Question about 1997 Dodge Ram 1500 Club Cab

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Cannot removal gears out of hogshead

Trying to replace seals in front driveshaft but cannot get gears to come out . How do I remove them?

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Posted on Jun 19, 2008


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How do you replace rear oil seal in 1994 Isuzu Standard tranmission

Chockblock front wheels to prevent truck rolling, and jack vehicle up and place a jackstand under frame to prevent vehicle falling. Remove driveshaft, seal is now visible to be pried out for new one to be lightly tapped into place with a rubber mallet or hammer, along with a wooden block, taking care to keep new seal straight while replacing. replace driveshaft and check fluid level, lower vehicle and remove chockblocks.

Feb 13, 2015 | 1994 Isuzu Pickup

1 Answer

Replace cv joints

Hi Douglas, I'm glad to help. My first suggestion is to get to complete shaft. This way you want have any problems later on. It's not that much more expensive and you'll be glad you did. Below is the procedure for replacing them.


  1. Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. Refer to Hoisting in the Lubrication And Maintenance section of this manual for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
  2. Remove the cotter pin and nut lock Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut from the end of the stub axle.
  3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly from the vehicle.
  4. Remove the wave washer Wave Washer from the end of the stub axle CAUTION: Wheel bearing damage will result if after loosening hub nut, vehicle is rolled on the ground or the weight of the vehicle is allowed to be supported by the tires.
  5. With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub from turning, loosen and remove the stub axle to hub nut.
  6. Remove the two front disc brake caliper to steering knuckle attaching bolts Front Disc Brake Caliper Attaching Bolts
  7. Remove the disc brake caliper from the steering knuckle. Caliper is removed by first rotating top of caliper away from steering knuckle and then removing bottom of caliper out from under machined abutment on steering knuckle Brake Caliper Mounting To Steering Knuckle
  8. Support disc brake caliper assembly by using a wire hook and suspending it from the strut assembly Correctly Supported Disc Brake Caliper Do not allow the brake caliper assembly to hang by the brake flex hose.
  9. Remove the brake rotor from the hub and bearing assembly Remove/Install Brake Rotor
  10. Remove nut attaching outer tie rod end to steering knuckle Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut Nut is to be removed from tie rod end using the following procedure, hold tie rod end stud with a 11/32 socket while loosening and removing nut with a wrench.
  11. Remove tie rod end from steering knuckle using Remover, Special Tool MB-991113 Tie Rod End Removal From Steering Knuckle Arm
  12. Remove the steering knuckle to ball joint stud, clamping nut and bolt Control Arm To Steering Knuckle Attachment from the steering knuckle.
  13. Using a pry bar, separate steering knuckle from ball joint stud Separating Ball Joint Stud From Steering Knuckle Note: Use caution when separating ball joint stud from steering knuckle, so ball joint seal does not get cut. NOTE: Care must be taken not to separate the inner C/V joint during this operation. Do not allow driveshaft to hang by inner C/V joint after removing outer C/V Joint from the hub/bearing assembly in steering knuckle, end of driveshaft must be supported.
  14. Pull steering knuckle assembly out and away from the outer C/V joint of the driveshaft assembly Steering Knuckle Separation From Driveshaft
  15. Support the outer end of the driveshaft assembly. Insert a pry bar between inner tripod joint and transaxle case Disengaging Inner Tripod Joint From Transaxle Pry against inner tripod joint, until tripod joint retaining snap ring is disengaged from transaxle side gear.
  16. Hold inner tripod joint and interconnecting shaft of driveshaft assembly. Remove inner tripod joint from transaxle, by pulling it straight out of transaxle side gear and transaxle oil seal Tripod Joint Removal from Transaxle When removing tripod joint, do not let spline or snap ring drag across sealing lip of the transaxle to tripod joint oil seal.
  1. Thoroughly clean spline and oil seal sealing surface, on tripod joint. Lightly lubricate oil seal sealing surface on tripod joint with fresh clean transmission lubricant.
  2. Holding driveshaft assembly by tripod joint and interconnecting shaft, install tripod joint into transaxle side gear as far as possible by hand Tripod Joint Removal from Transaxle
  3. Grasp inner tripod joint an interconnecting shaft. Forcefully push the tripod joint into side gear of transaxle, until snap ring is engaged with transaxle side gear. Test that snap ring is fully engaged with side gear by attempting to remove tripod joint from transaxle by hand. If snap ring is fully engaged with side gear, tripod joint will not be removable by hand.
  4. Clean all debris and moisture out of steering knuckle, in the area were outer C/V joint will be installed into steering knuckle.
  5. Ensure that front of outer C/V joint which fits against the face of the hub and bearing is free of debris and moisture before installing outer C/V joint into hub and bearing assembly Outer C/V Joint Inspection
  6. Slide drive shaft back into front hub and bearing assembly. Then install steering knuckle onto the stud of the ball joint assembly Steering Knuckle Separation From Driveshaft
  7. Install a new steering knuckle to ball joint clamping bolt and nut Control Arm To Steering Knuckle Attachment Tighten the clamping bolt and nut to a torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.)
  8. Install tie rod end into steering knuckle. Start attaching nut onto stud of tie rod end. While holding stud of tie rod end stationary using a 11/32 socket, Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut tighten tie rod end to steering knuckle attaching nut. Then using a crowfoot and 11/32 socket Torquing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut , tighten the tie rod end attaching nut to a torque of 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.)
  9. Install braking disc on hub and bearing assembly Remove/Install Brake Rotor
  10. Install disc brake caliper assembly on steering knuckle. Caliper is installed by first sliding bottom of caliper under abutment on steering knuckle, and then rotating top of caliper against top abutment Brake Caliper Mounting To Steering Knuckle
  11. Install disc brake caliper assembly to steering knuckle attaching bolts Front Disc Brake Caliper Attaching Bolts Tighten the disc brake caliper assembly attaching bolts to a torque of 22 N·m (195 in. lbs.)
  12. Clean all foreign matter from the threads of the outer C/V joint stub axle. Install the washer and stub axle to hub/bearing assembly nut on stub axle and securely tighten nut.
  13. Install front wheel and tire assembly. Install and tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half the required specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.)
  14. Lower vehicle.
  15. With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub from turning, tighten the hub nut to a torque of 244 N·m (180 ft. lbs.) Torquing Front Stub Axle To Hub Nut
  16. Install the spring wave washer on the end of the stub axle.
  17. Install the hub nut lock, and a new cotter pin Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut Wrap cotter pin prongs tightly around the hub nut lock as shown in Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut
  18. Check for correct fluid level in transaxle assembly. Refer to Group 21, Transaxle for the correct fluid level checking procedure for the type of transaxle being checked.
  19. Set front toe on vehicle to required specification.

