Question about 1996 Toyota RAV4

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I engaged diff lock then switched it off but the warning sound kept on ringing i drove for 15km when ascendind it had to speed when i reached my destination i saw some smoke by the diff and oil dripping what could be the problem

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  • 59 Answers

The diff lock stocked

Posted on Nov 12, 2010

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What can be the fault if the engine cut out and there is a heavy oil smell coming from engine


The engine seems to be eating up oil. The piston rings may be busted. You may have to have a mechanic check it out for you.

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Center differential


IF you are in constant 4wd then you will not have a centre diff unless you have an AWD. The difference is that AWD transfer cases have a centre diff that allows different road speeds between the front and rear diffs as in going over speed bumps and dips ion the road It is the same operation in the front and rear diffs that allow one wheel to go faster than the other when cornering. However in 4wd drive there is no diff action in the transfer case and both front and rear axles drive at the same speed regardless of speed bumps and dips in the road . This action produces what is known as torque wind up which results in the handling characteristics. This torque wind up places stress on all the drive line train and results in failures such as .that you describe.. This wind up is not noticeable when driving on loose surfaces slippery surfaces or in mud as it is allowed to escape when the wheels spin . If you have an AWD with diff lock capabilities then check that the diff lock is operating correctly

Apr 20, 2014 | Jeep Cherokee Cars & Trucks

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Hilux difflock


change what isnt working one at a tiome..

Jan 01, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

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I was driving my 1996 Subaru Sportswagon manual 100km/h in 4th gear, bringing the rpm to about 5,500 or so. It was a mere test, comparing the diff of the Sportswagon and a Datsun I drove earlier that day....


If you lost power steering and all those lights came on, then what you experienced was the engine stalling.
If the car runs well aside from this single incident, then I wouldn't suggest that anything is necessarily wrong. You may have accidentally stalled it perhaps?

Nov 18, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Rear diff jolting and making a loud sound with alittle of grindin


What you were told is correct...the rear differential is going out; most definitely.

It is a safety hazard to continue driving the vehicle in that condition...could lock up while driving down the freeway - not a pretty site.

Used diff. anywhere from $400 to $600...invest in a Haynes/Chiltons manual and replace the unit yourself.

Mike...

Nov 20, 2009 | 2001 Chevrolet Camaro

1 Answer

Landrover td5 abs light and traction control light illuminating periodically it seems to have lost power and is making a whirring noise


Sounds like a faulty Diff Lock switch to me.
Most of the D2 models till late 03 model year use a version of firmware on the SLABS ECU that when diff-lock is detected puts the ABS and Traction Control systems into a lower response mode. Late model vehicles came with factory fit diff-lock linkages as a option, and the firmware was revised to allow this to operate in conjunction with the traction control.
Therefore ABS and TC illuminating (but with no HDC) means your TC/ABS is in the lower performing mode, and your diff-lock may be in, but more likely the £12 switch has broken, and needs replacing. It's a bugger of a job, and can be done from underneath the vehicle (did mine this way) the switch is p/no PRC2911, and just unscrews. It's located just behind the diff-lock stud above where the front prop fits.
Your options are thus:
1) Remove the front prop. Work blind and try and change it by feel alone. Helps if you can clean the area off before too, don't want any rubbish falling in the box! Unplug & Undo the switch, IIRC it's a 12mm head, and a stubby spanner is the tool for the job. Remove, swap the lower nut from the old switch to the new one (important for the length) and put back in. Don't do up too tight, or it may shear off (as my friend did 2 days after I did mine! He kept tightening it...) Pop the connections on and the front prop and the fault should go away. You could also just disconnect the switch if you want. IIRC open circuit is no-diff lock anyway, but if that's not correct then make up a link with some spade connectors and link it out then.
2) Remove the centre console, drill the rivets and attack from above. Same tools needed, just you can see what you're doing.
I favoured Option 1. YMMV!

