Jack up your right front side and grab wheel top and bottom and see how much play you have in the joints also spin the tire and see if you hear a growling noise if so would think about changing my torington beering good luck
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Hi Douglas, I'm glad to help. My first suggestion is to get to complete shaft. This way you want have any problems later on. It's not that much more expensive and you'll be glad you did. Below is the procedure for replacing them.
Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. Refer to Hoisting in the Lubrication And Maintenance section of this manual for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
Remove the wheel and tire assembly from the vehicle.
Remove the wave washer Wave Washer from the end of the stub axle
CAUTION: Wheel bearing damage will result if after loosening hub nut, vehicle is rolled on the ground or the weight of the vehicle is allowed to be supported by the tires.
With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub from turning, loosen and remove the stub axle to hub nut.
Remove the disc brake caliper from the steering knuckle. Caliper is removed by first rotating top of caliper away from steering knuckle and then removing bottom of caliper out from under machined abutment on steering knuckle Brake Caliper Mounting To Steering Knuckle
Support disc brake caliper assembly by using a wire hook and suspending it from the strut assembly Correctly Supported Disc Brake CaliperDo not allow the brake caliper assembly to hang by the brake flex hose.
Remove nut attaching outer tie rod end to steering knuckle Removing Tie Rod End Attaching NutNut is to be removed from tie rod end using the following procedure, hold tie rod end stud with a 11/32 socket while loosening and removing nut with a wrench.
Using a pry bar, separate steering knuckle from ball joint stud Separating Ball Joint Stud From Steering KnuckleNote: Use caution when separating ball joint stud from steering knuckle, so ball joint seal does not get cut.NOTE: Care must be taken not to separate the inner C/V joint during this operation. Do not allow driveshaft to hang by inner C/V joint after removing outer C/V Joint from the hub/bearing assembly in steering knuckle, end of driveshaft must be supported.
Support the outer end of the driveshaft assembly. Insert a pry bar between inner tripod joint and transaxle case Disengaging Inner Tripod Joint From Transaxle Pry against inner tripod joint, until tripod joint retaining snap ring is disengaged from transaxle side gear.
Hold inner tripod joint and interconnecting shaft of driveshaft assembly. Remove inner tripod joint from transaxle, by pulling it straight out of transaxle side gear and transaxle oil seal Tripod Joint Removal from TransaxleWhen removing tripod joint, do not let spline or snap ring drag across sealing lip of the transaxle to tripod joint oil seal.
Thoroughly clean spline and oil seal sealing surface, on tripod joint. Lightly lubricate oil seal sealing surface on tripod joint with fresh clean transmission lubricant.
Holding driveshaft assembly by tripod joint and interconnecting shaft, install tripod joint into transaxle side gear as far as possible by hand Tripod Joint Removal from Transaxle
Grasp inner tripod joint an interconnecting shaft. Forcefully push the tripod joint into side gear of transaxle, until snap ring is engaged with transaxle side gear. Test that snap ring is fully engaged with side gear by attempting to remove tripod joint from transaxle by hand. If snap ring is fully engaged with side gear, tripod joint will not be removable by hand.
Clean all debris and moisture out of steering knuckle, in the area were outer C/V joint will be installed into steering knuckle.
Ensure that front of outer C/V joint which fits against the face of the hub and bearing is free of debris and moisture before installing outer C/V joint into hub and bearing assembly Outer C/V Joint Inspection
Install tie rod end into steering knuckle. Start attaching nut onto stud of tie rod end. While holding stud of tie rod end stationary using a 11/32 socket, Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut tighten tie rod end to steering knuckle attaching nut. Then using a crowfoot and 11/32 socket Torquing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut , tighten the tie rod end attaching nut to a torque of 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.)
Install disc brake caliper assembly on steering knuckle. Caliper is installed by first sliding bottom of caliper under abutment on steering knuckle, and then rotating top of caliper against top abutment Brake Caliper Mounting To Steering Knuckle
Install disc brake caliper assembly to steering knuckle attaching bolts Front Disc Brake Caliper Attaching Bolts Tighten the disc brake caliper assembly attaching bolts to a torque of 22 N·m (195 in. lbs.)
Clean all foreign matter from the threads of the outer C/V joint stub axle. Install the washer and stub axle to hub/bearing assembly nut on stub axle and securely tighten nut.
Install front wheel and tire assembly. Install and tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half the required specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.)
I would look at replacing your ball joints and/or tie rod ends, either can cause those symptoms. The balls joints should be check by a professional.
