Question about 2002 GMC Yukon XL

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I am replacing front brake lines on a 2002 GMC Yukon XL 1500. How do I reconnect the lines to the brake control module--which lines go where?

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  • Dave Strasinger
    Dave Strasinger Nov 16, 2010

    Thanks for your reply fordexpert, but I'm pretty far down that path. I've already disconnected the corroded lines and ran four new front brake lines. I am ready to connect them to the Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV), after which I'll connect the other ends to where they go. The problem is, I cannot see over the frame to tell which of the four brake lines goes to which port on the BPMV, and the BPMV is not marked (I guess the mfg thought that would make it too easy). I have seen numerous schematics, but none, including those on PDFOO (and every other PDF site for that matter) show which brake lines connect to which port. In fact, you either get a schematic of the brake lines, or of the BPMV, but not both in the same drawing, and if they are there together, you can't tell which lines go where, because the blow-up doesn't clearly show it. All fittings are the same size. There are five ports total, the top right of which runs to the back (I did not disconnect this one). The other four all go to the front. Two route directly to each front caliper (left and right), and two route to the brake master cylinder. I even tried looking underneath another Yukon XL and a Suburban of the same year, but I can't see over the frame in order to easily tell which lines are running where, even with a mechanics mirror. I asked the local GM dealer, but the Service Mgr told me that information was in the mechanics laptop computer (he wouldn't get me a mechanic to answer the question, of course...) I know the answer is out there...I just need to know: Right front caliper to top right BPMV port? Left front caliper to top left BPMV port? Forward master cylinder port to lower left BPMV port? Rear master cylinder port to lower right BPMV port? Hard to believe this is such an industry secret--GM must be making a killing here...

  • Dave Strasinger
    Dave Strasinger Nov 17, 2010

    Hi daylongdrive, thank you for your reply. All of the lines and connectors are the right size...the problem is, I am not sure which front brake lines to screw into which ports on the brake pressure modulator valve. Five brake lines go into the thing: One goes to the rear, and four go to the front (two to RF

  • Dave Strasinger
    Dave Strasinger Nov 19, 2010

    Thank you, sir--I appreciate your kindness and the completeness of your response. This has been a frustrating experience. I am angry that all four of my brake lines have completed rusted in three spots after just 8 years. I was faced with $850 - $1,100 or so at the dealer to replace all four lines, so I took matters into my own hands. I should have taken stronger measures to identify the lines, such as tagging them when I pulled them (since I couldn't see over the frame), but the challenges of working out in the cold and dark predicated the quickest approach. I did finally come across some information on exactly what lines went where--someone else had recently gone through the same ordeal and replied via another site that the BPMV connections are as follows: Upper left port to left front caliper, upper middle port to right fron caliper, lower left port to master cylinder secondary, and lower right to master cylinder primary. The upper right port goes to the rear brakes, which I did not remove. Next step is to hook them all up and bleed them out, as you suggested. Thanks again for your feedback--I'm very appreciative!



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It's possible that you don't have the correct replacemant lines. conpare the new lines to the old ones to be sure the threads and type of end are the same. If you line them up straight enough they should start with your fingers and screw in a ways. An open end wrench should work to tighten them but you may need to remove the bolts holding the unit on to get room to turn the wrench ( only move ti enough to get it done as you might break other lines. but if they do they needed changed anyway. It seems alot of GM's are rusting the lines near and at the unit. A crows foot line wrench can be gotton at a discount tool dealer like harbor frieght, but you have to buy a set. You can put the crows foot on the line and then turn it with a 3/8 extenstion. Regular mechanics that do this work all the time have these tools and you might consider having a pro do the work as bleeding the repaired system can be diffacult without all the right tools.

