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Your clutch slave cylinder could be bad and leaking,here's a picture of it,it's bolted to the side of transmission,has a bleeder screw on it for bleeding.Normally,your fluid shouldn't be low,here's how to replace.
The bleed nipple will be located on the slave cylinder which is mounted on the side of the transmission. If you like , you can follow the hydraulic line down from the clutch master cylinder and it will go right to it. Also, if you fill the clutch master cylinder and simply pump the clutch pedal up and down with your hand, this system will eventually self-bleed and the pedal will firm up.
Yes, hydraulic--check again--fender side of brake master. Slave is usual cause of leak that eventually causes master reservoir to go dry and start drawing air. Check slave for leak. If leaking, replace slave and bleed system. Make sure to bench-bleed slave before installation by opening bleeder and pouring fluid into line port.
Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
Back off the flare nut on the fluid pipe to free the slave cylinder hose.
Pull off the hose-to-bracket retaining clip and pull the hose from the bracket. Cap the pipe to prevent fluid loss.
Unbolt and remove the slave cylinder.
Installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten the bolt to 12-17 ft. lbs. (16-23 Nm).
No photo, but if you follow the line from the master cylinder for the clutch down to the drivers side of the bellhousing, you will either find a slave unit with a bleed valve (looks like the one they use on brakes) or the line will go right into the bellhousing with another line with a valve on it coming back out right next to it. Check the master for seepage into the passenger compartment at the firewall, check the line and check the slave cylinder for leaks. the only way air can get into the system is if something is leaking and permitting air to get in.
There should be a bleed valve on the slave cylinder but some of them are quite difficult to get to. If the master was empty you need to check the line for leaks and the master and slave cylinders for leakage.
I am totally unfamiliar with the particular setup you have, however I know a bit about clutches, Sifting through what you said, it appears that your clutch is set up too tight. By this I mean that the throwout bearing is always pressing on the release diaphram (or fingers) on the clutch cover. As you drive this is causing the clutch disc to overheat and slip. The repeated bleeding you are doing likely has no effect on this other than that the time you spend bleeding is allowing the clutch assembly to cool off. If the slave cylinder is part of the throwout bearing and is inside the bellhousing you need to remove it and get one that is slightly shorter. If the slave is mounted on the bellhousing and activates a clutch fork that moves the bearing you will need to find a means of backing off the slave adjustment so there is a bit of freeplay between it and the fork. likely since you can drive it you are looking at 1/4" or less play to get it right. My only concern would be that you may have overcentered the fingers on the pressure plate and damaged the return spring. slipping the clutch also has not done good things to the disc either. (like driving down the road with your foot on the brake is not good for brake pads) Good luck with your project !!