I was told that it was time to replace my timing belt so I figured I better get it done before it breaks. This mechanic ordered a timing belt and forgot to order the tensioner I told him you have to order the kit because it doesn't come all together, So finally he got it after a week. Then he tells me I should replace the water pump at the same time so I said fine. When he was finally done I went to get it and drove about 3 miles and it overheated all the way as far as the needle on the guage could go. I had to have the car towed back. He said he forgot to fill it up with antifreeze and water. I was so angry. Now ever since I had this work done my car has not been running right. When it's cold it's fine but after about 10 minutes of driving it starts acting strangely. When I stop the idle goes up and down, when I accelerate it's hard to get it going smoothly, it like chokes up and I have to shift to 2nd right away to get it going. The temp guage is about 1/3 of the way from the cold side but if I stop and lift up the hood it is so hot you can't even touch the radiator hoses. This is not normal. What do you think? Is something wrong with the fan or cooling system or maybe plugged up air lines or what? Please help!
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Re: 95 Honda Passport running very poorly
There is a very good chance that driving your car with no coolant has caused at the very least a head gasket issue, if nothing worse (warped head or block etc...)
If there is an air lock in the cooling system and it sits around the coolant sensor then the gauge will register a low temperature because the air lock is not as hot as the actual coolant.
You need to get an independant report on the damage and then present it to the mechanic who carried out the initial belt and pump replacement, because the cost of the repair is down to him, be it a new head gasket or a replacement engine.
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These are notorious for intake leaks. If you can't find any vacuum leaks, verify the timing belt installation is correct. The timing marks on these are actually set up for having #2 on tdc, instead of #1, and the belts, and pulleys are marked accordingly. It's nearly impossible to set it up on #1 due to valve spring tension trying to rotate the cams. That's where I would start. The timing can be off one or two teeth without noticeable running issues. But likely you will get a check engine light with fuel trim codes like you have. Good luck!
I say the dealer you purchased it from probably knows it is near time to replace if not already over. I recommend you take advantage of the free replacement. It is much better to change a little early than to let it go until it breaks. Some engines can be severely damaged if the belt breaks while they are running. At the very least, when it breaks the engine is dead until it is fixed.
honda DOHC and SOHC motors have "zero tolerance" motors, this means if they "jump timing" they need to be inspected for head/valve damage, have this done before spending money on replacing the timing belt
Try resetting computer and unplugging O2 sensor, and see what happens, if fine replace sensor. Ther are only so many things that can cause a rich condition, excess fuel pressure, EGR valve leaking exhaust into intake when it should be closed, no vacuum to fuel pressure regulator or ruptured fuel pressure regulator diaphram, no vaccum to MAP sensor, Air or Coolant temp senosr reading cold when engine is hot. Your mechainc shold be able to eliminate all these.
you need to re-do you timing belt and make sure the cam is aligned, there will be an arrow on the cam and another arrow for you to line up to, its called TDC (top dead center)..once thats lined up you can put the belt back and your timing should be better
The crankshaft should have the timing mark on the crank pulley (Notch in the outer edge of the pulley near the keyway) It should align with the timing mark on the oil pump. (With the keway turned to about the 3 O'clock position.)
Align the marks on the camshaft timing pulleys with the corresponding dots on the front plate.
If you are installing a new belt, it should have 2 solid white lines printed on it that you would align with the timing marks on the cams and a dotted white line to align with the timing mark on the crank.
It makes a difference which way you put the belt on. (Which edge faces the front of the engine.) Most, but not all brands of belts have arrows and the word "FRONT" on them to tell you which edge of the belt shoud face the front of the motor. If there is no mark to tell you which edge is front, the letters on the belt must be able to be read correctly as viewed from the front of the vehicle.
ATTENTION!! Do not run the engine if you do not want to have to buy an engine!! I just solved this problem with my own 95 Rodeo the problem you are having is common on 95 rodeo with 3.2 L engine. Failure of the hydralic timing belt tensioner will allow the tensioner pulley to knock against the top of the tensioner unit ( inside timing cover lower left side of crank pulley little cylinder looking part ) held in by 2 bolts when you take it off if you can depress the button its bad . Dealer has part for $110.00, so go to auto zone but they dont have it listed for 95 rodeo have them look up timing belt tensioner for 95 honda passport $76.95 takes 2 days VDO (Vendor Order only) not a very hard job have fun dont forget to change the timing belt and water pump for good measure after the complete job is done you should not have to worry about it for another 70,000 miles.have a good day