Question about 1994 Ford F250 Supercab
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I replaced the malfunctioning “thermal actuator” with the “Warn” Vacuum actuator setup, it’s been working great for about 7 years now, simple install, if I remember correctly, it was about $150.
That’s what engages the front diff into 4wd.
Posted on Nov 25, 2008
SOURCE: 4 wheel drive
on the right side of differential there's an axle tube that goes to the right side half shaft, the 4wd actuator is on top of that tube, i believe in 93 it is still freon charged so it can go away slowly and when it is cold, just unplug the wire and unscrew, you can update to an electric actuator, but on some models you need to grind the axle tube a little
Posted on May 15, 2008
go to (autozone.com) and sign up for free to get access to parts prices & repair manuals with pictures for what you need.
Posted on Aug 25, 2009
#2 = Hub assembly.
It is a pretty simple process and yes you need to mess with the CV but not much. An impact wrench will make removing the large nut holding the axle in the hub/bearing a whole lot easier. If you have one great, if not, it would be best to try loosening the nut while the car is on the ground. If your car has steel rims with hubcaps(MAGS, I'd put on the spare for this part), start by removing the hubcap then remove the cotter pin that goes through the threaded part of the axle and keeps the nut from coming loose. You may want to spray on some WD-40 and let it soak a little before u start. A breaker bar and socket work well, if u have just a rachet, try to find a 4 foot metal / aluminum tube (old tent pole) and slip it over the handle to give you some more torque to loosen the nut. Once loose, back the nut off and push on the axle shaft to see if it moves, probably won't, so more WD-40. You can raise and support the car, remove the wheel and brake caliper and rotor, that should be plenty of time for the WD-40 to work. Try moving it again, if it moves great, if not, hammer time. If you have a large puch or something comparable use it, you really don't want to damage threads. Leave the nut on the axle just in case you do hit the thread, when the axle is moving, take the nut off and this will straighten out the thread if it was damaged. Only thing left now is to remove the 4 bolts holding on the HUB/BEARING assembly. Once they're out it should slide off the axle with out any problems. Slide on the new one and bolt it back together. ONE CAUTION to note DO NOT MOVE THE CAR IF THE AXLE NUT ISN'T TIGHT, YOU'LL SCRAP THE BEARING!!! Here is a link just to show you what the hub assembly looks like from both sides. Hope this is of some help.
Posted on Nov 28, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Feb 08, 2015 | 1995 Chevrolet Blazer
Jul 04, 2014 | 2003 Ford Expedition
Jan 20, 2012 | 2000 Isuzu Rodeo
Mar 03, 2011 | 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
Nov 19, 2010 | 2002 Nissan Sentra
Nov 05, 2010 | 1995 Dodge Ram 2500
May 21, 2010 | 1994 Buick Skylark
May 12, 2010 | 2003 Ford Explorer
Apr 13, 2009 | 1995 Chevrolet K1500
2,355 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: