Question about Daihatsu Charade
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
You need to check the throttle stop cushion is making contact. The engine will hunt if you have air in the throttlebody coolant pipes, if the coolant sensor is faulty or if the TPS isn't calibrated.
Posted on Sep 04, 2008
SOURCE: 1988 daihatsu charade carburetor
If we are talking the three cylinder CB23 engine the mixture screw is hard to get to and has an anti tamper shroud to stop prying fingers.
The Aisan carby is pretty reliable and problems with them on these engines is usually due to improper vacuum hose connections, or improperly adjusted idle, fast idle and deceleration screws.
A/F ratio is around the standard 14.7, but being a carby you will not get consistent mixtures because the jets sizes are fixed . On an EFI engine you can control the fuel flow, but not so with jets.
If you do decide to give your carby a birthday make sure you only buy the Daihatsu genuine, because the after market units have issues with quality. The minor rebuild kit part No 0421287704000 and the major overhaul kit with plunger, needles, gaskets, clips, etc is part No 0421187729000.
If it was me I'd be concentrating on the hoses, the PCV valve, contact points in the dizzy and better spark plugs first. If you want much better idling and a bit better pull get an electronic dizzy and coil from a G200 series Charade.
Posted on Sep 07, 2008
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Firing Order: 1 - 2 - 3
Base Ignition Timing
Note: With the T terminal Shorted.5 +/- 2 deg BTDC
Ignition timing should be checked and adjusted, if necessary whenever spark plugs are replaced or any distributor maintenance is done. Ignition timing should be 3-7°BTDC at 750-850 RPM with the engine check connector terminal 11 (brown) shorted, Fig. 1. The engine check connector is located near the top of the transaxle.
Posted on Jan 21, 2009
You won't need to change the jets. We have had the Cb60 pumping 75- 90kW on the stock carby. Are you trying to increase performance there are better ways: e.g. RHF5 series turbo, lightened flywheel (4.5kg) with Mazda 121 clutch plate and 1600lb pressure plate. Swap in a G202 electronic dizzy& coil, and replace vacuum advance diaphragm.
Carby hat looks like this:
Posted on Feb 18, 2009
The location of the pump is on the left hand side of the engine when standing at the front of the car.
You will see (if you have aircon) two belts.
If you stand to the side of the car to look at the belts.
From memory the inner one (closest to the engine) drives the aircon compressor.
The outer one drives the water pump, you will see the pump belt wheel towards the back of the engine.
Getting into the pump is a bit tricky.
I basically unbolted the engine mount from the body which then allowed me to jack up the engine as I needed it to give me space to unbolt everything until the 3 water pump bolts can be seen.
Just make sure you know which bolts go back where.
From memory there were about 20 bolts to undo before I got to the water pump.
Aircon compressor bracket bolt I only loosened them from the engine not fully removed, the same with the alternator I only removed the adjusting bolt to remove the belt.
Oh I just thought of something to do before you remove the tension on the belts... loosen slightly the 4 small bolts that are on the wheel that bolts onto the water pump.
I think the only size sockets and spanners I used were 10, 12, 14 & 17.
It took me around 2 hours to get it all undone, and close to the same to put it all back together with the new pump.
It was kinda straight forward as you can see what you need to unbolt because you know what bit you need to get into.
I hope this helps a little, I am not sure if it is clear in the way I have written it. But feel free to ask any questions.
Posted on Mar 11, 2009
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