To check your tie rods jack one front side of your car check it, then do the other;
Move the front wheels. Placing your hands on the tire at the 9 and 3
o'clock positions, move the tire back and forth rapidly. A properly
tightened front end will give no signs of excess movement and should
give you the feeling of the entire wheel moving back and forth tight to
the hub. If there is a movement, ask a friend or partner to ascertain
where the movement is coming from. There could be many places that
excess movement in a front end could be coming from. The tie rod ends
are the easiest to check. Generally, if there is movement in the outer
tie rod end, you will see it moving near the ball area where is sits
down into the knuckle of the control arm. Excess movement there will
require replacement of the outer tie rod. As far as movement on the
inner tie rod, place your hand on that while your helper is moving the
tire in the same motion described above. Determine how excessive the
movement is, if any, for an inner tie rod. Some vehicles will give off a
little movement in the rack and pinion. Some vehicles will have what
feels like excess movement, but have pitman arms and idler arms that
will also need to be checked. Those components should only be allowing
side-to-side movement. Take some time and make sure the lower ball joint is not moving. Place
your hands on the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock and try to move it up and
down. Many vehicles nowadays have wheel bearing hub assemblies, and
there should be absolutely no free-play whatsoever. If there is and
the lower ball joint is not moving in the knuckle, chances are there's
movement in the bearing. Some rear-wheel-drive vehicles have a bearing
seated rotor and this can be adjusted to tighten the looseness in a
bearing; however, a little movement in that type of application is
You could have a bad tie rod end, Idler arm, pitman arm, wheel bearing or ball joint. All of these will normally cause a vibration also. Check by jacking the front end one side at a time and moving the tire back and forth on front and back and in and out on top and bottom. Either watch or have someone else watch the steering assembly for movement and where it is. If there is no unusual movement, it is more than likely an alignment problem or tire problem.
Very simple. 1. Remove the front wheel 2. Take the proper size wrench and loosen the nut on the tie rod and rack and pinion 3. Remove the cotter pin from the castle nut where the tie rod goes through the spindle(hub assembly) 4. Remove the castle nut and hit the area where the joint goes through until the shaft comes loose with a hammer 5. spin the outer tie rod off counting the number of spins 6. Reverse this procedure to install. If you need the inner tie rod(inner socket), let me know and I should be able to find a diagram and instructions.
Tie rod ends do not have bushings (ball and socket like your hip). If vibration begins at 50-55 but goes away at slightly higher speed, it could be caused by wheel balance. Once balance has been checked jack up each front wheel and shake them back and forth and check for any loose steering components. If reasonably tight, My guess is that you have a bad hub bearing. If you don't know how to change them, get a manual to guide you (chiltons or haynes are OK for this). Pretty much it is a bolt out bolt in procedure and not terribly difficult except that sometimes the hub is rusted in and is a bear to get out. Need any help with that, just ask. Note...many bad hub bearings show no obvious defects...but can create a strong vibration...just determine which side is noisy and change it. Scrapyard parts are inexpensive and generally fairly reliable as replacements.
Your description leads me to believe that the spindle is bent. This is the piece that the tie rod attaches to near the wheel. Sometimes the tie rod is attached to a piece that attaches to the spindle which is rather intuitive. Just remove the tie rod end, unbolt the arm that attaches to the spindle and replace the arm. In this case the only special tool you'll need is a tie rod seperator.
If the arm is a part of the spindle and cannot be removed easily:
1) Put vehicle in park and safety brake on - chock the rear wheels
2) Lift passenger side front wheel and put on jack stands
3) Remove wheel and have a friend apply brake pressure
4) Loosen hub nut with appropriate socket (22 to 35mm)
You can purchase the socket from your local auto parts store
You'll need a large breaker bar, its torqued to about 100ft-lbs
5) Remove tie rod end with a tie rod/ball joint separator
This can also be purchased at your local auto parts store.
Some spindles are made with tie rod end permanantly attached
If it is removable, remove nut and drive the separator tool
between the tie rod and spindle using a large hammer.
It'll eventually break free from the spindle.
6) Remove the strut with a strut spring compressor tool
WARNING - THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS
This can be purchased at your local auto parts store.
Compress spring before removing lower bolts (2 of them).
The strut may be left on vehicle but the spring must be
7) Remove caliper and break assembly
Loosen the two slide bolts that go through the caliper assembly
Remove caliper and breaks - let it hang by the tubing
8) Detach upper and lower ball joints with seperator tool as in #5
9) Finally remove the hub nut from #4
The spindle should slide off the axle
10) Repair or replace the spindle and put it all back together in
reverse order using new wheel bearings. Pack them with axle
grease if theyr'e not the sealed type.
NOTE: The tie rod end may need to be replaced also. The vehicle will need a front end allignment. Be sure to torque the hub nut to the manufacturers specifications - at least 75ft-lbs. You should probably replace the wheel bearings.