Question about 2004 Honda Accord

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My honda accord 2004 key won't remotely open/lock the doors. How do I activate it again?

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You have to take the Honda to a local dealer and have them re-progam it. However there may be a small cost. It's take about 2 minutes.

Posted on Nov 10, 2010

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Please,check up for a possible solution here.

Posted on Nov 10, 2010

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I think that the key charges it self whit the car at the moment it`s in the ignition switch,you are going to need a new key.

Posted on Nov 10, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 2004 honda accord driver side lock won't open remote

driver side has most use and breaks down quickest.
Typically, the lock wears, and should be oiled using graphite powder, not oil, as with most outdoor locks.
However, in winter moisture turns to ice and freezes lock.
In this case, try to squirt lock de-icer (usually this is methyl alcohol or some other type).
Don't use an alcohol (such as from drugstore) that also contains water.
that would make matters worse.
If you spray enough lock deicer or even a high-quality penetrating oil, you may be able to work key and lock to a point where you can turn it.

Don't force key rapidly or too strongly, as it will bend, and may break off in lock.

You can spray some alcohol or penetrating fluid on the key to work it into the lock better.
Sometimes, you can get at a frozen lock mechanism by spraying down into **** between window and metal door from above lock.
Sometimes, you might find that the door itself is frozen,
or the lock latch is frozen, and not the key-tumbler.
In this case, you can try body-checking (not kicking) the door,
to loosen the frozen edges around door and window.
If you can get into car from other side, you can sometimes open it from inside to break ice-jam.

If this is an electrical problem
(only remote doesn't work)
The likely cause is broken wire in wire-harness from car body to door.
There will usually be a group of wires either inside a cable or bundled in a rubber tubing, going from car to door at front between hinges.
Here is where the electrical connection will be broken,
because the wires break eventually as they get flexed over and over.

IN this case, the only permanent fix is to find the wire (it will be color-coded), and replace at least 6 inches of that wire (it will probably be broken inside insulating sheath.)
Alternately, there may be an open-circuit at connector to door-latch solonoid. Here you might get lucky if you get inside door-cover off and wiggle or re-insert the plug connector.
Also possible that solenoid is just burnt out or open-circuit.
In that case it must be replaced, for the remote signal to effectively open door lock.

Posted on Jan 26, 2012

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driver side has most use and breaks down quickest.
Typically, the lock wears, and should be oiled using graphite powder, not oil, as with most outdoor locks.
However, in winter moisture turns to ice and freezes lock.
In this case, try to squirt lock de-icer (usually this is methyl alcohol or some other type).
Don't use an alcohol (such as from drugstore) that also contains water.
that would make matters worse.
If you spray enough lock deicer or even a high-quality penetrating oil, you may be able to work key and lock to a point where you can turn it.

Don't force key rapidly or too strongly, as it will bend, and may break off in lock.

You can spray some alcohol or penetrating fluid on the key to work it into the lock better.
Sometimes, you can get at a frozen lock mechanism by spraying down into **** between window and metal door from above lock.
Sometimes, you might find that the door itself is frozen,
or the lock latch is frozen, and not the key-tumbler.
In this case, you can try body-checking (not kicking) the door,
to loosen the frozen edges around door and window.
If you can get into car from other side, you can sometimes open it from inside to break ice-jam.

If this is an electrical problem
(only remote doesn't work)
The likely cause is broken wire in wire-harness from car body to door.
There will usually be a group of wires either inside a cable or bundled in a rubber tubing, going from car to door at front between hinges.
Here is where the electrical connection will be broken,
because the wires break eventually as they get flexed over and over.

IN this case, the only permanent fix is to find the wire (it will be color-coded), and replace at least 6 inches of that wire (it will probably be broken inside insulating sheath.)
Alternately, there may be an open-circuit at connector to door-latch solonoid. Here you might get lucky if you get inside door-cover off and wiggle or re-insert the plug connector.
Also possible that solenoid is just burnt out or open-circuit.
In that case it must be replaced, for the remote signal to effectively open door lock.

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