Question about 1994 Ford F250 Supercab

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I am looking for an exploded view of the front part of the 4 wheel drive system

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  • Ford Master
  • 4,369 Answers

There are 2, here's one.

Dana 44-IFS Front Drive Axle, Bronco and F-150 4x4 with Automatic Hub Locks


I am looking for an exploded view of the front - snorkelbobby_5.gif

Posted on Nov 12, 2010

  • gerry bissi Nov 12, 2010


    Dana 50-IFS Front Drive Axle, F-250 HD 4x4 with Automatic Locking Hubs




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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 1993 Chevy 1500 pickup 4-wheel drive

I replaced the malfunctioning “thermal actuator” with the “Warn” Vacuum actuator setup, it’s been working great for about 7 years now, simple install, if I remember correctly, it was about $150.
That’s what engages the front diff into 4wd.

Posted on Nov 25, 2008

chiquititas
  • 1010 Answers

SOURCE: 4 wheel drive

on the right side of differential there's an axle tube that goes to the right side half shaft, the 4wd actuator is on top of that tube, i believe in 93 it is still freon charged so it can go away slowly and when it is cold, just unplug the wire and unscrew, you can update to an electric actuator, but on some models you need to grind the axle tube a little

Posted on May 15, 2008

  • 246 Answers

SOURCE: Looking for Diagram of a Dana-44 Front Axle.

Try this: http://broncograveyard.com/images/addon/73dana44.jpg

Posted on Aug 03, 2009

motor1258
  • 6674 Answers

SOURCE: Need exploded view of front hub 1995 GMC 3/4 ton 4wd

go to (autozone.com) and sign up for free to get access to parts prices & repair manuals with pictures for what you need.

Posted on Aug 25, 2009

  • 43 Answers

SOURCE: I need an exploded view diagram to see how the

db7ecae.gif#2 = Hub assembly.
It is a pretty simple process and yes you need to mess with the CV but not much. An impact wrench will make removing the large nut holding the axle in the hub/bearing a whole lot easier. If you have one great, if not, it would be best to try loosening the nut while the car is on the ground. If your car has steel rims with hubcaps(MAGS, I'd put on the spare for this part), start by removing the hubcap then remove the cotter pin that goes through the threaded part of the axle and keeps the nut from coming loose. You may want to spray on some WD-40 and let it soak a little before u start. A breaker bar and socket work well, if u have just a rachet, try to find a 4 foot metal / aluminum tube (old tent pole) and slip it over the handle to give you some more torque to loosen the nut. Once loose, back the nut off and push on the axle shaft to see if it moves, probably won't, so more WD-40. You can raise and support the car, remove the wheel and brake caliper and rotor, that should be plenty of time for the WD-40 to work. Try moving it again, if it moves great, if not, hammer time. If you have a large puch or something comparable use it, you really don't want to damage threads. Leave the nut on the axle just in case you do hit the thread, when the axle is moving, take the nut off and this will straighten out the thread if it was damaged. Only thing left now is to remove the 4 bolts holding on the HUB/BEARING assembly. Once they're out it should slide off the axle with out any problems. Slide on the new one and bolt it back together. ONE CAUTION to note DO NOT MOVE THE CAR IF THE AXLE NUT ISN'T TIGHT, YOU'LL SCRAP THE BEARING!!! Here is a link just to show you what the hub assembly looks like from both sides. Hope this is of some help.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PAIR-GALANT-FRONT-WHEEL-HUB-BEARING-96-97-98-99-00-01_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem45eebc4965QQitemZ300358060389QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Posted on Nov 28, 2009

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3 Answers

How do you shift a 1995 blazer into 4 wheel drive


Hey Gilbert ,it should be easy sitting in drivers seat all the way forward is 2wd down one is 4wd high next one down is netural and last one down is 4wd low on older cars you may have to roll a little forward and roll a little in reverse to get it to in gauge , the sane when taking it out of 4wd
hope this helped you , good luck
Woody

Feb 08, 2015 | 1995 Chevrolet Blazer

1 Answer

Why does my 4 wheel drive not work all the time?


