Want to lift my surburban three inches.

TYres on the same axle must be of the same type and size.

Check the fuses and relay for it if the fuse is good swap the relay if that doesn't work the switch has failed get back with more of what's happening for dismantle instructions of the rear door and panels this could be a dirty connections issue to

Drain the gas tank. I didn't have a lift so I used a floor jack under neath the gas tank. I used a piece of plywood on top of floor jack that would fit between tank straps. Take the fill tube loose, take fuel lines and electrical connectors loose. Take tank straps loose,you may have to drop tank a little to reach some connections. If I remember correctly the fuel pump is in the middle of tank. I don't know if you would want to cut hole in floor of surburban to reach pump? I don't have any info about cutting that hole, if you try that, that is your responsibility.

Does it still have the tailgate lift cylinders? The power tailgate lift is designed to work with the cylinders,but it won't work if the cylinders have lost their pressure.

The body lift is included to ensure the larger tires can cycle through the full range of suspension movements without touching anything. The nice thing is that lifting a Jeep Wrangler (TJ) is easily done in stages:
- A 1 inch body lift will allow you to easily clear a slightly larger tire than stock, very inexpensively
- A 2 inch suspension lift would allow another tire-size upgrade, and increase ground clearance as dollars allow

In the end, a 1" body lift, combined with a 2" or 3" suspension lift will allow you to fit a 33" tire under these Jeeps. This not only increases your actual ground clearnace under the axle by almost 3 inches, but those new springs will flex a lot better than the old ones, so your Jeep will be much more capable offroad.

Combine this simple lifting strategy with aggressive fender trimming, and you could stuff 35" tires under that rig of yours - that would be good for almost 4 inches of extra clearance (over stock) under the axles - but you'd want to look at upgrading those axles if you're going with a tire over 33".

Other Lift Considerations... running out and slapping on some pucks under your body tub might sound easy, but there is a bunch to consider before the wrenches start flying:

* Get replacement bolts ready - the old rusty ones will be tough to get out and you'll want new ones to install
* Make sure you use actual body lift components - some areas will not allow a Jeep equipped with hockey pucks as body mounts to pass inspections - don't laugh, it happenes every day
* Be ready to lengthen wires and control linkages as needed - going up 1 inch shouldn't pose a problem, any higher might. You'll need to fabricate longer shifter and t-case handles, and watch for any other items which need lengthening.
* DO NOT run a body lift any higher than 3 inches - even that's a bit much. All you are doing it raising the centre of gravity and rather than the lift blocks supporting the mass of the body (and you) vertially, the bolts now must carry the weight through the turns. Think of it - does it seem safe to have 6, 1/2" or so bolts holding roughly 2500 lbs worth of body tub and humans in place? Keep it to 1 inch if at all possible.

Don't forget, if you raise the suspension, you'll need to install longer trac bars to locate the axles and adjust or replace steering components to keep the angles of steering-related items within specs. A full, complete kit, will have everything you need. Be sure to double and triple check those trac-bars - there's two in TJ Wranglers - one for each axle. Their job is to located the axle under the Jeep - if you hear a clunking noise after the install, chances are the mounting or location bolts/nuts are loose. In general, these nuts/bolts cannot be tight enough. Re-check them periodically and after every two or three trail rides. As with any suspension changes, go get an alignment when you're done.

Visit this link to know details about 2003 JEEP WRANGLER TJ INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS BODY LIFT KIT

Hope this helps (remember to rate and comment this answer).

have the pressure checked in the fuel system, sounds like to me that your fuel system is losing pressure as the car sits,, try this, turn the key to the on position , ( not start) and count to 25 slowly, then try and start it, ( this will give the system time to pressurize again, ) if it does, change the fuel pump

Those GM truck spare tire lifts can be a problem. There's a secondary catch to prevent the tire from accidently coming down. The problem seems to happen when corrosion sets in due to exposure to the elements. The secondary catch won't release. If you can lower the tire a little bit you should be able to reached up over top the spare tire and the lift. In the center is a bolt the holds the lift in place (I believe it has a 15 mm head). I removed the bolt and was able to lower the tire and lift assembly. It's easier to clean and lube the lift if it's on the ground. Check the spring at the end of the cable. If it's brocken you'll have to replace the lift.

Inside door handle? unscrew two screws in arm rest, then lift the back of the window switch up and unplug everything, then insert a small screw driver to pop the small taps loose around the outer edges of the door handle trim ring, then lift the door panel straight up. drill the rivet out and slide the handle forward

Typically all Suburban spare tires are mounted on an under-car carrier. This carrier is usually accessed through a covered key way at the rear bumper near the license plate step. The jack that comes with the Suburban also has a crank rod that is used to raise and lower the jack. The other end of the rod is designed to access the key way to crank the spare tire lift up or down. Cranking the lift in a counterclockwise rotation will lower the spare tire.

I hope this helps:)

I am pretty sure that there is a lift kit available for a 95 dakota. There are a few ways to lift the body of the vehicle. I know a few people who have done it with hockey pucks. Drill holes through the center of the hockey pucks and place them in the body mounts. However, if you want buy a real lift kit, there are several sites that sell lift kits. I recently put a 9" suspension lift on a 1977 F-150. Most companys that make the kits offer more for newer vehicles.
I am not sure if I am allowed to post other websites, however, I did search for a lift for a 95 dakota and found one right away. There are three types of lifts that you can do. One is very limited but you can get the truck taller by putting bigger tires on it. Doing this will give you less clearance between the top of the tire and the fender well. There are also body lifts and suspension lifts. Body lifts are less expensive as there are less components to install. Suspension lifts are much more expensive but it is what I would reccomend for a larger lift. For a couple inches I would go with the body lift. For anything over 2 to 3 inches I would reccomend a suspension lift. If you can find a body lift kit for a 95 dakota 4x4, then you can use it on a 2 wheel drive as well.