No, but the ignition control module will. Follow the spark plug wires from the engine to where they come together on what appears to look like the top of a distributor.This is VW's solid state (i.e. hermetically sealed, no moving parts) replacement for a distributor.They rarely go bad except under conditions of high resistance, i.e. module is loose, bad plug wires, burnt or improperly gaped spark plugs), which doesn't help you now.
But before you go buying parts, if you have an Advance Auto Parts, Pep Boys, or another auto parts supply chain, driving a different vehicle, go and pick up an "Actron OBDII" scanner (plan on keeping this it is you best tool even if you are just asking questions). Under the driver's side dash, using the steering wheel a center line, just to the left of center (toward the door) you should see a purple port that is the same shape as the plug on the OBDII scanner plug in and follow the direction that came with it and get back to me. Using the scanner does not require turning the VW on, which I recommend that you don't until this is sorted out. What you are being told is a misfire is a "no fire", it is the vernacular from the distributor (points and condenser) days. Solid state units work or don't work, rarely if ever is there any middle ground.
Also, FYI, you have a timing belt not a timing chain. Since about 1995/96 all VW have a timing sensor to detect if the timing is off (which there is a very slim possibility that it is the timing belt). So for arguments sake let's say the P-Codes from the scanner don't reflect the ignition system, do not turn your car on and get it towed to a VW certified mechanic (not the local Ford guy that works on 1-2 VW's a year) and have the timing belt inspected.If you have never changed one, this is not the make of vehicle to start with.VW's have zero-tolerance motors, better known as interference motors, i.e., broken timing belt = a new long block. Long block means a new/re-manufactured/used motor with heads and a short block means a new/re-manufactured/used motor without heads. And don't let that scare you away from VW's they are great cars and that close tolerance is what gives their motors higher compression and better gas mileage in a smaller motor.
Broken Timing Belt
"Look in your glove box. If you open the shrink-wrapped booklet that says Owner's Manual, you'll see you should have changed your timing belt 20,000 miles ago."
Cost: $1,500 to $3,500
The lowdown: There are two kinds of engines: interference engines and non-interference engines. Or, as we refer to the interference engines in the trade, motor wreckers.
An interference engine is actually a more modern engine design, where the valves open wider and into the path of the upcoming piston. This lets the engine breathe better, giving it more power and better fuel efficiency. It all works fine as long as your timing works fine - when the valves are open, the piston is down, and when the piston comes up, the valves are closed and out of the way. If your timing belt breaks or jumps a notch on an interference engine, the piston smashes the valves, and you need a valve job ... at least. That's why it's crucial to change the timing belt at the recommended interval, before it gets anywhere near the point of breaking.
On a non-interference engine, a broken timing belt will leave you stranded, but it won't crush your valves. You can ignore the timing belt change on one of those engines if you don't mind getting stuck. On an interference engine, you're rolling the dice on a large boat payment for your mechanic.
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