Question about GMC Jimmy

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Runs rough when cold,hard starting,runs better when warm,sometimes still runs rough when warm,have changed idle air control sensor,did not help

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  • houndogg53 Nov 09, 2010

    rough idle loss of power runs better when warm knocks when starting hard starting i changed idle air control sensor

  • houndogg53 Nov 09, 2010

    went to auto zone had ten codes now what

  • houndogg53 Nov 09, 2010

    po118,po155,po507,p1509,p1153,po304po152

  • houndogg53 Nov 09, 2010

    i dont know if you got these codes p1153,p0304,p0152,p0118,p0155,p0507,p1509

  • houndogg53 Nov 09, 2010

    these are the codes i got from auto zone p1509,p0507,p0155,p0118,p0152,p0304,p1153 i sent these codes a couple times without a response

  • houndogg53 Nov 10, 2010

    i have sent the codes several times no response

  • houndogg53 Nov 10, 2010

    p1509,p0507,p0118,p0115,p0152,p0304,p1153 i have sent these codes several times no response

  • houndogg53 Nov 10, 2010

    codes p1153,p0304.p0152,p0155,p0118p0507,l1509

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2 Answers

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  • Master
  • 2,299 Answers

Are you getting a check engine light? If you have a check engine light you can go to Autozone to have a diagnostics ran. They will do this for free. If you don't have a check engine light on then it is going to be a fuel problem. Not getting enough fuel pressure will cause it to run rough. So then I would check the fuel filter.

Posted on Nov 09, 2010

  • Rodney Clark
    Rodney Clark Nov 09, 2010

    What were the codes? I need to know what the 10 codes where to help you figure out which sensor is causing the problem.

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  • GMC Master
  • 17,970 Answers

Are you try to scanned the PCM? Its possible that the check engine light turn on? If this is right, any fault code is stored there?.

First try to cleaning your Idle Air Controller and your Throttle Position sensor and FUel Pressure regulator (located in the fuel injector rail).

Also, I have heard the bad intake gasket causes antifreeze to get into the oil? If so, I feel I better change it as soon as I can.

Hope helps.

Posted on Nov 08, 2010

  • 1 more comment 
  • ZJ Limited
    ZJ Limited Nov 09, 2010

    Send us this FAULT CODES, to know it.

  • ZJ Limited
    ZJ Limited Nov 10, 2010


    P0507 - Idle Air Control System RPM Higher Than Expected

    This P0507 code is one that's sometimes triggered on vehicles that have electronic
    throttle control. That is, they don't have a regular throttle cable from the
    accelerator pedal to the engine. They rely on sensors and electronics to control
    the throttle. In this case, the P0507 DTC (diagnostic trouble code) is triggered
    when the PCM (powertrain control module) detects an engine idle speed that is
    greater than the desired (pre-programmed) RPM. In the case of GM vehicles (and
    possibly others) if the idle speed is over 200 rpm higher than expected, this
    code will be set.

    Causes: A P0507 DTC trouble code may be caused by one or more of the following:


    • A vacuum leak

    • Leaking air intake after the throttle body

    • EGR valve leaking vacuum

    • A faulty positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve

    • Damaged/failed/dirty throttle body

    • Failed EVAP system

    • Failed IAC (idle air controller) or faulty IAC circuit

    Possible Solutions: This DTC is more of an informational code, so if there are any other codes
    set, diagnose them first. If there are no other codes, inspect the intake air
    system for air or vacuum leaks and damage. If there are no symptoms other than
    the DTC itself, just clear the code and see whether it returns.
    If you have an advanced scan tool that can interact with the car, command the
    idle higher and lower to see if the engine responds appropriately. Also check
    the PCV valve to see if it's blocked and needs to be replaced. Check the IAC
    (idle air controller) if equipped, verify it's operation. If available, try
    swapping in a new throttle body to see if that fixes the problem. On Nissan
    Altimas and possibly other vehicles the problem may be fixed by having the dealer
    perform an idle air relearn procedure, or other relearn procedures.



    P0115 - Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Malfunction (also P0118)
    The ECT (Engine coolant temperature) sensor is basically a thermistor that changes resistance with temperature. Usually a two wire sensor, a 5Volt reference from PCM (Powertrain Control Module) and ground signal to PCM. This is different from a temperature SENDER (which usually operates the dash temperature gauge and operates in a similar way as the SENSOR, only it's a different circuit than what a P0115 is referring to). As the temperature of the coolant changes, the resistance changes on the ground signal to the PCM. When the engine is cold, the resistance is high. When the engine is warm, the resistance is low. If the PCM detects a voltage condition that seems abnormally low or high, P0115 will set.

