Question about 2005 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD 2WD

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My vehicle does not heat up quick. I have to drive it for about 15 minutes before heat begins to flow from the vents.

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Your thermostat may be stuck open. That allows the coolant to the radiator before the engine is up to operating temperature, which makes it take much longer to heat up. Try replacing the thermostat.

Posted on Nov 10, 2010

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Heat problem. Heater only works sometimes. Blows out almost AC temperature majority of the time. No engine overheating problems. May or may not be related to actuator issue (vent always open)


Check to see if your heating system is properly filled. Air in system can often prevent the proper flow of hot coolant into the radiator core resulting in your issue.

Oct 20, 2015 | 2002 Chevrolet S-10

Tip

Tips for operating Air conditioning system on Toyota Hilux and someother...


To cool off your Toyota after it has been parked in the hot sun, drive with the windows open for a few minutes. This vents the hot air, allowing the air conditioning to cool the interior more quickly.

Make sure the air intake grilles in front of the windshield are not blocked (by leaves or snow, for example).

On humid, do not blow cold air on the windshield. The windshield could fog up because of the difference in air temperature on the inside and outside of the windshield.

Keep the area under the front seats clear to allow air to circulate throughout the vehicle.

On cold days, set the fan speed to high for a minute to help clear the intake ducts of snow or moisture. This can reduce the amount of fogging on the windows.

When driving on dusty roads, close all windows. If dust thrown up b the vehicle is still drawn into the vehicle after closing the windows, it is recommended that the in intake be set to FRESH and the fan speed to any setting except "OFF".

If following another vehicle on a dusty road, or driving in windy and dusty conditions, it is recommended that the air intake be temporarily set to RECIRCULATE, which will close off the outside passage and prevent outside air and dust from entering the vehicle interior.

HEATING

For best results, set controls to;
Fan speed ---- Any setting except "OFF"
Temperature----Towards WARM (red zone)
Air intake ---- FRESH (outside air)
Air flow ---- FLOOR
Air conditioning ---- OFF

For quick heating, select recirculated air for a few minutes. To keep the windows from fogging, select fresh after the vehicle has been warmed.

Press the "A/C" button on for dehumidified heating.

Choose floor/windshield air flow to heat the voltage interior while defrosting or defogging the windshield.

AIR CONDITIONING

For best results, set controls to;

Fan speed --- Any setting except 'OFF"
Temperature --- Towards COLD (blue zone)
Air intake --- (outside air)
Air flow --- PANEL
Air conditioning --- ON

For quick cooling, move the air intake selector to recirculate for a few minutes.

VENTILATION

For best results, set controls to;

Fan speed --- Any setting except 'OFF"
Temperature --- Towards COLD (blue zone)
Air intake --- (outside air)
Air flow --- PANEL
Air conditioning --- ON

DEFOGGING

The inside of the windshield

For best results, set controls to:

Fan speed --- Any setting except 'OFF"
Temperature --- Towards WARM (red zone) to heat; COLD (blue zone) to cool
Air intake --- FRESH (outside air)
Air flow --- WINDSHIELD
Air conditioning --- ON

The outside of the windshield

For best results, set controls to:

Fan speed --- Any setting except 'OFF"
Temperature --- Towards WARM (red zone)
Air intake --- FRESH (outside air)
Air flow --- WINDSHIELD
Air conditioning --- OFF

On humid days, do not blow cold air on the windshield. The windshield could fog up because of the difference in air temperature on the inside and outside of the windshield.

DEFROSTING

The outside of the windshield

For best results, set controls to:

Fan speed --- Any setting except 'OFF"
Temperature --- Towards WARM (red zone)
Air intake --- FRESH (outside air)
Air flow --- WINDSHIELD
Air conditioning --- OFF

To heat the vehicle interior while defrosting the windshield, choose floor/windshield air flow.

on Feb 14, 2011 | Toyota Pickup Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Low pitched humming noise coming from engine compartment. it will last anywhere from 10 to 15 secs. It begins quietly but quickly ramps up to a rather loud volume. it then will disipate quickly. Ever hear...


do not blow that precious vehicle up...drive that thing to autozone have them read your problem free ...it will pinpoint the entire problem ..you saved your vehicle and some money ...Now you are your own mechanic

Oct 23, 2013 | 2001 Mercury Grand Marquis

1 Answer

I have a problem with air flow from the vents when I drive for 45 minutes to 1 hr. The AC works great around town for short trips but when I have a long trip, after about 45 minutes air flow almost...


