Question about 1998 Isuzu Hombre

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My truck does not want to start when it is cold. If you turn the key before it starts to crank you can hear a click and then the lights on the dash come on and then it will turn over. I have had many mechanics check it out but they have no idea. The starter is ok, I think it is not getting electrical power when you turn the key sometimes. When it is warmed up I have no problem starting it in the am. PS I live in Phoenix, Az.

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Your key svitcher is not good chenge it

Posted on Nov 11, 2010

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Light comes on but when you hit start it won't do anything how do I fix this?


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Nov 24, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

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Engine will not turnover


If you are hearing clicks when you turn the key and if you know where the starter is, get under there and tap it with a hammer. Sounds archaic but when they start to go bad they stick. When you turn the key, the starter acts like the old hand crank you see in movies to spin the engine. When you release the key the starter believes it did its job and goes dormant. Anyway, if you hear clicks when you turn the key and if it starts after hitting it that is likely your problem.

Feb 09, 2015 | 2001 Volvo V70 XC

1 Answer

Won't crank hear a click when I turn key.


If battery and connections are good, most likely a failing starter. If you can, verify signal to starter with a test light.

Feb 03, 2014 | Toyota Sequoia Cars & Trucks

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Car will not crank and the timing chain is fine


Well, that's good, but even if the chain was broke, the starter would still be tryiing to start the car. Since your starter wont crank the engine over, your start circuit has a malfunction. Possibly the starter went out, so you need to have that tested for a malfunction. A simple test of part of the circuit is to turn the key to on.. Now your dash warnimg lights (oil, alternator, and check engine light) should be on. Are they on, and your gauges working? If not you have lost power to the ignition switch, so check your battery connections. If the key switch turns the dash on, then turn key to start. Do you hear a click from the engine area? If not, have the starter checked. If you do hear a click, or several clicks, then power from the switch is causing that click, probably at the starter. Turn the headlights on and observe them. Are they bright? If not, charge the battery up. If they are bright, watch them while a helper turns the key to start. If the lights go dim in start, probably a bad starter. If the lights don't dim, it could be a bad connection somewhere, like the battery or starter. Good luck

Jun 27, 2012 | 1999 Buick Century

1 Answer

Electrical problems


Same thing is happening right now on a 2002 Monte Carlo. When the key is simply turned to ON, all of the lights on the dash starts blinking rapidly. When I attempt to turn the car over, there is no CLICK or anything from the engine - nada. Ignition turns and the dash goes dark, as if it wants to TRY to start - but nothing happens.
But, when I press the brake pedal (and the key is just sitting in the ON position), all of the blinking lights stops flashing and just stay lit. Therefore, I changed the brake switch, thinking it might make a huge difference. Didn't really help at all. When the key is turned, you can hear the fuel pump engage and everything seems to be ready to go. But, the car won't start (it will only start when it feels like it)...hit and miss, pretty much.
Does anyone know the TRUE solution to this issue? Does the ignition need to be replaced in order to get this car to crank over

May 05, 2012 | 2000 Chevrolet Monte Carlo

1 Answer

I have a 96 pontiac grand am that doesnt start all the time


Starting Problem # 1: Engine Won't Crank At All

Scenario: You turn the key, but nothing happens: And by nothing, we mean there is no dash light, no sound, nada. The first thing you should do in this case is to pop the hood and check the battery. Either the battery is completely dead or there's a wiring problem in the starting system. Try jump-starting the battery. If that doesn't work, you'll probably have to call for assistance.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a rapid clicking sound, and the dash lights dim. This is your classic low-battery symptom. Jump-starting the battery should get the engine to start.However, if you keep experiencing this problem, you could have a bad battery or alternator, or it could be some­thing as simple as a loose alternator belt. Take your car to a mechanic just as soon as you can.

Scenario: When you turn the key, the lights on the dash come on, but you don't hear anything. Make sure you have the shift selector all the way in park. Move it out of park and then back, or try starting it with the shifter in neutral. If your car has a manual transmission, make sure you have the clutch pressed all the way to the floor. If that doesn't help, you can try jump-starting the battery, but it probably won't work. There's a good chance your car has a bad starter or a problem in the starting circuit. That could mean a prob­lem in the ignition switch, neutral safety switch or starter sole­noid.

