Question about 2002 Chevrolet Tahoe

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What is the differnce of a Lt autoride and a Lt

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The LT is an option package (on 2001, the most luxorious like leather seats, heated seats, sunroof etc). The LT Autoride is the LT option package that also includes the Auto Leveling Air Suspension. When you load the vehicle with weight (either cargo or by attaching a trailer to the hitch and that weight lowers the vehicles height below the normal ride height, a compressor kicks in (if the compressor is still working) and fills the air shocks up with air back to a normal ride height (it auto levels the vehicle). Once the weight is removed, the system automatically releases air from the rear shocks back to normal riding height.

Posted on Jun 28, 2012

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The lt autoride has self adjusting shocks, and the regular lt doesn't. if you look the autoride has airlines going to the shocks.

Posted on Nov 08, 2010

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2006 tahoe autoride not working


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Back autoride shocks are leaking, compressor kicks on and off. What is the solution


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Dec 10, 2009 | 2002 Chevrolet Suburban

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My autoride suspension on 2001 surburban only seems to work in tow haul mode. i cant hear the compressor but it handles much better in this mode if you dont use tow haul it is really soft in the corners...


The autoride is likely coupled with the tow/haul function. When towing, you want firmer suspension, tighter cornering, less sway, along with the firmer transmission shift and different shift points. This helps keep you from tipping the vehicle when you have a high load because the suspension swayed too far. The vehicle is supposed to be a luxury vehicle, so this changing characteristic allows it to ride smoother and softer when you don't need the trucklike suspension.

Nov 29, 2009 | 2005 GMC Yukon Xl Denali

1 Answer

Why is my autoride not kicking in when I attach my trailer


The autoride system has three main parts. The first is the very large, complex shock absorber that has not only a sensor to detect shaft travel in the shock but also has an air ride feature that allows more air to be added into the shock and bladder system to increase the support to the rear end. The shock can go bad ($623.00 each MSRP, though you can get them from Monroe for about 250.00-check Amazon.com but be prepared to wait, they have been on backorder recently.) The control module can go bad....check everything else first...or the air pump can go bad.

Are you getting any malfunction codes...Service Ride System?

The most common failure is the bladder of the Shock...check it...it is easily visible from the rear of the vehicle. If the bladder is blown it is usually grossly blown.

Jul 06, 2009 | 2001 Chevrolet Tahoe

6 Answers

My autoride suspension is not working


A ton of things could be wrong with your autoride system. If you have more than about 70k miles and haven't replaced the rear shocks ($500+ EACH!!! at the dealer), then they are probably leaking out. If they leak out, then the air compressor will always run. Eventually the air compressor/ride level sensor module (located on the driver side rear wheel on the inboard side of the frame, $300+ at the dealer) burns out because it's not designed to run at 100% duty cycles. After the air compressor burns out, the Electronic Stability Control module (in an XL, located inside the passenger side rear wheelwell trim, next to the third row seat, $300+ at the dealer) will probably short out. If your autoride isn't working and you don't get a "Service Stability" message, your ESC module is probably going bad.

It is possible to convert to regular shocks, but to keep the Stability Control (still has to control your brakes and front variable dampening shocks during "evasive" maneuvers), you have to insert some 1/4 watt resistors in to the ride height sensor connectors (can't remember what values, but I'm sure you can Google that) so that the Stability system doesn't throw a code. Not that it matters, but the message can get annoying if it's always there to nag...

My dealer quoted over $2500 to replace the entire system. I figure I can find the control modules from my local junkyard for $300, and the shocks from ebay for $350 for the pair. Be sure to match all of the GM part numbers, and keep an eye out for an upgraded Air Compressor module - GM released an update that is heavier duty and more water-resistant than the first design. I don't remember the part number, but my dealer included the upgrade with my quote.

Oh, and the only "easy" way to test the modules is with a Tech 2 tool. Otherwise it's lots of testing with a 12-volt source and a couple of multimeters and oscilliscopes...

Good luck!

Sep 03, 2008 | 2005 GMC Yukon Xl Denali

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