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First there are no computers used on vehicles
to diagnose anything
You had a code reader put on your vehicle
The code you got is a system fault code
It does not tell you anything is wrong or to
replace a part
The code is used to diagnose the system with
In your case you got the sensor correct, I believe,
it just wasn't the problem. It just went out of range
Personally I think the auto parts store is a waste of
time and confuses people and it is because too
many people suggest you go there,including people
on this site. That is fine if you understand OBD2 Systems
and have trouble charts to work from in your driveway
I think that the ABS TRAC OFF light has more to do with the ABS sensors not giving reliable speed or movement information to the ABS Control Module. Harness connections or broken wires to the module can cause the same problem, or the hub assembly ($49 to $79 to $109 for the part) may have to be replaced to start with.
The driver door window switch not functioning correctly may be a bad or dirty switch which can be obtained from a salvage yard for a lower price than from the dealer. I would test the switch current before replacing, though, with a test light to ensure the wiring is not an issue with this circuit, as well.
Good luck on these repairs on the 2005 Buick Century.
first i would purchase a new radiator cap 15 lbs 16 lb capacity cost about $7..then you must let car cool completely...now check radiator coolant level.. top off if it needs it. Now install new cap..let car warm up normally and after it get to normal temp range or higher put hand on upper radiator hose..it should feel hot and when you squeeze it you should feel a slight back pressure..this will mean that the thermostat and water pump are working correctly. if not either the thermostat you purchased is defective or your pump may not be working properly. when you use just water in an engine the boiling point becomes 212 when you add the correct amount of antifreeze, depending on where you live, the boiling point will go up to 240 degrees. Make sure you put in the correct amount of mix.50/50 will usually work well. sometimes when a gauge does max out like that it could just be trapped air. if after you checked all this out and no air is trapped in the system, i would think that you may have a bad temp sensor. let me know if this helped thanks.
hi the MAF is more than likley to produce the wrong fuel to air mix, all the lamda realy does is keep an eye on the burnt fuel deposites and then sends the signal back to the ecu, which in turn then opens or closes the mixture , but if it is sending the correct signal and the MAF is not reading it right this will in turn cause your system to run either lean or rich, it may actually not be faulty as such , as it is still working according to the ecu so you wont get any error codes hope that helps sorta
Have your injector pump checked for fuel and air leaks. This is most likely what's causing the problem since there are no trouble codes. You may also want to check fuel pressures even though you changed your fuel filter. This may also be an issue regarding your turbo. If it isn't rotating properly, air induction will be slow and the motor will stall because it's starving for air. Note your exhaust fumes. If you do see black smoke more than likely it is starving for air. This is notorious in all diesel engines. Hope this helps, good luck!
If all the service's where done, tune up, trans service, front end align and so on maybe 10-20,000 miles, one big one how are the brakes? has the timing belt been replaced? At this high of miles you just can't be sure, my Dad had one of these it went 200,000 but then things starting going wrong, timing belt broke, alternator went out, numerous electrical problems, he sold it, it was bankrupting him at the last.