May 07, 2014 | 2000 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

How to remove rack and pinion from 99 chrysler lhs

There are few help links showing exact accurate procedure to replace Rack and Pinion. Click the link below and follow the procedure:-----
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These details will help.

Nov 23, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 2003 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4. When the truck slows to a stop, and just as it stops, there is a very loud grinding noise that comes from the rear of the vehicle. I checked underneath and there is fluid...

The fluid splattered all over is most likely coming from the pinion seal. (The seal at the front of the differential where the driveshaft yoke goes in.) Normally, you would remove the driveshaft and the pinion yoke to relace the seal. The grinding however, leads me to believe that the seal leaking is a RESULT not a CAUSE of your problem. The way you describe it sounds like you may have some serious pinion and/or ring gear damage inside the differential.
If this is the case, there are severl ways to go about repairing this. You could tear your differential apart and replace the defective/damaged parts inside. You could replace your differential with a used one from a salvage yard. You could replace your differential with a remanufactured differential assembly.

To check for damage, remove the rear cover from the differential and check for metal in the oil and in the bottom of the housing. You can also turn the ring gear around and check for broken teeth. You can also inspect the spider gears and pinion gear for damage.


Apr 30, 2011 | Dodge Ram 1500 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How can i change the seal that is between the motor and the transmision?

if you are talking about the automatic transmission front seal, then you will have to remove the driveshaft, and then remove the transmission, in order to remove the seal from the front of the transmission, this is a timely job, and care has to be done in replacing the seal in, order to get it started straight , take a large socket or seal installation tool, or a piece of a wood 2/4, and hammer, and gradually tap the new seal inward till it bottoms out, then re install the transmission, and driveshaft , and start vehicle up and check fluid level, and you should be ok.

Apr 25, 2011 | 1988 GMC Jimmy

1 Answer

My 1994 Jimmy was in a rear end accident and all the transmisson fuel leaked out. I aws able to operate the transmisson after the wreck so I think it is the rear seal. What's the procedure for replacing...

Replacing the rear transmission seal involves removing the driveshaft for access.