Your whirring noise and loss of power may indicate the diff-lock is engaging occasionally and may indicate damage to the transfer box.

Oct 01, 2009 | 1999 Land Rover Discovery

3 Answers

2007 GMC - Tight Turn Problem


Do you have the front hubs disengaged and the shift lever in 2wheel drive. If this is the case, the tyres will fight against each other while turning on bitumen.

Aug 04, 2009 | 2004 GMC Envoy

1 Answer

Problem with my cruise control and ABS light on 03 Explorer


Anti-Lock Control —Vehicles Built After 03/2002 The 3-channel anti-lock brake system consists of the following components:
  • front wheel speed sensors
  • front wheel speed sensor rings
  • hydraulic control unit (HCU)
  • Anti-lock brake control module (ECU)
  • rear wheel speed sensor
  • rear wheel speed sensor rings
  • yellow anti-lock brake warning indicator
The 4-channel anti-lock brake system with traction control and stability assist system consists of the following components:
  • active brake booster with integral solenoid
  • brake booster release switch
  • front wheel speed sensors
  • front wheel speed sensor rings
  • hydraulic control unit (HCU)
  • stability assist module (ECU)
  • stability assist event indicator
  • lateral accelerometer
  • longitudinal accelerometer (4x4)
  • rear wheel speed sensors
  • rear wheel speed sensor rings
  • steering wheel position sensor
  • yaw rate sensor
  • yellow anti-lock brake warning indicator
  • brake pressure transducer
  • traction control switch
---------------------------------------------------------------------
I suspect the abs issue is causing the speed control not to work if it happened at the same time the cruise control stopped working. When the yellow ABS light comes on, it means the ABS is dactivated. You may have a faulty accelerometer which senses acceleration and yaw (side to side lean). I have not seen a bad one but you said it is sensitive to acceleration.
I would unplug it and see what happens. The connector should have a small tab to depress so you can pull the connector out.
Here is where it is:

Accelerometer Removal and Installation
  1. NOTE: The accelerometer is located under the center, rear passenger seat carpet. (I think you have to remove seat for access).
    Cut the carpeting along the perforations.
  1. Disconnect the electrical connector.
  1. Remove the nuts and remove the accelerometer.
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Have dealer hook up tester and pull fault codes if you can't find an easy solution.
Some background info
  • A malfunction in the anti-lock brake system will cause the anti-lock brake control module to shut off or inhibit the system. However, normal power-assisted braking remains.
  • Malfunctions are indicated by the yellow ABS warning indicator in the instrument cluster.
  • The anti-lock brake system is self-monitoring. When the ignition switch is turned to the RUN position, the anti-lock brake control module will carry out a preliminary self-check on the anti-lock electrical system indicated by a three-second illumination of the yellow ABS warning indicator in the instrument cluster.
  • During vehicle operation, including normal and anti-lock braking, the anti-lock brake control module monitors all electrical anti-lock functions and some hydraulic operations.
  • Each time the vehicle is driven, as soon as vehicle speed reaches approximately 20 km/h (12mph), the anti-lock brake control module turns on the pump motor for approximately one-half second. At this time, a mechanical noise may be heard. This is a normal function of the self-check by the anti-lock brake control module.
  • Pedal pulsation coupled with noise while braking on loose gravel, bumps, wet or snowy roads is normal and indicates correct functioning of the anti-lock brake system.
  • Warning Lamp Indicator
    The anti-lock brake system (ABS) uses the yellow ABS warning indicator to alert the driver of a malfunctions in the ABS.
    The yellow ABS warning indicator will come on to warn the driver that the ABS has been turned off due to a symptom that exists in the ABS. Normal power assist braking remains but wheels can lock during a panic stop while the yellow ABS warning indicator is illuminated.

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    Please report back, I am curious if that is what it is. Good luck

    Mar 03, 2009 | 2003 Ford Explorer

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