Elaine,

not work, do tell what makes you think it dont work (a lamp) or tires slipping or dead tires. (by tires mean that and traction)??????????

what mode fails, of the many, and where.???????



first off, we dont know what your tires are touching.

on road, or off road. pavement or ICE or snow.

that matters big time . (you read manual and match MODE to Road)

your lost operators guide explains all that, right?

eg: how and when to use, 4wd, its all there. I promise.

ControlTrac 4-wheel-drive system



here are the mode. which one , gives you problems.



quote ford with comments.



What are the modes, and how do they differ?

(note this is the operational behavior of a 2008 Ford Expedition. Newer and older Expeditions will vary only slightly)



2H 2-wheel-drive with high range gearing (1.00:1) Rear-wheel-drive capability,

2-wheel electronic traction control system is enabled



4A 4-wheel-drive Auto with high range gearing (1.00:1) Full-time all-wheel-drive capability, ((best on pavement or any time)

Electronically adjusted torque split to front & rear wheels, Electronically variable center differential,

Front driveshaft & rear primary driveshaft allowed rotational speed difference,

4-wheel electronic traction control system is enabled



4H 4-wheel-drive with high range gearing (1.00:1) Part-time 4-wheel-drive capability, (not for dry pavement EVER)

Continuous 50/50 torque split to front & rear wheels, Electronically locked center differential,

Front driveshaft & rear primary driveshaft mechanically locked with no rotational speed difference,

4-wheel electronic traction control system is enabled



4L 4-wheel-drive with low range gearing (2.64:1) Part-time 4-wheel-drive capability, (off road usage, mostly)

Continuous 50/50 torque split to front & rear wheels, Electronically locked center differential,

Front driveshaft & rear primary driveshaft mechanically locked with no rotational speed difference,

4-wheel electronic traction control system is enabled, ESC and RSC are disabled



In 4A mode the center differential is electronically-controlled and rear drive wheel bias. The on-board computer monitors for any sign of rear drive wheel slip (loss of traction)

If loss of traction is detected, the center differential is told to send a share of the engine\'s torque to the front drive wheels. It will not let the front driveshaft turn at the same speed as the rear driveshaft.



What about traction management?

1997-2002 model Ford Expeditions offered an optional limited-slip rear differential (LSD). A conventional open rear differential was standard along with the conventional open front differential and the electronic locking center differential.

comment with out LSD, one tire can spin, on say ice.

but the other 3 tires dont, in full time.

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4 wheel drive not working won't engage front


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1 Answer

Need to remove heater A/C dash control , what is proper procedure?


