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Here's what I found on Yahoo answers: For the driver's side: yes, you will have to raise the motor. On all models, remove the front motor mount, Mark the position of the right engine mount, remove 3 right engine to mount bolts. remove one right engine mount to body nut. On all models hold the strut shaft with an 8 mm allen wrench, loosen top retaining nut 5 turns. Raise vehicle, remove ball joint to steering knuckle pinch bolt. seperate control arm ball joints from steering knuckle. Do NOT damage ball joint seal. Remove pinch bolt attaching steering knuckle to strut. Slide steering knuckle up on strut, Move transaxle to gain access to control arm nuts and bolts. remove 2 nuts and bolts and attaching control arm to subframe. Lifting up control arm remove. Now this to mark the motor mount because you are supposed to use a powertrain alignment guage when putting back together. if not you can bind the motor in the unibody and make for a shaky ride. that drivers side lower control arm calls for 4.3 hours where as the passenger side calls for 1.3 hours. So you can see what your in for. BTW these instructions are taken straight from the Ford repair manual.
The timing belt diagrams are listed in detail with figures and procedure to remove them.
REPLACING TIMING BELT ON A 2003 HYUNDAI TIBURON 2.7L V6
1. Remove passenger side headlight via the 3 10mm screws holding it in place and disconnect the turn signal and main harness
2. Remove passenger side tire
3. Remove the splash guard via 2 10mm screws at the top of the guard
4. Remove the 2 17mm bolts and 2 17mm nuts from motor mount bar
5. You may have to separate the mount bar from the motor via either a
chisel or flathead screwdriver and a hammer ( support engine via a jack
and a piece of plywood under oil pan )
6. Use a 3/8 ratchet ( or a long breaker bar would work better ) to
remove the serpentine belt ( remember the route ). Disconnect the power
steering hose from the pump and secure back with a zip tie. Remove the
power steering pulley with a pry bar and 19mm socket.
7. Hand turn the crankshaft via a 22mm socket to TDC ( top dead center, marked on lower timing belt cover )
8. Remove the serpentine belt tensioner via 2 12mm bolts on each side
9. Remove the upper timing belt cover via 7 10mm screws
10. Remove crankshaft pulley ( 22mm ) with an air impact gun ( an electric one will work too )
11. Remove lower timing belt cover via 4 more 10mm screws
12. Remove the motor mount from the block via 3 14mm bolts and 2 12mm
bolts ( there is a 12mm holding the oil dipstick bracket towards the
front of the car )
13. Remove the auto tensioner via 2 12mm bolts
14. Remove the timing belt
15. Make sure your timing markings are correct...
There is one marking on each cam gear and on the heads ( head markings
are small, look closely...try wiping the edge of the head down with a
rag and some brake cleaner to bring it out more ) They are also
pictured in last pic.
When the crankshaft is in the TDC position, the cam gear markings should both line up at the same time with the head markings
Adjust if necessary, use a 17mm socket to turn cam gears to correct position
16. Install new timing belt ( as you install it, make sure to keep a little tension on the belt as you route it )
17. Install new auto tensioner and pull pin
18. Install just the lower timing belt cover
19. Install the crankshaft pulley
20. Hand turn the crankshaft atleast 5 times to verify the timing
markings are lining up properly ( all should line up at the same time
when the crankshaft pulley mark is in the TDC position )
21. Remove crankshaft pulley
22. Remove lower timing belt cover
23. Reverse steps 12 - 1
You can refer the videos below for further assistance.Your valuable feedback would be appreciated.Thanks for choosing Fixya.
Raise and safely support the vehicle securely on jackstands.
Remove the terminal nuts, washers, and electrical leads from the
Remove the passenger side catalytic converter.
Remove the passenger side engine mount nuts, and lower the
Disconnect the resonance chamber-to-throttle body ducts.
Detach the electrical connector for the Mass Air Flow (MAF) and
the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensors.
Disconnect the resonance chamber air intake hose from the air
cleaner housing and MAF sensor.
Remove the (IAC) inlet hose and the intake plenum air inlet hoses.
Detach the electrical connector from the switchover valve and the
remaining vacuum connections.
Install the engine support fixture J28467-A with adapters
J28467-450 or equivalents and raise the passenger side of the engine.
Passenger side of the engine must be raised approximately 1.5
inches (38 mm).
Raise and safely support the vehicle securely on jackstands.
Remove the engine mount from the engine mount bracket and cradle.
Remove the engine mount bracket bolts and reposition the bracket.
Remove the starter motor from the vehicle.
Install the starter motor to the vehicle and tighten the bolts to
44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm).
Position the engine mount bracket and install the bolts. Tighten
to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
Install the engine mount to the engine mount bracket and cradle.
Partially lower the vehicle.
Lower the engine. Have an assistant guide the engine mount into
place while lowering the engine. The engine mount locator tab must
engage the slot in the cradle.
Reinstall the resonance chamber-to-throttle body ducts.
Raise the vehicle.
Install the passenger side engine mount nuts. Tighten the upper
nut to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm). Tighten the lower nut to 41 ft. lbs. (55
Install the passenger side catalytic converter.
Plug in the electrical leads, install the washers, and terminal
nuts to the starter motor. Tighten the battery cable terminal nut to 115
inch lbs. (13 Nm). And the solenoid terminal nut to 35 inch lbs. (4
ok this is involved here,,,if youre doing it on the floor you gonna have a harder time,,,there is 2 ways to do this the first gives you more room to swap the clutch but you remove more stuff to gain that extra room,meaning more time,,,,the second is the way i would do it,,,remove the battery and tray,remove the top trans bolts and connectors etc, remove wheels and drivers side axle,you can remove the passenger side axle if you wish,it makes it easier if youre a first timer,,,go under car remove exhaust bolts from where header meets pipe,3, nuts, 13mm header,remove top trans mount and lower trans mount and loosen the passenger side subframe bolts 18mm and take out the 2 drivefrs side subframe bolt,BEFORE you do this suport the engine somehow either with chain and bar from top or jack under it,,the jack sucks as it gets in yuor way,,then slide the trans off the engine over to the side and it should kinda tuck in there you might have to strap it there while you swap the clutch,,,ALSO remove the reverse light switch first so you dont break it trying to tuck the trans aside,,then swap the clutch,,,this is the quicker way but tighter and harder if you dont know what is going on,,the other way is all the same but you remove the lower subframe completely from the car,,this requiresm more work,,,,steering shaft bolt removal,,,lower control arm nuts,etc,you choose
1. Upper engine mount located on the passenger side of the engine. Get this at the dealer, aftermarket, especially Anchor brand are garbage.
2. Lower engine mount, often refered to as a "dog bone" mount because of its shape. This one is located on the lower passenger side. You'll have to remove some splash shields to get to it. Aftermarket is OK.
3. Upper transmission mount, also refered to as a "dog bone" mount. Located under the battery.Aftermarket is OK.
4. Lower transmission mount. Located under the transmission. As with the top engine mount, dealer is better quality.
The two dogbone mounts usualy last a very long time, its the others that fail over time. Especially the upper one.
Yes. Put a jack under the motor and remove 3 bolts from side of engine and the long center pivot bolt in mount and the 2 bolts that go top down into the frame and loosen the 2 bolts below mount. Jack up the motor until you can separate the mount, leaving the engine side in and removing the frame side. The engine side can be moved out of the way without completely removing.
i had 1 done and let me just say 2 bolts are very easy but that dam bolt on the top is a taugh 1 thats why i had mine done cause i watch the mechanic and it took him almost an hour to do so if u can afford it let them do it