Question about 2002 Chevrolet Malibu

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When I turn on my heater, it won't even blow air until I get to level 5. What are the possible solutions?

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Heater fan resister is bad

Posted on Nov 18, 2010

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Blows cold air turn heat on


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    ... Cadillac, Chevrolet, Chrysler, Dodge, FIAT, Ford, Geo, GMC, Honda, Hummer,Hyundai, Infiniti, Isuzu, Jaguar ... I'll turn up the temp on the dual control to get heat,

Jan 28, 2016 | 2005 Hyundai Tucson

2 Answers

I have a 2004 tahoe when I start it to heat it up, the temp gauge goes up like usual, but will not blow hot air until I start driving down the road? I even let it warm up for about 45min. and still would...


Hi, the likely problem is a bubble forming in the system, possibly due to a head gasket failure.

Try stopping on a steep incline--does the heater stay warm? If yes, what you have is an air bubble that hangs at the heater hose until pressure from the water pump blows thru it as the engine speeds up. Park on an incline, open the radiator cap, run the engine until the thermostat is open, turn the heater on, crack open any/all bleed ports to release any trapped air, and fill the radiator to the neck. Wait until the level stops dropping and make sure bubbles don't continue to come up. If they do, you may have a blown head gasket that will keep forming these bubbles until you change the gasket.

Jan 11, 2011 | Chevrolet Tahoe Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

ONLY WARM AIR FROM HEATER, REPLACED THERMOSTAT, STILL ONLY WARM AIR. UPPER RADIATOR HOSE & HEATER CORE HOSES ARE HOT.


The next possibility, if you haven't already thiught of it, is as simple as making sure there is enough water/antifreeze solution in your radiator. If the level is too low, your hoses will get hot, but there will not be enought water to circulate into your heater core.

Dec 17, 2010 | Ford F-150 Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Heater only blows Very luke warm air on low speeds. when the speed is increased to 3-5 the heat goes away and it only blows cold air. Any suggestions


Read all of these instructions before starting this job.
First test your heater core for flow by disconnecting both heater core hoses from motor and forcing air from an air compressor into one of them watching for flow from the other. If you have no flow then you may need to backflush your heater core - it is possible you have blockage in it. Your local auto parts store has a backflush kit you can buy that will have a backflush valve ( to be added to your supply heater core hose ) and an additive to put in your coolant system. The kit will not include new coolant so you will need to get that too. Install valve and connect a garden hose.Run motor specified time in the kit. Remove lower hose from your radiator and turn on the water from the hose full blast. Watch the coolant coming out from your radiator to see if any chunky stuff comes out - also watch for the color of the flow. Run water until it comes out clear, then shut off water and disconnect garden hose. Allow system to drain, reconnect radiator hose and cap flush valve. Refill coolant system, turn heat on high and run motor until it is warm. Top off coolant in radiator ( be careful - the pressure may cause coolant to spray out when you remove cap - put a rag over the cap before you remove slowly). If you do not have warm air at this point you may have a bubble in the heater core and may need to block rear wheels then raise the front of the vehicle until the radiator cap is higher than the heater core. Restart vehicle and turn heater on high . Check coolant level in radiator and top off, then cap radiator and shut off motor. Lower vehicle and start again with heater on high. If you still have no heat then your heater core may be plugged. To check, remove both heater hoses from motor and force air from an air compressor into one of the hoses, watching for flow from the other hose - if no flow then core is plugged and needs to be replaced, but if you have flow then you still have an air bubble in the system and need to purge using the above steps until you have heat.
Hope this helps and please rate my solution - good luck!!

Nov 29, 2010 | 2001 Chevrolet Silverado

1 Answer

2006 chevy silverado 2500hd truck heats up to operating temp while in parking lot blower works well but truck will not blow any hot air until truck is driving at at least 15 to 20 mph. fuses good think...


If I understand you correctly, your temp gauge shows correct operating temperature, your blower fan blows air that you can feel with your hand from the right floor or dash outlet, but that air doesn't feel warm until you are moving?

If so, several possibilities come to mind. One is that your coolant level is low. Even though your temp gauge reads in the right range, the coolant level could be low enough that it doesn't reach the heater core until there is enough engine RPM to create more pressure from the water pump and force what coolant is there toward the heater core. Another possibility is that your heater controls are not able to do their job. A stuck flapper in the duct or a malfunction with the temperature control system could be causing the problem, and at 15-20 MPH there is enough air coming through the outside air vents to provide some heat.

I'd check the coolant level first, though. The other possibilities are more far-fetched.

