Question about 2003 Mazda Mazda6

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Engine rattle betweem 2-35k rpm. connecting rod bearing was replaced two weeks ago

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Have you ever had the lifters checked?
lifters can make a heck of a noise if a lifter is dished and the push rod is got a lot of slop in it.

Posted on Nov 15, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Makes knocking noise that sound like something is loos banging only when jeep warms up and only in gear


TROUBLESHOOTING ENGINE NOISES
A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

Dec 07, 2013 | Jeep Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Making knocking sound


A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

Dec 06, 2013 | Nissan Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Sentra rattle in engine


If this vehicle was driven without oil, the rattle or knock you hear is more than likely a damaged main bearing or rod bearing...sounds like its time for a QUALIFIED PROFESSIONAL to listen to your engine run and give you his opinion... Good Luck!!!

Aug 12, 2017 | 2004 Nissan Sentra

1 Answer

I have a 2004 civic making loud rattling noise when i start it or step on gas


that would be your connecting rods or valves rattling if its your valves they just need more oil or adjusting and if its your connecting rods its a spun crank bearing and need for the crank to be replaced along with that one rod and all bearings in the lower part of your engine

Jun 22, 2012 | Honda Civic Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to tighten a loose rod? My car makes a rattling noise when accelerating, and someone told me it was this, so how long and how difficult would it be for an average car guy to fix this?


You can't tighten a loose connecting rod, the noise is likely caused by a worn bearing or defective crankshaft bearing journal, to repair this requires the engine assembly be removed from the car and the engine crankshaft machined smooth or replaced and new rod and crankshaft bearings bearings installed. The esiest way to handle this as far as time down and expense goes is to replace the engine with a rebuilt one.

Aug 09, 2011 | 1994 Mercury Cougar

1 Answer

My 96 chrysler lhs has a knocking/rattleing sound coming from the bottom engine and as you push down on the gas the faster you drive the louder it rattles


if the noise is coming from the bottom end of the motor then you have either bad connecting rod bearings or bad crank bearings.if when you snap the throttle you hear a double knock then its connecting rod bearing if not then its crank bearing.a collapsed piston can sound low in the engine and its usually a dull knock noise.if you have the engine running and the noise is there and you pull off one plug wire at a time(and reconnect it after checking) and the noise goes away or mostly goes away with the wire unhooked then the cylinder that the noise changed is the cylinder that has a bad piston.

May 25, 2011 | Chrysler LHS Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Hyundai Balance Shaft Bearing making noise?


Possible. It's hard to give you an accurate cause, since I'm not able
to hear the sound. Most of the time, when you hear a slight wrapping
sound, it's a rod bearing,or crank bearing. When the rod bearing goes,
you'll know it,since it will knock like an SOB.

Mar 25, 2010 | Hyundai Motor 2003 Sonata

1 Answer

2006 chevy silveado 2500hd 6.ol 92,000 miles no oil pressure!


Oil pressure is created by the oil pump, the main bearings and cam bearings. If these bearing are worn, excessive clearance, you will lose oil pressure. The rattling could be a rod bearing or wrist pin. You could try installing a "wet gauge" and check the oil pressure against the OEM specs, at different RPMS.

Mar 08, 2010 | Chevrolet 2500 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Engine rattling noise when reving above 2599 RPM's


sounds like crank noise....very serious...

but less serious to fix then to fix after it goes.


if could also be the vanos, variable valve timing. but at 2500 i'd say crank, especially if it has that rattle tone. that sound is a wearing connecting rod bearing. when it goes, the engine basically blows up and the insides try to escape through the engine wall...that destroys the bottom end, when that happens, stuff sometimes also goes up into the head, that destroys the top end.

then you would need a long block.

BTW: stop revying it above 2500. you need an engine job....seriously maybe cheaper to get a replacement engine from the junk yard.

Jan 27, 2010 | 1997 BMW 318

1 Answer

Sounds like a bearing going bad where do i look first


a rod bearing makes noise when you are just barely pulling .. it likely will quiet down as you accelerate and decellerate .. you can rev the engine up a bit then let up on the gas just enough to keep that rpm ..a rod bearing will rattle a lot then ... if a thud like noise happens when you are accelerating . then it could be a main bearing .. if the noise is there all the time and sounds like a rattle then its more likely a valve problem .. old oil can cause the lifters to stick and rattle continuously .. if the noise you hear is a squeal then you could have a bad bearing in the idler pully (for fan belt) or alternator .. if thats the case you can put a drop of oil on the bearings one at a time until the squeal goes away .. that will identify which part is going bad .. there are other less likely bearings that can go bad .. like the cam, distributer, air compressor and water pump .. each have their own type noise ..

Oct 23, 2009 | 2003 Chevrolet Monte Carlo

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