fact you had a new battery and new starter that sometimes when you turn the key to the start position , nothing happens . Is your vehicle a automatic transmission ? When it doesn't start have checked for battery voltage at the starter solenoid S terminal ? Is there B+ voltage at pins 30 & 86 for the starter relay ? Pin 86 while cranking the engine or trying to crank the engine over . Pin 30 check with key on . Try moving gear selector to neutral . Videos on youtube for basic automotive electrical testing . How to voltage drop test starter motor circuit Find a wiring diagram at www.bbbind.com
Starting System Circuit Description
Voltage is applied at all times to the ignition switch from the IGN A fuse 6 through CKT 242 (RED). When the ignition switch is turned to the START position, voltage is applied to the CRANK fuse 8 through CKT 5 (YEL). From the CRANK fuse 8, voltage is either applied to the clutch pedal position switch (M/T) or the transmission range switch (A/T) through CKT 806 (PPL). When either the clutch is disengaged (M/T) or the transmission is in park or neutral (A/T), voltage is applied to the coil of the starter relay through CKT 1035 (PPL/WHT). Since the starter relay is permanently grounded at ground G105 through CKT 150 (BLK), the starter relay energizes.
Voltage is applied at all times to the starter relay contacts from IGN A fuse 6 through CKT 242 (RED). When the starter relay energizes, the starter relay contacts close, and voltage is applied to the starter motor solenoid. Since the starter motor solenoid is permanently case grounded, the starter motor solenoid will energize two coils. The pull-in winding coil energizes in order to pull the starter motor solenoid contacts closed. When the contacts close, a plunger on the contacts causes the pull-in winding coil circuit to open. The hold-in winding coil then holds the starter motor solenoid contacts closed. Voltage is then applied to the starter motor from the battery through CKT 1 (BLK) and the closed contacts of the starter motor solenoid. Since the starter motor is also permanently case grounded, the starter motor will run until the ignition switch is moved out of the START position. When this happens, a spring in the starter motor solenoid moves the starter motor solenoid contacts and the plunger back to the rest position.
It sounds like you have a bad actuator. This is attached to the starter and has a solonoid that pushes the starter motor gears into the engine gear. If the solonoid is faulty this may happen. Also check alignment of the same.
DO you hear a clicking when you turn the key to start? Solenoid relay make a click sound when energized.
If the solenoid is not mounted on the starter motor then it will be near the battery
The key switch sends power to the solenoid. the solenid is a big remote controlled switch,and it takes power from the battery to the starter motor
It is possible that your starter motor is stuck. First of all you can place your vehicle in the 2nd gear and push to disengage the starter if it had the bendex stuck. there after try to start. If not you will need to remove the starter motor. carefully do remove and place it on a table . clean off all dirt, then open the motor carefully. you can even test the motor with a heavy power cord and the battery but please be very careful to hold or use a good vice grip to hold since the intial torque can make it slip from your hand. thereafter check the brushes and the bush / bearings. if damaged or wobbly change / replace. Now you can reset the starter motor and test.
I am sure it will work. Good day
Make sure battery has a full charge and battery connections all good. Any fuses in the diagram, test for voltage, some are hot all the time, some go hot with the key on.
Use a digital multimeter across battery posts, everything off, the generic spec for a full charge is around 12.6 volts. Leave the leads hooked up to battery, have a helper turn key to crank, how far does it drop? In my opinion it shouldn't drop much under 10 volts, I wouldn't argue with 9.6 volts.