I put ina clutch and pressure plate in a 1987 Ford Ranger, 4_wheel Drive truck. Since I assembled everything back together it seems like something has got unhooked or something. The truck won't run by itself without giving it gas. As far as the transmission goes it seems to be doing fine. Its a 2.9 V-6, I have put a fuel pressure regulator and a fuel filter but it seems to be doing the same thing. I was wondering if you ahd seen this before or had any ideas on what causes this to happen. I would appreciate any help you could give me in this matter.
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Re: Ford Ranger Repair
Normally, failure ot vehicle to propel forward in idle is indication of off ignition timing. You could check that but, assuming its okay, you are left with hydraulic and internal to bell houseing mechanical. Check fluid level not too high (or low) on reservoir at far driver side firewall in engine compartment. The reservoir and lines are self bleeding. Inside on drive shaft, if spring on slave cylinder was left off or misinstalled, the drive shaft might not be fully unclutched with pedal released.But, before checking that (which would require repeat tear-down for something not most likely), check to assure that you reset clutch pedal free-play as required after clutch renewal.
In my 1987 4x4 ranger has this stupid integra switch also called the fuel safety shut off, its located inside the truck under the glove box against the firewall, there's a little white plastic switch.. press it and you should be able to start the truck... my truck did that to I finally just by passed it... no troubles now
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I'll tell you like I tell everyone else, go to the local auto parts store, spend $25 on the repair manual for your truck and in the manual is a step by step procedure for replacing the clutch, P plate and bearing. This all entails removing the transmission. And a 1989 has a hydraulic clutch,and the slave cylinder is internal if I'm not mistaken, so why you have the trans removed you should also replace the slave cylinder because it'll be just your luck after you get it all back together the slave starts to leak.
The 1st step is to loosen your bell housing bolts and drop your starter.
The remove your drive shafts the front drive shaft will slide out from
the front and then pull it back to the rear. Then you must take your
shifter lose from the Trans not the diff. then drop your cross member.
Do not take the transfer case lose from the trans. If you can help it.
You will then remove the trans. And unbolt the pressure plate. And
everything should come off, make sure when you reinstall the clutch
plate that you make sure the side that said to fly wheel is against the
fly wheel. Make sure you tighten the pressure plate and clutch plate up
with you line up tool all the way in and don't be afraid to tighten
down on it. Because it isn't easy getting the Trans back up in there.
The reassemble in the same order.
You will need tools and a jack and a really good strong friend.
Remove the drive shaft. Unbolt the trans from the engine and put it aside. Unbolt the pressure plate and remove. The clutch plate will fall on you. Remove the fly wheel for resurfacing.
Take everything to the auto parts place that has a machine shop.
Get the flywheel resurfaced. Purchase a new/rebuilt clutch plate and rebuilt pressure plate. Get a new throw out bearing. Also get a clutch plate alignment tool while you are there.
When you get all the stuff together, reassemble it.
Put the fly wheel back in ... becareful of the starter. Add the clutch plate and the pressure plate. Use the alignment tool. Bolt it all back to proper torque spece. You will have to ask at the auto parts place for the torque specs. Oh yea, you will need a torque wrench for this.
Put the trans back in. You should probably change the universal joints while you are at it, front and rear.
Or - you could have a shop do this for about $500.00 to $1,000.00 and save on the band aids.
Chances are the linkage for the transfer case is out of adjustment try loosening the adjuster bolt and put the 4WD shifter into the position 4WD high or low (depending upon which position it's lockup in) then lock down the adjuster bolt, try to shift out of 4wd sometimes you need to go forward and backward with the vehicle to get it out of 4wd, when you get it out of 4wd you may have to fine tune the adjustment to get it to engage and disengage smoothly it's a trial and error thing keep resetting adjuster until you get the desired effect.
Remove drive shaft,remove crossmember under transmission.Remove transmission and diconnect linkage.Remove bell housing,and clutch berring assembely.Remove bolts on pressure plate.Once this is done.Remove fly wheel for machineing.you will need a pilot shaft to alighn clutch assemblely.Possible one will come with new clutch and pressure plate.Reverse assemblely in same order remember to torque all your bolts with torque wrench.Take your time.
For the information given, and assuming forr a 94 it has a bunch of miles, I would bet on a slipping clutch along with a pressure plate that is glazed over. I doubt the transfer case, that's just a chain drive mechanism with nothing much to slip in there. In 2 wheel drive the transfer case drives pretty much straight through and shouldn't add to the problem.
If the clutch has over 80K on it, replace and resurface the pressure plate at the same time.
Does the clutch pedal have about 1/4" of play before it begins to engage? If not adjust the clutch play 1st and see if that helps.
Let me know if you have a further symptoms to share.