Depending on the ground clearance of the vehicle, you may need to raise the rear of the car and support it on safety stands. Please make sure that the car is completely stable before continuing any work if you do need to raise it.

You will need some tools, mainly the correct sized wrenches or socket set to fit the bolts and nuts that must be removed. A large screwdriver will come in handy, a hammer, a marking tool, tape and if the transmission has fluid in it, you should have a container for catching any fluid that will leak out. You will of course need the correct seal for the back of the transmission and transmission fluid of the correct type to replace any that leaks out during this procedure.

The first step is to mark the location of the driveshaft in relation to the connection on the rear end. Using chalk or some type of marker, make a mark on the driveshaft and also the pinion yoke. This yoke is the part that the driveshaft universal joint is bolted too. Once that is done, you can start unbolting the caps or straps that are holding the universal joint to the rear end. With those connections out of the way, gently use the screwdriver to lever the driveshaft forward far enough for the universal to clear the pinion yoke. Now drop the back of the driveshaft down and using the tape, wrap a few runs around the universal joint and its caps. This will keep them from falling off and getting dirt in the caps which can damage the inner bearings.

Now you are ready to remove the driveshaft. While not very heavy, it can be a bit tough to handle while laying under a vehicle. Take your time and simply pull the driveshaft backwards until the front input shaft slides out of the transmission. With the container in place, any fluid that escapes should be caught. You can now lay the driveshaft to the side, but place a rag underneath the input shaft to minimize any dirt being picked up.

You can now remove the rear seal from the transmission. Normally using the screwdriver and being careful to only pry on the seal, you should be able to lever out the seal. You may need to work your way around the seal, levering it out a little bit at a time, but it will come out. With the seal out, wipe the seal area to remove any dirt, fluid, etc. I prefer to put a touch of sealant around the outside circumference of the seal (painted area), but it is not mandatory, just a little insurance. Using the hammer, carefully tap the seal back into place. Take your time and do not damage or bend the rubber seal area.

Now you can put the driveshaft back in, but here are a couple of tips. First, place the gear selector in neutral, this will help you line up the back of the driveshaft with the marks that you made during removal. Second, wipe the rubber of the seal with just a touch of transmission fluid to lubricate it.

Once you have the driveshaft input shaft back in the transmission, you will need to line up your marks on the driveshaft and rear pinion yoke. You should be able to rotate the driveshaft as needed, then remove the tape and push the driveshaft back in place. Replace the caps or straps, start the bolts, then put the gear selector back in park. Now you can tighten down the bolts or nuts as required.

Safely lower the car back to the ground, top up the transmission fluid as required and you are finished.

Please let me know if you have any additional questions concerning this issue.

May 07, 2010 | 1994 GMC Jimmy

2 Answers

How to remove rear pinion oil seal on front differential on toyota hilux 1985

remove the front driveshaft, remove nut on yoke, remove yoke, remove seal, put together in reverse order, add oil till full

Feb 08, 2010 | 1985 Toyota 4Runner

1 Answer

5 sp trans rear seal leaking

Replace the seal. Also advise inspecting the front U-joint on the driveshaft. The front U-joint receives the most wear. Excessive wear on this joint will cause the transmission rear seal to fail.

To replace the seal:

USE safety equipment. You may not have, or wish to use a pair of mechanics gloves, but I HIGHLY advise donning a pair of safety goggles. It's relatively easy to get debris in your eyes when working in this situation.

1.Drain the transmission in a suitable container. I don't know how old the transmission gear oil is in your 1997 Nissan, but if you believe it to be the original gear oil, it's best to change it.

Check with your nearest Nissan dealer as to what gear oil is recommended. It may use a specific type that has additives in it.
There may have also been a change that came down with the gear oil, and the Nissan Parts Department will be aware of it.
(Maybe a change as to a better gear oil now, than when your 1997 Nissan was manufactured)

1 pound = 1/2 Quart
If your Nissan is two wheel drive, the capacity is 3.3 pounds

Based on two wheel drive and not four wheel.

2.Remove the driveshaft.

A.Start with the four bolts that connect the driveshaft, to the rear differential. Place all bolts that you remove in a suitable container. (Coffee can? Butter bowl? Magnetic parts tray?)

B.Disconnect the center bearing support

C.Place a suitable container under the end of the transmission housing, where the driveshaft enters. When you pull the driveshaft out, residual gear oil will drip out. Ease the driveshaft back.