Scenario: The dash lights come on when you turn the key, and then go right out, and the engine doesn't crank when you turn the key to start, But, the lights slowly come back on when you release the key. This is another classic: the bad battery connection. When you turn the key to start, the starter pulls so much current that it breaks the connection. Then, when you release the key, the connection slowly comes back. The connection provides enough power to turn the dash lights on, but not enough to crank the starter. Cleaning and tightening the battery terminals may fix this prob­lem.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a single, hard clunk. Turn the headlights on and try again. Do the lights dim slightly when you turn the key? If so, you probably have a bad starter or a seized engine. If the headlights don't dim at all, or just barely dim, there may be a connection problem between the starter solenoid and the starter itself.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a loud, scraping or grinding sound like metal on metal. The starter drive is bad, or the ring gear on the flywheel damaged, or both. You may get the starter to engage if you try turning the key a couple of times, but let go of the key right away if you hear the noise again. If the car does start, you should drive it right over to local repair shop and have the problem fixed.

Starting Problem #2: Engine Cranks but It Won't Start

Scenario: The engine seems to crank normally, but the engine doesn't even sound as if it's trying to start. Is there gas in the tank? Gas gauges are notoriously inaccurate. If you have to move your head to one side to get the needle to move off empty, try adding some gas to the tank.

Scenario: When you first turn the key on, you don't hear the fuel pump run. In cars with electronic fuel injection, you should hear a light hum a few seconds from around the fuel tank. That's the electric fuel pump running. If you don't hear the fuel pump run for a couple seconds when you first turn the key on, try cranking the engine until the oil light goes out. That may start the pump running and allow the engine to start.

Scenario: The engine cranks normally, and it sounds like it wants to start, but it won't. You may have flooded the engine. Hold the gas floor and try again. (Let the gas pedal up when it finally starts). If it's raining out, the ignition system may be wet.

Scenario: The engine cranks unevenly in a repetitive-sounding pattern. You may have a bad timing chain or timing belt. Call a tow truck and have it towed to the repair shop.


Starting Problem # 3: Engine Starts but It Shuts Off

Scenario: The engine starts right up, but shuts off as soon as you release the key. This is the classic symptom of a bad ignition switch. A new switch should fix it.

Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but when you put the transmission in gear, the car lurches and the engine shuts off. The converter clutch in the transmission torque converter probably is engaging when it shouldn't. On some cars, you can bypass this by disconnecting the torque converter clutch solenoid; but unless you know which wire to pull, forget about it. Call for assistance.

Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but seems to idle slowly and stalls when you come to a stop. This probably is a fast idle problem. When the engine is cold, it's supposed to idle a little faster than normal to keep the engine running. You may be able to drive using two feet until the engine warms up: one on the gas to hold the idle up a little and the other for the brake. However, don't keep driving it this way. Take your car to your repair shop just as soon as you

Jul 21, 2011 | 1996 Pontiac Grand Am

2 Answers

My 2004 ford explorer wont start, theft light on dash blinks fast when key is turned on to start. all dash lights come on, just nothing to the starter. hear a clicking under dash fuse box thats it. what...


got a 2004 ford explorer it wont start but it turns over put fuel pump starter evap canister and purge valve it was broke,and a battery fuel filter,tac system and it still wont crank



Mar 27, 2011 | Ford Explorer Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Van will not start cold w/ delayed check eng light


you need a pcm heat it with a hair dryer its located above the engine in on the fire wall in the middle its a black box with vents and wires heat it up and it will start common prob hard to get less than 250 its 95 only the symtoms are cold days turn key get all dash iliminations exeptt check engine light eventually you her the to relays mounted next to your battery start clicking and if you watch your dash the check engine light will eventually flicker and stay on and it will start if you start it with the relays clicking it will sputter because the relay clicking is for your fuel pump and auto shut down relays let me know how it works out chaner101@yahoo.com

Jan 14, 2009 | 1995 Dodge Ram

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