    Causes: Usually the cause can be traced to a bad ECT sensor, however that doesn't preclude the following:
    * Wiring or connector damaged at sensor
    * Open or short in reference or signal circuit
    * Open or short in signal circuit
    * Bad PCM

    Possible Solutions: First, visually check the sensor for damage to wiring or connector and repair as necessary. Then, if you have access to a scanner, determine what the temperature of the engine is. (If you don't have access to a scan tool, using the dash temperature gauge may not be an effective way to determine coolant temperature. This is because the P0115 code is referring to the ECT SENSOR, and the dash gauge is operated by, usually a one-wire SENDER. Basically a different sensor that the code doesn't refer to.)
    2. If the engine temperature is abnormally high, around 280 deg. F, that's abnormal. Unplug the sensor on the engine and see if the signal drops to, say, negative 50 deg. F. If it does, then it's a good bet the sensor is bad, internally shorted, causing a low resistance signal to be sent to the PCM. However if you want to be sure it's the sensor and not the wiring, there's a couple tests you can do. With the ECT sensor unplugged, check that you have 5 volts on the reference circuit with KOEO (Key on engine off). Also you can check the resistance of the sensor to ground using an Ohm meter. The resistance of a normal sensor to ground will vary a little depending on the vehicle, but basically, if the temp of the engine is around 200 deg. F., the resistance will be about 200 Ohms. If the temperature is about 0 def. F., the resistance will be over 10,000 Ohms. With this test you should be able to tell if the resistance of the sensor matches the temperature of the engine. If it's not accurate according to your engine's temperature, then you probably have a bad sensor.
    3. Now, if the temperature of the engine according to the scanner is around 280 deg. F. and unplugging the sensor doesn't cause the reading to drop to negative 50 deg. F, but it stays at the same high temperature reading, then you'll need to repair the short on the signal circuit(ground) to the PCM. It's shorted directly to ground somewhere.
    4. If your temperature reading of the engine according to the scanner is showing negative 50 deg. F or so, (and you don't live in the arctic!) unplug the sensor and check for a 5V reference present at the sensor.
    5. If there isn't, then check at the PCM connector for proper 5V reference. If it's present at the PCM connector, then repair the open or short on 5V reference from PCM. If there is no 5V reference present at the PCM connector, then you're done with your diagnosis and you may have a PCM fault. 6. If the 5V reference circuit is intact, then check the ground signal to the PCM using the previous ground resistance test. If the resistance isn't normal for the temperature of the engine, then ohm the resistance of the ground signal to the PCM by removing the ground signal wire from the PCM connector. The wire should have no resistance, unplugged from the PCM to the sensor. If it does, repair open in the signal to the PCM. If it doesn't have any resistance on the ground signal wire and the resistance test of the sensor is normal, then suspect a faulty PCM.

    Other coolant engine light codes: P0115, P0116, P0117, P0118, P0119, P0125, P0128



    P0152 - HO2S Circuit High Voltage Bank 2 Sensor 1
    The heated oxygen sensor 1 is placed into the exhaust manifold. It
    detects the amount of oxygen in the exhaust gas compared to the outside
    air. The heated oxygen sensor 1 has a closed-end tube made of ceramic
    zirconia. The zirconia generates voltage from approximately 1V in richer
    conditions to 0V in leaner conditions. The heated oxygen sensor 1
    signal is sent to the ECM (Engine Control Module). The ECM adjusts the injection pulse duration to achieve the ideal air-fuel
    ratio. The ideal air-fuel ratio occurs near the radical change from 1V
    to 0V.

    Causes:
    - Harness or connectors (The heated oxygen sensor 1 heater circuit is open or shorted.)
    - Front Heater oxygen sensor heater (Bank 2) may be faulty

    Possible Solution:
    Replacing the O2 Sensor 1 usually takes care of the problem

    Check in THIS LINK diagnotic and solutions: DTC P0152.



    P1153 - HO2S Insufficient Switching - Read this article on Oxygen Sensor Codes for additional help with this type codes.

  • ZJ Limited
    ZJ Limited Nov 10, 2010


    P0304 - Cylinder #4 Misfire
    A P0304 code means that the the car's computer has detected that one of the engine's cylinders is not firing properly. In this case it's cylinder #4.

    Causes: A code P0304 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
    * Faulty spark plug or wire
    * Faulty coil (pack)
    * Faulty oxygen sensor(s)
    * Faulty fuel injector
    * Burned exhaust valve
    * Faulty catalytic converter(s)
    * Running out of fuel
    * Poor compression
    * Defective computer

    Possible Solutions: If there are no symptoms, the simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back.

    If there are symptoms such as the engine is stumbling or hesitating, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the cylinders (i.e. spark plugs). Depending on how long the ignition components have been in the car, it may be a good idea to replace them as part of your regular maintenance schedule. I would suggest spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor (if applicable). Otherwise, check the coils (a.k.a. coil packs). In some cases, the catalytic converter has gone bad. If you smell rotten eggs in the exhaust, your cat converter needs to be replaced. I've also heard in other cases the problems were faulty fuel injectors.



    P1509 - IAC Valve Circuit Failure
    Circuit failure means just that, a problem somewhere in the circuit.
    Check the entire circuit not just the replaceable part. If you can lay
    you hands on a repair manual there should be pinpoint tests to follow
    check the entire circuit, the IAC motor and the ECM.

    Trace your wiring from the iac to the ecm like dragger said, look for
    kinks, breaks and greenrot. IF you think you have a break in the wire
    between the IAC and ECM you can always run your own wires and splice in
    from the IAC and ECM and see how the car behaves.



    Hope helps with this.

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