Look at fig. 4 for the heater a/c dash control: HEATER CORE Altima REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
  1. Position the steering wheel in the straight-ahead position.
  2. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
  3. Disconnect the negative (() battery cable; then, the positive (+) battery cable. NOTE: Wait for a least 3 minutes after disconnecting the battery cables for the charge in the air bag circuit to dissipate before working on the air bag module(s).
  4. Remove the driver's side SRS and steering wheel by removing or disconnecting the following:
    • Lower lid from the steering wheel and disconnect the driver's air bag module connector
    • Left and right side lids from the steering wheel
    • Special bolts from both side of the steering wheel using a tamper resistant Torx wrench (T50)
    • Air bag module and store it face up
    • Horn's electrical connector and remove the steering wheel nut
    • Steering wheel from the steering column using a suitable puller
  5. Remove the passenger's side SRS by removing or disconnecting the following:
    • Glove box door and the glove box
    • Front passenger's air bag module connector
    • 2 special bolts using a tamper resistant Torx wrench (T50)
    • 4 passenger's air bag-to-instrument panel nuts
    • Front passenger's air bag module and store it face up.
  6. Drain the cooling system into a clean container for reuse.
  7. Discharge and recover the air conditioning system refrigerant.
  8. Working in the engine compartment, disconnect the heater hoses from the heater core tubes.
  9. Remove the instrument panel by removing or disconnecting the following:
    • Kick plate and dash side finisher on the driver's side
    • 2 lower panel-to-instrument panel screws and the lower panel on the driver's side
    • 2 lower reinforcement panel-to-instrument panel screws and the lower reinforcement panel
    • 6 steering column cover screws, the covers, the spiral cable and combination switch
    • 2 cluster lid "A" screws and the cluster lid "A"
    • 3 combination meter screws, disconnect the electrical harness connector and remove the combination meter
    • Switch panel
    • Instrument panel lower covers
    • Snap out the transmission shifter finisher (boot)
    • 4 cluster lid "C" screws and the cluster lid "C"
    • 4 audio and deck pocket-to-instrument panel screws and the audio and deck pocket
    • 5 center console screws and the center console
    • 2 center instrument panel screws and the center panel
    • front defroster grilles
    • Front pillar garnish
    • Instrument panel 3 nuts/4 screws and the instrument panel
    • 8 instrument stay assembly nuts and the stay
    • Steering member assembly 5 nuts/1 bolt and the steering member
  10. Remove the air conditioning housing assembly by removing or disconnecting the following:
    • Refrigerant lines from the air conditioning housing assembly
    • Thermo control amp
    • Air conditioning housing assembly
  11. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Heater unit
    • Heater core from the heater unit Fig. 1: Exploded view of the steering wheel and air bag module 93112gd9.gif
      Fig. 2: Exploded view of the passenger's side air bag module 93112gd0.gif
      Fig. 3: Exploded view of the instrument panel assembly 93112ge1.gif
      Fig. 4: Exploded view of the heater housing assembly and related components 93112ge2.gif
      Fig. 5: View of the heater core and heater housing 93112ge3.gif
    To install:
  12. Install or connect the following:
    • Heater core to the heater unit
    • Heater unit
  13. Install the air conditioning housing assembly by installing or connecting the following:
    • Air conditioning housing assembly
    • Thermo control amp
    • Refrigerant lines to the air conditioning housing assembly
  14. Install the instrument panel by installing or connecting the following:
    • Steering member assembly and the steering member 5 nuts/1 bolt
    • Instrument stay assembly and the 8 stay nuts
    • Instrument panel and the instrument panel 3 nuts/4 screws
    • Front pillar garnish
    • Front defroster grilles
    • Center instrument panel and the 2 center panel screws
    • Center console and the 5 center console screws
    • Audio and deck pocket and the 4 audio and deck pocket-to-instrument panel screws
    • Cluster lid "C" and the 4 cluster lid "C" screws
    • Snap in the transmission shifter finisher (boot)
    • Instrument panel lower covers
    • Switch panel
    • Combination meter, connect the electrical harness connector and install the 3 combination meter screws
    • Cluster lid "A" and the 2 cluster lid "A" screw
    • Combination switch, the spiral cable, the covers and the 6 steering column cover screws
    • Lower reinforcement panel and the 2 lower reinforcement panel-to-instrument panel screws
    • Lower panel and the 2 lower panel-to-instrument panel screws, on the driver's side
    • Kick plate and dash side finisher, on the driver's side
  15. Working in the engine compartment, connect the heater hoses to the heater core tubes.
  16. Install the passenger's side SRS by installing or connecting the following:
    • Front passenger's air bag module
    • 4 passenger's air bag-to-instrument panel nuts
    • 2 new special bolts and torque using a tamper resistant Torx wrench (T50) to 11-18 ft. lbs. (15-25 Nm)
    • Front passenger's air bag module connector
    • Glove box door and the glove box
  17. Install the driver's side SRS and steering wheel by installing or connecting the following:
    • Steering wheel to the steering column
    • Steering wheel nut and torque the nut to 22-29 ft. lbs.
    • Horn's electrical connector
    • Air bag module
    • New special bolts to both sides of the steering wheel and torque the bolts using a tamper resistant Torx wrench (T50) to 11-18 ft. lbs. (15-25 Nm).
    • Both the left and right side lids to the steering wheel
    • Lower lid to the steering wheel and connect the driver's air bag module connector
  18. Refill the cooling system.
  19. Connect the positive (+) battery cable; then, the negative (() battery cable.
  20. Evacuate, charge and leak test the air conditioning system refrigerant.
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1 Answer

Need exploded view of 1995 dodge 2500 left front u-joint removal process. How does main bearing race come off?