the evaporator is freezing up, this then limits the air flow. if you stopped the vehicle and after a short time a very large pool of water would be leaking out of drain tube from vehicle (on ground under vehicle) confirming this. some water is normal. the evaporator thermistor or temperature sensor (thermostat) needs setting or replacing, or checking that it hasent fallen off of evaporator core.this then causes the air compressor to continually run and not cut in and out like it should, so it freezes up after longer operation. A/C system being slightly over full, or sticky/jammed open TX valve can give same symptoms also. take to automotive A/C place to check system with pressure gauge set

Oct 07, 2013 | 2000 Chevrolet Blazer

1 Answer

The hot air from the vents begins to cool down when the vehicle is stopped or slows down.


sounds like a possible plugged heater core, restricting the flow of coolant. those require a special tool to remove, quick disconnect, just remove both hose from the heater core and back flush the heater core with a garden hose, NOTICE DO NOT DO THIS WHILE HOT IT WILL BURN YOU, this can make a mess, flush it both ways untill it flows clean and with even pressure, then refill the coolant and road test the vehicle to see if is changed.

Jan 15, 2013 | 2001 Chevrolet Suburban

1 Answer

When car idles temp stays normal but when i start driving the temp of the car gets cold and so does the heat? i changed the thermostat and freeze plug and had radiator flushed.


My suggestion would be to take your vehicle to your nearest trusted automotive repair center and have them test the coolant system - this sort of test is relatively inexpensive and will reveal problems with coolant flow including thermostat operation.
A point to note is that when you are driving the vehicle and it begins to cool, especial for a manual transmission vehicle, you will notice a rise in RPM's as the engine attempts to warm up and this can lead to premature aging of the engine.
You will likely need to replace a temperature sensor, but a quick test will reveal where and what.

Jan 30, 2010 | 1998 Mercury Sable

1 Answer

Going thru coolant like crazy but theres no leak. we done so much so far. we put a water pump in and a therpasat in and sencer in and intake gaskets


Well first off, since you have replaced many parts, perhaps you have air in the system. Also check the oil to see if it looks like chocolate milk or is extremely high (indicating a blown head gasket).
While system is cold, add coolant to the radiator (if applicable) and the coolant tank. Then start the vehicle and turn the heater on high heat - full blast. Let run for 15 minutes or until the engine begins to overheat or the coolant tank become empty. Let the vehicle cool down (30 minutes) then repeat until it coolant level doesn't drop or engine doesn't overheat.
Now go for a test drive for about 10 - 15 miles make sure to take hills and highway/freeway. Let vehicle cool down and recheck coolant tank and radiator. If level has gone down then something is wrong. Perhaps the thermostat is in backwards.

Jan 06, 2010 | 2003 Pontiac Grand Am

2 Answers

2005 Pathfinder Heat Flow problem


I am having/had the same problem. My rear heater has not worked the last 2 winters, still trying to figure that one out. But I think I solved the front heat problem myself. The heater was blowing cold air while idling and hot air when the car was moving.

I jacked up the front of the vehicle, took the cap off of the reserve tank for the radiator, turned the car on and ran the heat (AC off) for 15 minutes. This is supposed to release any air bubbles in the coolant system and I did see air bubbles emerge as I was watching (this might be normal occurance, I'm far from a mechanical expert). Anyway, this did not immediately solve the problem, still blowing cold air as it sat there idling after 15 minutes. Dejected, I put the cap back on, lowered the vehicle and resigned myself to taking it to a dealer.

But a funny thing happened the next day, the coolant level was a lower (no leaks on the floor) so I filled up, and sure enough, when I started the car and let it warm up a little, hot air started coming out of the heater!!!

As far as my wife knows, I fixed the problem for the price of a bottle of coolant, so I am a hero...but at first I thought it didn't work. Here we are a month later and still blowing warm air and haven't had to replace any more coolant...the internet is a wonderful thing!

Hope this works for you, and I hope I can figure out my rear heater problem as well.

Jan 22, 2009 | 2006 Nissan Pathfinder

5 Answers

2005 GMC Yukon air conditioning


this just happen to me 2005 denali; dead battery in the morning, replaced it...and I have cold on drivers & screaming hot on passenger...is there a fix posted....& I just dont see it?? what gives?

Aug 02, 2008 | 2005 GMC Yukon

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