Question about 2006 Toyota Corolla

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I just changed spark plugs in my 2003 Corolla 118000 miles. I think I had a poor contact to one or more ignitors, it ran rough and check engine light came on. I cleaned everything up and engine now runs smooth. I still get codes P1300, P1305, P1310, P1315 which is all four ignitors. I reset the codes and they come straight back. Engine seems to run fine until I apply full throttle power then something cuts the engine. Surely all four ignitors could not have suddenly failed and surely if they had the engine would not run. They are more than $80 each so of course I don't want to buy four new ones unless I know they are faulty. Car was running just fine before this preventative maintenance. Any ideas.

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  • rdyke1947 Nov 11, 2010

    New plugs are NKG BKR5EIX-11 I switched #1 plug back to the original and saw no difference, the same 4 codes set immediately. I read the codes and reset with an Actron CP9125 which I purchased today.

    The car seems to run just fine until I apply strong power at which point it completely cuts out. When I come to a stop and place in park it restarts easily.

    Could I have damaged all of the coils/ignitors. I was careful when I took them out, I used some boot silicone that AutoZone sold me with the plugs, I have since cleaned it all off the plugs and boots but no change. Do these coils become weak after so many miles. I checked grounds to the engine from each of the four connectors, they seem fine.

  • rdyke1947 Nov 11, 2010

    Also there are only 4 codes P1300, P1305, P1310 and P1315,

  • rdyke1947 Nov 11, 2010

    The coils were not replaced they are the original ones, I have owned the car since new and this is the first plug change. Could the coils have been gradually breaking down over the 118000 miles and the movement of removing and replacing them have caused them to degrade. I am puzzled as to why the car runs fine until I apply strong power, its as if there is a cut off switch that activates. Does the computer or whatever its called go to a safety mode with these codes and it shuts down the engine when strong power is applied? By the way its a 2003 not a 2006.
    I checked the grounds with the buzzer on my multimeter they were fine. I will check with the meter for ground and 12v when I can see what I am doing in the morning.

  • rdyke1947 Nov 11, 2010

    I checked the resistance on all four connectors to the center of the Battery negative terminal. On the one ohm range there was no detectable resistance on any connector. I checked the 12v on each and each showed 12v.

    I changed all 4 plugs back to the originals, deleted the codes but as soon as I started the car the warning light came back on just as soon as the air bag light went out.

    Something happened when I first drove the car with the new plugs and I suspect a wet connector. the car started running rough and the warning light on and off several times. By the time I got back to the house (5 minutes or so) the warning light was permanently on. I cleaned and dried the connectors which brought the car to its current state. Runs fine, warning light on, engine cuts out when strong power applied.

    Do I need to spend the $320 on four new coils or do you think it could be something else.

  • rdyke1947 Nov 11, 2010

    My manual (Haynes) does not show an ECM so I am not sure what it looks like and where it is located. Could it be called something else in the manual (it mentions a PCM that controls ignition) under the glove box.

  • rdyke1947 Nov 11, 2010

    OK bear with me. I have the PCM out and there are no markings on it or the four connectors to tell me what E3 E1 and IGF are. Also I cannot find a connector where all four sets of wires from ithe coil come together, they go into the harness and to where, I don't know. I have the battery neg removed at this time as manual said I could set off air bags if I disconnect PCM while it's attached.

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Hello! An unusual fault...Lets eliminate the plugs right up front just to be sure...What brand and part # plug did you install? There are five plugs that are made for your 1.8L...Bosch #4202...Autolite #AP3924...Champion #33182...NKG #7090...and Denso #4503...All gaped at .044"...

Are the P13** the only codes stored? how long are you leaving the negative battery cable disconnected in order to clear the P1300-1315?...The problem looks like it is involving another sensor...Send a comment And I'll take it from there...

Guru.......saailer

Posted on Nov 11, 2010

  • 1 more comment 
  • David Burbee
    David Burbee Nov 11, 2010

    Hello! I would find it hard to believe that you damaged all four Ignition coils and Ignitors...It looks like a faulty Throttle Positioning Sensor (TPS)...But lets eliminate a few items...Ground is multipled to all four coils on the White/Black wire...With an ohm meter set on the lowest scale measure from all four White/Black wires to the center of the negative battery terminal...Should read zero ohms, or close to it...Set meter to read 12 volts...Measure, with key on, to all four Black/White wires of the coils...Must read +12 (battery voltage)...also tell me the part number and brand of the new coils/ignitors you installed...
    saailer

  • David Burbee
    David Burbee Nov 11, 2010

    Hello! Something just occurred to me...There are two engine options for your vehicle...One of which is the XRS...This engine uses a different Ignition Coil...See picture of XRS coil...




