Question about 2000 Ford Taurus
Go to the fuel pump connector and see if there is power there and start all over from that point.
Posted on Nov 12, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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Jan 24, 2013 | Cars & Trucks
Nov 01, 2012 | Dodge Cars & Trucks
First thing to check is turn
your key on and look for a amber light that say check engine. Make sure that
light come on and go out after about 3 to 15 sec with the key in on position. If
you don't have the light on the most likely your car computer do not get power
recheck the fuses and fusible link.
If you have the light on then
listen to the fuel pump running when you turn the car on, it should run for
about 3 sec. and turn off. If you don't hear the sound of the fuel pump then it
would be your fuel pump or relay. obd2 scanner tool
May 09, 2012 | Cars & Trucks
Apr 02, 2012 | Jeep Cherokee Cars & Trucks
Feb 03, 2012 | Cars & Trucks
Your problem may be one of the following:
First check or just replace the fuel filter. Usually located under the car in front of the rear axle, drivers side.
Next, the fuel pump may be worn out. Usually they just stop working (running).
Next, check the fuel pressure regulator. Usually located on the front fuel rail, drivers side.
Is the vacuum line attached? Not leaking or rotted?
Also, do you smell a strong fuel odor when it won't start? May be one or more stuck-open injectors, or the coil pack is bad.
Checking these in the order listed will more than likely fix your problem.
The clicking noise indicates the battery can no longer run the starter, which also means the fuel pump won't run either.
It could be a fuel issue. How old is the fuel filter? Can you hear the pump run for a few seconds when you turn the key on? Try turning the key to ON without trying to start engine three times waiting for the pump to stop running each time. Then try to start the engine. If it starts, Its a form of Vapor lock caused by the extreme heat we have had lately, and a weak fuel pump.
If none of this works, try a new fuel filter first. From there have someone check the fuel pressure regulator and then the pump. If you are in need of a new pump, take my word for it and spend the money to get one from a Dealer, and not from your favorite parts store. Most parts store parts are made in China and they are JUNK.
Aug 27, 2011 | 1999 Chrysler 300M
Starting Problem # 1: Engine Won't Crank At All
Scenario: You turn the key, but nothing happens: And by nothing, we mean there is no dash light, no sound, nada. The first thing you should do in this case is to pop the hood and check the battery. Either the battery is completely dead or there's a wiring problem in the starting system. Try jump-starting the battery. If that doesn't work, you'll probably have to call for assistance.
Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a rapid clicking sound, and the dash lights dim. This is your classic low-battery symptom. Jump-starting the battery should get the engine to start.However, if you keep experiencing this problem, you could have a bad battery or alternator, or it could be something as simple as a loose alternator belt. Take your car to a mechanic just as soon as you can.
Scenario: When you turn the key, the lights on the dash come on, but you don't hear anything. Make sure you have the shift selector all the way in park. Move it out of park and then back, or try starting it with the shifter in neutral. If your car has a manual transmission, make sure you have the clutch pressed all the way to the floor. If that doesn't help, you can try jump-starting the battery, but it probably won't work. There's a good chance your car has a bad starter or a problem in the starting circuit. That could mean a problem in the ignition switch, neutral safety switch or starter solenoid.
Scenario: The dash lights come on when you turn the key, and then go right out, and the engine doesn't crank when you turn the key to start, But, the lights slowly come back on when you release the key. This is another classic: the bad battery connection. When you turn the key to start, the starter pulls so much current that it breaks the connection. Then, when you release the key, the connection slowly comes back. The connection provides enough power to turn the dash lights on, but not enough to crank the starter. Cleaning and tightening the battery terminals may fix this problem.
Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a single, hard clunk. Turn the headlights on and try again. Do the lights dim slightly when you turn the key? If so, you probably have a bad starter or a seized engine. If the headlights don't dim at all, or just barely dim, there may be a connection problem between the starter solenoid and the starter itself.
Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a loud, scraping or grinding sound like metal on metal. The starter drive is bad, or the ring gear on the flywheel damaged, or both. You may get the starter to engage if you try turning the key a couple of times, but let go of the key right away if you hear the noise again. If the car does start, you should drive it right over to local repair shop and have the problem fixed.
Starting Problem #2: Engine Cranks but It Won't Start
Scenario: The engine seems to crank normally, but the engine doesn't even sound as if it's trying to start. Is there gas in the tank? Gas gauges are notoriously inaccurate. If you have to move your head to one side to get the needle to move off empty, try adding some gas to the tank.
Scenario: When you first turn the key on, you don't hear the fuel pump run. In cars with electronic fuel injection, you should hear a light hum a few seconds from around the fuel tank. That's the electric fuel pump running. If you don't hear the fuel pump run for a couple seconds when you first turn the key on, try cranking the engine until the oil light goes out. That may start the pump running and allow the engine to start.
Scenario: The engine cranks normally, and it sounds like it wants to start, but it won't. You may have flooded the engine. Hold the gas floor and try again. (Let the gas pedal up when it finally starts). If it's raining out, the ignition system may be wet.
Scenario: The engine cranks unevenly in a repetitive-sounding pattern. You may have a bad timing chain or timing belt. Call a tow truck and have it towed to the repair shop.
Starting Problem # 3: Engine Starts but It Shuts Off
Scenario: The engine starts right up, but shuts off as soon as you release the key. This is the classic symptom of a bad ignition switch. A new switch should fix it.
Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but when you put the transmission in gear, the car lurches and the engine shuts off. The converter clutch in the transmission torque converter probably is engaging when it shouldn't. On some cars, you can bypass this by disconnecting the torque converter clutch solenoid; but unless you know which wire to pull, forget about it. Call for assistance.
Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but seems to idle slowly and stalls when you come to a stop. This probably is a fast idle problem. When the engine is cold, it's supposed to idle a little faster than normal to keep the engine running. You may be able to drive using two feet until the engine warms up: one on the gas to hold the idle up a little and the other for the brake. However, don't keep driving it this way. Take your car to your repair shop just as soon as you
Jul 21, 2011 | 1996 Pontiac Grand Am
Jun 16, 2011 | Buick LeSabre Cars & Trucks
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