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"I bypassed the immobilizer circuit only on my alarm module (which is really tedious). Bypassing the whole
module is possible (and little easier), but you will lose the use of the remotes and the ability to arm the alarm.
The alarm module in my '97 900 SETC is located under the carpet, below the driver's power seat switches (a
pain to get at).
If you want to bypass the module completely:
1. Disconnect the battery (make sure you know the radio code-if needed)
2. Unplug the connector from alarm module and remove module from car
3. Install a wire jumper between pin 8 and pin 20 in the connector
4. Install a wire jumper between pin 9 and pin 21 in the connector
5. Install a wire jumper between pin 10 and pin 22 in the connector
6. Wrap securely with electrical tape
If you want to bypass the immobilizer circuit only:
1. Disconnect the battery (make sure you know the radio code-if needed)
2. Unplug the connector from the alarm module
3. Cut the following wires from the back of the connector and splice together as follows (Don't cut the wires too
close to the connector, because someday down the road you may want install a new module, so you'll have to
reverse this process):
4. Cut the wires to pin 8 and pin 20 and splice together w/ wire nut
5. Cut the wires to pin 9 and pin 21 and splice together w/ wire nut
6. Cut the wires to pin 10 and pin 22 and splice together w/ wire nut
7. Secure all with electrical tape
8. Reconnect the connector to the module
Not knowing the details of your problem, please be aware that this may, or may not, solve it. Good luck and let
me know how you make out."
Disconnect the Negative Battery Cable
2. Remove the air breather/cleaner and hose from between the air breather/cleaner and throttle housing
3. Remove the strain of the belt tensioner off the belt and pry off the belt
4. Remove the right front wheel
5. Remove the belt cover & Disconnect the battery Cable and the red alternator power wire.
6. Remove the two Alternator Bolts that secure the alternator to the bracket
7. Remove the three bolts that hold the header pipe up to help give room to remove the alternator
8. Remove the converter bolt from the converter bracket and mover the converter over to aid in the alternator removal
9. Refit in reverse
Working from Top down:
disconnect battery 2) not necessary to remove airfilter box but does give more breathing room for belt removal/instal 3) un-tension serpentine belt with a 1/2" drive long extension in the square of the tensioner & pull towards the front of the car to release the serpentine belt 4) lock tensioner with about a 4mm pin(Allen key will do) by pulling forward with that 1/2"drive extension & pinning the tensioner with that hole 5) remove tensioner with 8mm Allen key or drive(not necessary to remove R side engine mount & raise engine) and be careful to not knock and cause to release the tensioner-they hurt when they snap! 6) remove upper alternator bolt(8mm Allen key/drive).
Working from Bottom of the engine bay:
disconnect cables at alternator(13 & 8 mm nuts) 8) remove R wheel/inner fender skirt that covers the harmonic balancer(10 & 8 mm heads)/ tie back flex hose to strut 9) remove lower alternator bolt(8mm alley key/drive) 10) wedge/rotate out alternator of its mounts 11) disconnect exhaust pipe rubber hangers at catalytic converter and mid section of exhaust 12) you can bend(and later re-bend into position the hanger studs) (OR undo front header studs/nuts to free up the front part of the exhaust) to push over the exhaust and pull out the alternator(pulley nose down)--be careful when getting the alternator out as the downstream O2 sensor is right there(a good precaution would be to remove it)......reverse procedures to install.
spark amplifier sits on left inner fender, at front of car, its black,sits on allow plate, diamond shaped, bosch stamped on cover i think it has 10 pin connector
Your right on. Its most likely the altenator. Chances are the belt is sliping because the pully bearing is bad. Of course this all means that you are running off the battery and it is getting low. You will get stuck when you can least afford to. You must remove the altenator and replace. Oh one last thing it could very well be your water pump pully bearing. So remove fan belt and spin with your hand, if you feel resistance thats it, so remove fan belt and check before you start replacing components. Good luck
I managed to sort the problem, turns out there's a shear pin. I found this pin sitting in the bag in the back (the one the roof folds into) Now i just have to replace that and hopefully it should work
Fault codes come from the fuel injection system diagnostic circuitry, which can store up to three faults. They can be read through the check engine light in the dash. You'll need to make a switched test lead with a spade connector on one end for connecting to the test connector. The other end is connected to ground. In 1992 the test connector is located beneath rear seat in sedan, or under the bellows ahead of shifter in convertible. With ignition off and test lead off, connect test lead to ground and test connector pin 2. turn ignition key to ON When Check Engine light comes on, turn test lead switch ON; Check Engine light should immediately go out When Check Engine light flashes ONCE, IMMEDIATELY turn test lead switch OFF Any fault codes will flash through the Check Engine light, with a long flash at beginning and end of each code; code flashes are short flashes, each block of flashes is separated by a longer space. With the engne OFF, the first fault code is that for "No RPM" 1 2 2 3 1, it will look like oooo x xx xx xxx x oooo where o = steady on, x = single flash There are over 20 fault codes, so get yourself a copy of the best source of info on this car: the "Bentley Bible" aka the Saab 900 Official Service Manual, costs about $40 from Amazon 16 valve manual: http://www.amazon.com/Saab-900-Valve-Service-Manual/dp/0837603137 8 valve manual :http://www.amazon.com/Eight-Official-Service-Manual-1981-1988/dp/0837603102 Hope this helps, if it does please give a "thumbs up", thanks Saabreur
Check further up ahead of the bellows, may be in the housing for the console itself. I think there are two connectors up in there, but wait for other posts before digging further. My suggestion is only that.
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