Question about Volkswagen Golf
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Golf mk4 ignition wiring
941-50 or -500 (not sure if it is 50 of 500)
You'll need to get the following wiring loom schemmatics (for the AUM 1.8Litre 150bhp, Turbo, 5spd Manual Engine) to figure out the correct sequence of events.
Make sure that you give your chassis number to the dealer first of all to ensure you have the correct diagrams as those supplied by me may not be chassis specific for your car.
Posted on Jan 19, 2009
Hello patrick_toal, and thank you for choosing fixya.com. Since you replaced the injectors, it sounds like the timing belt/chain may need replaced. My 87 buick was doing that very thing. Also, have your lifter rods checked. You may have a bent or broken one. You will usually hear a pinging or knocking sound if one is bent or broken, so if your not, than they are probably sitll good, but if your timing belt or chain (whichever is equipped) is wearing out (if chain, the gear is probably wearing out, and if belt, the belt is probably beginning to strip). If this is the issue, then you will want to get it fixed, or it can cause more damage, such as mentioned above, bend or broken rods.
Now, before you do any of that, just in the effort to save you time, and money; change the air filter, and the fuel filter, and if you haven't already, the tranny fluid and oil (the filters for these will be replaced automatically, as they are part of the fluid change process).
Some other things that may cause this are as follows: First however, consider having a diagnostics test done on the car. Go to your (a) mechanic, or a local auto parts store and request (if available) to have a diagnostics test done. It should only take about 5-10 minutes at a auto parts store, and if anything is wrong with the car, the test will reveal such codes for such faults, and they representative will be able to tell you what each code represents and what parts need repaired/replaced.
Fuel Injected Engine:
coil wire/spark plug wires/spark plugs
coil pack(s)/modular <--coil pack(s) will be screwed to modular
fuel filter/air filter
Distributor/Cap/Rotor <-- consider switching to an EFI Distributor as they do not have points
Also, have the alternator and batter tested for safe measure. Check all fuses. If and when you have a diagnostics test done, write down all the codes and the parts/components for each they represent. Have the codes cleared. Replace parts starting with the least expensive first, and if the issue persists, move up the list.
The above is what I do for all my vechicle. When I first purchase a vehicle, the first thing I do is a complete tune up which includes oil/tranny fluid and filter change, air and fuel filters, new plugs, wires and if carburated, cap and rotor. The chances of the coil pack (if fuel injected) and or modular being faulty are very low, but still possible, so consider them as well.
I hope this information is useful to you, and helps you get your car running smoothly again. I thank you for choosing fixya.com for your car repair solutions. NOTE: If this is a diesel (as diesels have injectors as well) it's best to take it to a diesel mechanic (or if under warranty still, the dealership of purchase, or VW service dealer).
Again, thank you, and please let me know if there is anything I can do to assist you further in getting your car up and running right again.
Posted on Apr 04, 2009
The system will erase the fault code when the system senses that a component is functioning within three starting cycles. Even if you replaced the cam sensor three times it will store the same code if the wire harness or connector has is not supplying data from the magnetic pickup to the ECU. Until you have isolated why it doesn't read the sensor you'll be stuck with a no start situation.
Posted on Apr 14, 2010
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