    This is a coil for the Non-XRS



    Is it possible you have installed incorrect coils?....saailer

  • David Burbee
    David Burbee Nov 11, 2010

    Hello! Please pardon the error...I am terribly sorry...The mistake has been corrected...I had two Toyota troubles and inadvertently swapped data...Allow me to redeem myself...There are two wiring multiples in the ignitor harness... one is the return (ground) and the other is the battery supply to the ignitor...The wiring harness becomes brittle over time...there is a high probability the fault is in the harness...since all four are involved; the ground...White/Black (pin 4 of all four connectors) or battery...Black/White (pin 1 of all four connectors) is resistive rather than open...the processor "sees" this fault and disallows full throttle...Location requires metering to repair the harness...The option is yours as to replace or repair...

    As mentioned earlier, set ohm meter on lowest scale and measure from the center of the negative battery post to Ignition coil # 1 on the White/Black wire..Using safety pins push one pin into the rear of the in-place connector on the White/Black wire...Record reading...Set meter to read +12 volts...Insert safety pin into the rear of the Black/White wire...With key in the ON position measure voltage at Coil # 1 on the Black/White wire...Record reading...Again, I'm so sorry for misleading you...I understand how important the your vehicle is to you...saailer

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Do you still have old spark plugs?I would put old plugs back in and see if codes go away. might have wrong plugs cusing it to set codes. have seen this before on other vehicles especially when running some type of "performance" type of plug

Posted on Nov 11, 2010

  • 3 more comments 
  • TripleTauto
    TripleTauto Nov 11, 2010

    also be sure you did not crack a plug while installing

  • TripleTauto
    TripleTauto Nov 11, 2010

    I doubt all 4 coil packs went bad at once while it is possible it is unlikely. It is probably a wiring issue I will have someone on here who is more experienced in toyotas than me help you his name is toyotaed and he can probably herlp you better

  • TripleTauto
    TripleTauto Nov 11, 2010

    There is a junction connector where all coil pack wires come together into harness have you checked this?

    (a) Disconnect the ignition coil connector.

    (b) Disconnect the ECM E3 connector.

    (c) Check for open between the terminals IGF of the ECM

    connector and IGF of the ignition coil connector.

    Resistance: 1 ω or less

    (d) Check for short between the terminals IGF of the ECM

    connector and E1 of the ECM connector.

    Resistance: 1 M
    ω or less





    (a) Disconnect the ignition coil connector.

    (b) Turn the ignition switch ON.

    (c) Measure voltage between the terminals IGF of the ECM

    connector and E1 ECM connector.

    Voltage: 4.5
    5.5 V if this is not in specs replace the ecm



    Most likely cause is going to be ecm it is the common denominator in the equation all 4 coils going out at same time unlikely it is going to be a wire or faulty ecm

    (a) Disconnect the ignition coil connector.

    (b) Disconnect the ECM E3 connector.

    (c) Check for open between the terminals IGF of the ECM

    connector and IGF of the ignition coil connector.

    Resistance: 1 ω or less

    (d) Check for short between the terminals IGF of the ECM

    connector and E1 of the ECM connector.
    Resistance: 1 Mω or less


    (a) Disconnect the ignition coil connector.

    (b) Turn the ignition switch ON.

    (c) Measure voltage between the terminals IGF of the ECM

    connector and E1 ECM connector.
    Voltage: 4.5 5.5 V if this is not in specs replace the ecm

    Most likely cause is going to be ecm it is the common denominator in the equation all 4 coils going out at same time unlikely it is going to be a wire or faulty ecm

  • TripleTauto
    TripleTauto Nov 11, 2010

    yes pcm will be same as ecm

  • TripleTauto
    TripleTauto Nov 11, 2010

    SHOULD BE 4 CONNECTORS ON ECM. LOOKS like the one on the left is harness you need to check. must be careful as to not spread terminals or just probe around you can do more damage than good

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