Posted on Nov 16, 2010

  • John P Schwantes Jr Nov 17, 2010

    OK I change them one at a time so this won't happen but your right we should get it right, Makes sense the the master will go in the top the front brakes next and the back brakes last, But let me cheak my computer to see if it'll say. It doesn't but you say the line going to the rear wheels is known.. three across the top and two at the bottom? the rear line is at one end of the top? the line in the bottom is the one from the small resivoir of the master cyclinder and the other bottom is the big resivoir of the master cyclinder the two that's left are the frount brakes and it mkes sensese it's left and riight. now bleed it out . fill the master cyclinder and loosen the line at the place you put the big resiviove to the master. Hopefully you can put the fluild in so that it's only in the big res and none in the little. as it comes out you know at lease this one is known. put a peice of tape around it at the controller and mark it in case were wrong. loose the ones you think are the front lines. the fluild shoul come out of both, loosen the one for the rear and it might have some but it won't keep put fluild in the rear system and check to see if this is right and mark them as you figure them out. tighten everthing up. You can do this with everything hanging out ( bracket removed from the frame) go to the rear wheels and open the bleeder bolts and after awhile they'll start dripping. once one dripps close it and wait for the other one (do this with the lid of the master off) once their both been dripping tighten them up, now do the frount, one at a time ( yeath this takes a long time but it works good ) 1/2 hour. then do the other front wheel making sure as this is happening that it has pleanty of fluild in the master. Once they've all dripped close them or they did'nt and your ready to go to the next step. with all the lines tight and the bleeders closed, pump the brake pedal but don't go all the way to the floor. make sure you let the pedel come up all the way to the top on each stroke. If the pedel goes down very little and the pedal feels firm. you can test to see if it's working OK start the engine and make sure it's inpark and it's free to go forward or back. with it running make sure the brake is still firm and nothings leaking. Pump the brake pedal several times to be sure. even if its plumbed up wrong it still going to work just not right, in an ABS stop. if it's still going to the flooror spongly with the engine off and the key off you'll need to bleed some more. right rear open push pedal down hold clse bleeder pump serveral times and then open push down and do it till only fluild comes out. You may go though a whole quart to get this done. next wheel till they all squirt fluid. then try it again. if it's good try leting the car move just some and stop it hard does it feel like they all worked? if it does go just a little faster and if it feels good drive it around but till you know what it's going to do don't trust it take it to where you can stop it on grave and see which wheels at working and see the ABS work. pull up at 10 mph orso and stand on the pedal it should shutter and stop and sling gravel, all the wheels should have dug some and the ABS light should come on only as sliding and then go right back out. if *** does your right. if it stays on switch the two lies you picked as the front braeks and try again.


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  • GMC Master
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The fittings can be different sizes so you don't mix up the lines. For the most part the replacement lines are shaped to fit against the frame and will line up with the proper hole when you use the mounting clips that came on the truck.

If you have not already pulled the lines it helps to take a Digital or Polaroid photo before you start. There is a free website which has articles about your lines and the module.

If you are making your own line the modern fitting is now double Inverted and it takes a different bending head than the older models used. Also if you are making your own line use the same diameter AND the most expensive part is the module. Whether store bought or home made, its best to start fitting the line at the module first.

You do not want to strip the expensive part. Attach the line to the module first so you can fight with the cheap to replace(secondary brake line) end last.

Posted on Nov 14, 2010

  • fordexpert Nov 16, 2010

    Although you looked at complete vehicles to copy, you might find a wreck in Salvage and be able to see it better. Sometimes the fenders and front clips are gone and the lines are still in sight. A extended cab pickup may have the same brakes and since you are working on the front end it would not matter whats behind the cab.

  • fordexpert Nov 20, 2010

    I did not know if you serviced your rear brakeline, but if you have not it may be rusted as well. What I found on an older truck was that the transmission lines and the fuellines were starting to go.

    The failure of the trans lines on automatics would only show up after the trans was trashed or if you observed a puddle of fluid in time. When I was bending my old brakelines to go into the trashbag it was odd that the strength of the line varied so much. Wonder if there should be a recall on them.



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