FRONT DRIVE AXLE Hubs and Bearings REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Models 44, 60, 70 and 80 with Manual or Automatic Locking Hubs
  1. Raise the vehicle and install jackstands.
  2. Refer to Manual or Automatic Free Running Hub Removal and Installation and remove the hub assemblies. Fig. 1: Remove the outer locknut on the Model 60/70 front drive axle 88477g63.gif

  3. Remove the wheel bearing lock nut, using a hub nut wrench.
  4. Remove the lock ring from the bearing adjusting nut. This can be done with your finger tips or a screwdriver. Fig. 2: Exploded view of the front hub retaining hardware 88471109.gif

  5. Using a hub nut wrench remove the bearing adjusting nut.
  6. Remove the caliper and suspend it out of the way (see the brake section).
  7. Slide the hub and disc assembly off the spindle. The outer wheel bearing will slide out as the hub is removed, so be prepared to catch it. To install:
  8. Carefully position the hub and disc assembly on the spindle.
  9. Install the outer bearing cone and roller, and the adjusting nut. NOTE: The adjusting nut has a small dowel on one side. This dowel faces outward to engage the locking ring.
  10. Using a hub nut wrench tighten the bearing adjustment nut to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm), while rotating the wheel back and forth to seat the bearings.
  11. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 90°.
  12. Install the lock ring by turning the nut to the nearest hole and inserting the dowel pin. NOTE: The dowel pin must seat in a lock ring hole for proper bearing adjustment and wheel retention.
  13. Install the outer lock nut and tighten to 50-80 ft. lbs. (68-108 Nm). Final end-play of the wheel on the spindle should be 0.001-0.010 in. (0.025-0.25mm).
  14. Assemble the hub parts.
  15. Install the caliper.
  16. Remove the jackstands and lower the vehicle.
Model 44 With Full-Time 4-Wheel Drive
  1. Remove the wheel cover.
  2. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the axle shaft nut. Fig. 3: Remove the wheel bearing adjusting nut from the Model 44 front axle 88477g64.gif

  3. Raise the support the front end on jackstands.
  4. Remove the wheels. Fig. 4: Exploded view of the Model 44 wheel bearing adjusting nut, retaining washer and locknut in their correct relationship 88477g65.gif

  5. Unbolt the caliper and support it out of the way. DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BRAKE LINE!
  6. Remove the inboard brake pad.
  7. Remove the axle shaft nut and washer.
  8. Through the hole provided in the rotor, remove the six retainer bolts.
  9. Position pull C-4358, or equivalent, over the wheel lugs and install the lug nuts. Tighten the main screw of the puller to remove the hub, bearings, retainer and outer seal as an assembly.
  10. Insert a prybar through the U-joint and wedge the shaft inward as far as it will go. Make sure that it is wedged securely and can't be moved.
  11. Install the hub, rotor and bearing assembly and tighten the retainer bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) in a crisscross pattern.
  12. Install the brake adapter. Tighten the bolts to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm).
  13. Remove the prybar form the U-joint.
  14. Install the axle shaft nut and tighten it to 100 ft. lbs. (136 Nm), then continue tightening it to align the cotter pin holes. Install the cotter pin.
  15. Using the lube fitting, fill the knuckle with NLGI, Grade 2, multi-purpose EP grease until the grease is seen flowing through the inner seal. Fig. 5: Lubrication fitting location on the rotor top hat 88477g69.gif

  16. Install the inner brake pad and caliper (see Section 9).
  17. Install the wheels and tighten the lug nuts to 110 ft. lbs. (150 Nm).
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Nov 05, 2010 | 1995 Dodge Ram 2500

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I need an exploded view of the driver side brake and wheel assembly for parts replacement


email me at iambanshee74@yahoo.com and which wheels, front or back? Which parts do you wish to replace?

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Steering wheel shudders when turning left 03 ford explorer


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When I accelerate it feels like the brakes are being applied.


sounds like your emergancy cable is out of adj!!!!!

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Auto free hub pajero 1987


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