Question about 1999 Mercury Grand Marquis
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Raise car under frame then put jack under axle before removing the shock.
Can use locking pliers to hold the shaft from turning (may have to cut away dust boots). Top nuts are accessed and can be seen from the wheel wells or from the gap between the trunk and mount frame (can't see nut from this angle). Take care with fuel lines near the driver side nut.
Preventing shafts from turning on new shocks will be tough. Make sure you have a proper tool to fit top of shaft with enough room between top of shaft and trunk (gap decreases as the nut is tightened) so the tool can be removed.
Posted on Mar 30, 2009
I'm not sure if yours is identical to mine since yours is second gen and mine is third gen, but with mine (1998 MGM), the heat was stuck on all the time. Full heat would practically cook your feet and you couldn't shut it off.
It was a servo/servo arm that controls the hot/cold mix door. The part was $15. The labor was $700. They had to take the entire dash out of the car to get at the part. Required two more visits due to a missed electrical connection to a daylight sensor and a vacuum issue that made the car stall when put into reverse.
My car had 150K on it at the time. Has 165K on it now. Still runs great and looks great. It's now my wife's auto and I drive a 2006 MGM.
Posted on May 13, 2009
There are eight COPs (coil-on-plugs) to remove. Using a 7mm or 9/32" socket, remove each bolt securing each COP to the intake manifold on top of the engine. Remove all eight COPs, and the spark plugs are underneath. When replacing the spark plugs, use only the proper Ford/Motorcraft plugs, even if they cost twice as much as the aftermarket ones. You will avoid further headaches this way. Hope this helps.
Posted on Mar 30, 2010
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