There is not much you can do in a test as the belt does not stretch or show signs of wear that can be checked while the eingine is running. You will need to remove the belt and inspect for cracking a the base of the teeth. having said this a belt is a standard service item and by the time you have it off you amy as well just replace it and then you have no more worries.
The consequanses of a belt failure and a tow home make it easier to just swap it for your peace of mind.
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Could be all sorts of things. If the timing belts have slipped, the engine will usually not start or run really rough. Could be the crank angle sensor (under the alternator, just above the main pulley).
If the belt has slipped, you can check by pulling the cam belt covers off. Usually its the LHS side belt that's jumped. The hydraulic tensioner sometimes works loose and detensions the belt. Rotate the engine till to top dead center on the pulley, and see if the cam pulleys are at the timing marks. If the belt has slipped, you WILL have bent valves.
If you counted the flashes as you are listing them then this would be a code 33, this code 33 is defined as vechile speed sensor, this is the speed sensor and is located on the transmission, checcck the connection to the sensor and if the connector and the connection is good then i would replace the sped sensor.
It has a belt, and it is supposed to be done at 60,000 miles. It is a job but it can be done by a patient owner. You can't rush it, you will need the book, a Haynes manual or something like that. the shop will charge about 3 to $400 for it. I think the water pump gets done and the belt tensioner, not sure. Check it out, Hope this helps.
THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON TO INDICATE THAT A FAULT HAS OCCURRED IN THE ELECTRONIC ENGINE OR EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM, WHEN THIS LIGHT COMES ON A FAULT CODE IS RECORDED IN THE MEEMORY OF THE COMPUTER, YOU NEED TO HAVE THE COMPUTER SCANNED TO FIND OUT WHAT THIS FAULT CODE IS DO PROPER DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING CAN BE DONE TO CORRECT THE PROBLEM, COMMON FAULTS ARE DEFECTIVE O2 SENSORS ON THIS MODEL.
this is a coolant performance code. Usuallly sets this code if the connector was left unhooked to the coolant sensor or the thremostat is stuck open. By any chance do you have a gauge that seems to be on the cold side ??
If there are a lot of miles on the timing belt (over 60,000), the belt may have jumped several teeth due to wear causing the cam to be out of time. If the lifters go flat from oil lack, the engine will continue to run poorly, and very noisy. Check the timing marks on the cam and crankshaft to see if they are lining up properly.
These are specs for a 2.2L which will also work for the 2.5L cuz they are the same picture. Have fun and remember, if you get the timing marks wrong the on the single overhead cam(1st picture) you won't hurt the engine, you'll just have to re-time it. But, if you DO get the timing marks wrong on the duel over head cam engine(2nd picture) you will bend every single valve in both cylinder heads of that engine. If this is your first time(I have to assume it is just to be safe you see) I recommend 2 people performing this task, it's just better that way. Good luck!!!!!!! And this is the dual over head cam picture...
REMOVE BELTS FROM FRONT OF ENGINE, REMOVE COVER ON TIMING BELT, REMOVE TIMING BELT AFTER MARKING THE WHEELS WITH THE ARROWS ON THE CAM SHAFT WHEELS. WATER PUMP IS LOCATED AT BOTTOM HOSE HOUSING IT IS A COMPLETE UNIT INCLUDING CASTING. EASY TO FIT REPLACE ALL PART AND MAKE SURE TIMMING BELT IS NOT OUT OF SEQUENCE GOOD LUCK.