Nov 26, 2010 | 2006 Chevrolet Silverado

1 Answer

No heat air is blowing cold


First you have to identify what causes the problem.
To do this you have to:
1) When engine is cold check the level of coolant. If it is low fill it up.
2) Start engine and check if engine reaches regular temperature. If your engine is not heated enough it means your thermostat does not work properly and should be replaced.
3) If engine temperature is normal, then check the temperature of pipes that go to/from heater core. These pipes are located up the fire wall (easier access is from the passenger side). If pipe/pipes are cold (even engine is worm) it means you heater core is plugged and should be flushed. Keep in mind, flushing the whole cooling system is different from flushing heater core.
4) If pipe/pipes are hot/warm, turn off the fan, switch controller to the hot position, wait for 3-4 minutes and turn on the fan. Note if the cold air blows first or warm air blows first but it cools down in 5-10 seconds. If the air blows cold than it is most probably the problem with blend door or blend door actuator.
5) If air blows warm first and then cools down, then while running engine and remaining the transmission in PARKING position, press on the gas pedal until your engine reaches 3,000 RPM. Check if your heater blows warm/hot air. If it does, then your water pump does not work properly and should be replaced. If the air still cold, I would suggest to flush the heater core.

Oct 22, 2009 | 1998 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

MY 1998 FOR TARUS HEATER WILL NOT WORK.WAS DRIVING


It is most probably the problem with blend door or blend door actuator. But just in case I would suggest to follow the entire procedure:

First you have to identify what causes the problem.
To do this you have to:
1) When engine is cold check the level of coolant. If it is low fill it up.
2) Start engine and check if engine reaches regular temperature. If your engine is not heated enough it means your thermostat does not work properly and should be replaced
3) If engine temperature is normal, then check the temperature of pipes that go to/from heater core. These pipes are located up the fire wall (easier access is from the passenger side). If pipe/pipes are cold (even engine is warm) it means you heater core is plugged and should be flushed. Keep in mind, flushing the whole cooling system is different from flushing heater core.
4) If pipe/pipes are hot/warm, turn off the fan, switch controller to the hot position, wait for 3-4 minutes and turn on the fan. Note if the cold air blows first or warm air blows first but it cools down in 5-10 seconds. If the air blows cold than it is most probably the problem with blend door or blend door actuator.
5) If air blows warm first and then cools down, then while running engine and remaining the transmission in PARKING position, press on the gas pedal until your engine reaches 3,000 RPM. Check if your heater blows warm/hot air. If it does, then your water pump does not work properly and should be replaced. If the air still cold, I would suggest flushing the heater core.

Oct 17, 2009 | 1998 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

Heater not working


First you have to identify what causes the problem.
To do this you have to:
1) When engine is cold check the level of coolant. If it is low fill it up.
2) Start engine and check if engine reaches regular temperature. If your engine is not heated enough it means your thermostat does not work properly and should be replaced.
3) If engine temperature is normal, then check the temperature of pipes that go to/from heater core. These pipes are located up the fire wall (easier access is from the passenger side). If pipe/pipes are cold (even engine is warm) it means you heater core is plugged and should be flushed. Keep in mind, flushing the whole cooling system is different from flushing heater core.
4) If pipe/pipes are hot/warm, turn off the fan, switch controller to the hot position, wait for 3-4 minutes and turn on the fan. Note if the cold air blows first or warm air blows first but it cools down in 5-10 seconds. If the air blows cold than it is most probably the problem with blend door or blend door actuator.
5) If air blows warm first and then cools down, then while running engine and remaining the transmission in PARKING position, press on the gas pedal until your engine reaches 3,000 RPM. Check if your heater blows warm/hot air. If it does, then your water pump does not work properly and should be replaced. If the air still cold, I would suggest flushing the heater core.

Oct 17, 2009 | 1998 Ford Taurus

2 Answers

2000 Lincoln Ls Heater blowing cool air


You also could have air in your coolant system. You can't just add coolant on these models after you drain the system or let it run low on coolant. The degas bottles on these models also have a flaw, where they crack along a seam. Sometimes coolant will leak, sometimes not, depending on how high the crack is on the bottle. But what it is guaranteed to do is allow air into your system, which can cause havoc with overheating (air surrounds the thermostat so it doesn't open) and keep coolant from flowing, particularly through the highest point in the system: the heater core. There is a heater core bleeder valve attached to a line near the top of the degas bottle (next to the expension line up top) with a plastic, flathead srewdriver face. Turn the heat on high and run the system at idle for 5 minutes. Then open the valve and keep it open until a steady stream of coolant comes out. (It's like bleeding your brakes.) That will clear any air from the system and at least give you peace of mind that this is not your problem. Then run the motor at 2000 rpms, with the heat still on high, for about 5 minutes or until hot air starts coming out. Release the bleeder valve again until a steady stream comes out. Then let the system cool and check your coolant level and fill as needed. I'd pull the degas bottle and inspect it...should have been a recall.

Dec 13, 2008 | 2000 Lincoln LS

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