Be aware that as the front yoke comes out of the transmission, that it will flop down if not supported.
(If you are holding the driveshaft with both hands, and one hand is not supporting the front yoke)

If you hand is in the wrong place you can get your hand/fingers pinched.

D.Now it's time to remove the seal.

You have to use care in order to Not scratch, or gouge, the outside seal area in the transmission housing, and to Not scratch the transmission main shaft.

There are several ways to remove the seal, and only one professional way.

Professional way:
Use the proper tool

A.There are many tools designed for this application. I recommend an inexpensive one.

This is an example,

Your nearest auto parts store should have a tool similar to this. They make a design similar to this one, but it has a separate head from the shaft. I recommend the solid 1-piece design. Less apt to break.

As you can see the head of the seal puller has a curved edge. The thin pointed tip is inserted into the seal area, with the curved edge of the puller resting on the transmission housing. It's the same principle as using a crowbar.

The tip is just inserted past the rubber portion of the seal, and catches the metal ring of the seal. Do Not insert the tip beyond the metal ring of the seal. You can scratch the inside of the transmission housing, causing a leak when you insert the new seal.

The puller tool is rocked back with the tip pulling out of the metal ring. Most seals are tight. The metal ring will deform where the tip of the tool rests against it, as you use pressure to pull the seal out.

Pull the seal out a little in this area, then move over a little, and begin again. Keep working you way around, and the seal will come out.
You may be fortunate that the seal will pop out with no trouble!

Use a light, and inspect the seal area on the transmission housing. Clean the transmission tailstock area with a clean rag. Check that the area has no scratches, or gouges.
If a deep scratch or gouge is present your new seal will not seal around the outside metal ring.

If this is present when I do a seal replacement, I thoroughly clean the area, and smooth the scratches/gouges out. (I use the non-flammable type of brake cleaner in a spray can, and a clean rag )

Then I apply a thin coat of Permatex Black silicone adhesive sealant. This isn't an advertisement for Permatex. Use the sealant of your choice. I just know from experience, that Permatex Black will stick in this particular application.

Apply a thin coat to the outside area of the metal ring of the seal. Do Not wait too long to install the seal!

Install the seal:
The professional way is to use a seal installer tool. A round piece of pipe with a smooth edge, can be a substitute. The pipe has to have an opening large enough to go over that transmission's main shaft, and also be large enough to rest on the OUTSIDE edge of the metal ring, of the seal.

If the pipe isn't large enough, it will crush the inside edge of the metal ring. The edge of the pipe must be smooth, and flat also.

You can also insert the seal so that it starts to go in, then go around the Outside edge, with a small ball peen hammer. BE SURE to tap lightly, and Stay on the very outside edge! Takes a little finesse with this method. Keep the seal flat as you are installing it. DO NOT let it tip off to one side. (Do not let the seal come up on one side, with the other side dipped in)
You'll bend the seal.

Before you reinstall the driveshaft's front yoke, take your finger with a few drops of fresh transmission gear oil, and apply the gear oil on the rubber part of the seal. (IF the seal doesn't come pre-lubed. Some do, some don't)
If the driveshaft is inserted into a dry seal, the seal will tear.

Oct 09, 2009 | 1997 Nissan Pickup

2 Answers

Need to change cv outer boot on mazda ba 94 model.

it just pulls out. it hasa circlip that holds it in on driver side. which side?

here's an escort, should be similar. note step 17

  1. Raise and support the vehicle.
  1. Remove the lug nuts (1012) and the front wheel and tire assembly.
  1. Remove the front fender splash shield bolts and the front fender splash shields (16103) .
  1. Use a small cape chisel to carefully raise the staked portion of the front axle wheel hub retainer (3B477).

  1. Remove the front axle wheel hub retainer and discard it.
  1. Remove the cotter pin and the tie rod end nut from the tie rod end (3A130). Discard the cotter pin.

  1. Use an appropriate tie rod end remover to separate the tie rod end from the front wheel knuckle (3K186).

  1. Remove the ball joint bolt and the ball joint bolt nut.

  1. Carefully pry down on the front suspension lower arm (3078) to separate the front suspension lower arm ball joint (3050) from the front wheel knuckle.

  1. Pull outward on the front wheel knuckle (3K185). Carefully pull the front wheel driveshaft and joint from the front wheel knuckle and position it aside.

  1. NOTE: Removal of the LH front wheel driveshaft and joint (3B437) requires removal of the transmission support crossmember (6A023) to allow access with a pry bar. If the LH front wheel driveshaft and joint is being removed, continue with step 11. If the RH front wheel driveshaft and joint is being removed, continue with step 15.

