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Hi again i found this info on rod & crank clearance 5.9 Cummings .002 to .004 U can always check clearance with plastiguage just to make sure hope this helps GOOD LUCK. only thing i could find was bigend side clearance min .004 max .013in crankshaft end clearance min .004 max.017. ,TRY RINGING CUMMINGS 03 9765 3222 or 03 9360 0800. Good luck....Cummings 6B, 6BT, 6BTA Main Bearing bolts 176 Nm, 130 lb.ft. Con rod 102 Nm, 74 lb.ft. Cylinder head bolts 126 Nm 93 lb.ft ...... Cheers
which one, there are many bolts,
do you mean the end of the crank shaft, front , damper pulley bolt
are you test spinning engine? or taking the bolt off or on.>?
the treads on all bolts this engine are RHT, right hand thread bar stool: righty tighty; lefty loosy
no engine, size stated, but this works.
crank case? pan, bell, crank, head bolts. fly wheel? lots.
They'd be right hand threads-regular threads-to loosen, turn counter clockwise. An air impact wrench is best for removing the crank bolt. Or a long breaker bar and socket on the bolt, if you can hold the crankshaft stable so it doesn't turn backward with pressure on the bolt. You can pull the starter off, and wedge a big screwdriver or prybar against the flywheel's ring gear teeth, then turn the bolt with the breaker bar.
if it has a crank sensor, take a serious look at that, top of gearbox two 10mm spanner size bolts holding it to the engine. very common on Renaults. put it on a diagnostic, check the RPM signal when cranking. if the ECU doent know the engine is turning it cant fire.
No, there is no direct oil feed to the gudgeon pin. There is a cross drilling on the upper half of the bigend of the conrod that allows oil to be sprayed upwards at the right moment to both lubricate and cool the piston. It sounds more like you have piston slap (excessive piston to bore clearance) that will be more pronounced when the engine is cold. It's always a good idea to either let your engine warm up a little before driving, or just drive sedately until it has warmed up.
It could be small end related, but that noise is generally only noticable at that point where the load is least on the piston to conrod connection - ie: at the time where the piston pushing the conrod changes to the conrod pushing the piston, and vice-versa. Don't worry about an oil flush. Sometimes it's the carbon deposits that stop an engine making MORE rattles!