    Support the transaxle with a transaxle jack or equivalent.
  1. Remove the four transaxle mount-to-rear engine support nuts.

  1. Remove the two rear engine support nuts at the rear of the transmission support crossmember.
  1. While supporting the rear of the transmission support crossmember remove the two rear engine support bolts. Remove the transmission support crossmember.

  1. Position a drain pan under the transaxle.
  1. Insert a pry bar between the front wheel driveshaft and joint and the transaxle case.
  1. stf~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Extreme care must be taken to ensure that the pry bar does not damage the transaxle case, the transaxle oil seal, the front wheel driveshaft and joint, or the front wheel driveshaft joint boot (3A331).
    Gently pry outward to release the front wheel driveshaft and joint from the differential side gears (4236).

  1. Remove the front wheel driveshaft and joint.

  1. stf~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: When the LH and RH front wheel driveshaft and joint assemblies are removed, Transaxle Plugs T88C-7025-AH must be inserted to prevent the differential side gears from becoming mispositioned. If the gears become misaligned, the differential will have to be removed from the transaxle to align the gears.
    If both front wheel driveshaft and joints were removed, install Transaxle Plugs T88C-7025-AH in the differential side gears.
  1. Remove and discard the driveshaft bearing retainer circlip (3Z498).

Oct 03, 2009 | 1994 Mazda 323

3 Answers

Replace outer cv boot mazda 323 1985

NO - Here are the steps involved....

Raise the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Drain the lubricant from the transaxle.
  1. Remove the front wheels and splash pan. Raise the tab on the wheel hub locknut, and then have someone apply the brakes as you loosen the nut.
  2. Remove the tow nuts, bushings, and washers, then disconnect the stabilizer bar from the steering knuckle.
  3. Remove the clinch bolts and nuts, then pry the lower control arm downward in order to separate the steering knuckle and lower ball joint. Be careful not to damage the ball joint dust cover.

On the left side:
  1. Insert a lever (for automatic transaxles, you'll have to use a chisel) between the driveshaft and transaxle case (don't go in too for, or you will damage the seal). Tap the end of the pry bar or chisel lightly to pull the shaft out of the case just until it unlocks.
  1. Remove the driveshaft locknut from the center of the brake rotor. Pull the front hub outward and toward the rear. Disconnect the driveshaft from the wheel hub. If necessary, use a puller. Then, pull the driveshaft straight out of the transaxle, supporting the joint on the transaxle side to prevent damage to the seal. Seal the transaxle opening with a clean rag.

On the right side:
  1. Insert a lever between the joint shaft and driveshaft, then gently tap on the outer end of the lever to separate the two shafts.
  1. Remove the driveshaft locknut, then pull the front hub outward and toward the rear. Disconnect the driveshaft from the front hub. If necessary, use a puller. Then, disconnect the driveshaft from the cross-shaft completely.
  2. If it is necessary to remove the cross-shaft, remove the cross-shaft mounting bracket bolts, then remove the shaft and bracket as an assembly, being careful not to disturb the position of differential gears. Cover the opening in the differential case with a clean rag.
    1. Installation is the reverse of removal, but note these points:
    1. Check the transaxle oil seal for damage and replace it if necessary.
    2. Replace the clips at the inner ends of the driveshaft or cross-shaft where they are locked into the differential gears in the transaxle.
    3. Install the shafts into the transaxle carefully to avoid damage to the oil seal. Push the joint in on the differential side. Check the differential gears for alignment before attempting to install the shafts. If they are not aligned, turn them with your finger, as necessary.
    4. After installation, pull the hub forward to make sure the driveshaft remains locked in the transaxle.
    5. Install a new locknut onto the outer end of the driveshaft, adjusting wheel bearings as described in . Crimp the tabs over after they are aligned with the groove in the driveshaft.
    6. Tighten the stabilizer bar link nut until 1 in. (25mm) of thread is exposed.
    7. Torque the lower control arm-to-ball joint nut and bolt to 32-40 ft. lbs. (43-54 Nm).
    8. Torque the control link for the lower arm and stabilizer bar to 9-13 ft. lbs. (12-18 Nm); except for the 1988-89 626s and MX-6s on which it should be 12-17 ft. lbs. (16-23 Nm).
    9. Refill the differential with fresh fluid meeting proper specifications.
  • Thanks for using FixYa - a FixYa rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

    Apr 10, 2009 | 1986 Mazda 323

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