Question about 2004 Ford Freestar

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My 2004 Freestar started to make a low pitch screeching sound while sputtering as the RPM needle would drop and then returrn to normal function. This would happen intermittently and seemed to get a little worse as the vehicle warmed up. I never totally lost power and "symptoms" or this event would only last about 1 second or so. Does this sound like the fuel filter? Van odometer is 79,700.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

freetek
  • 5568 Answers

SOURCE: 2005 Ford Freestar Want start sometimes.

A late reply; I'm sure you have found the problem by now-
It sounds as if the battery (old and new) are not receiving sufficient charge.
Check the drive belt tension and add a cheap digital multimeter to your 'tools.'  These can be had for well under $20 US and you can then check across the battery terminals to see if the charge voltage is between ~ 13-14.3 volts at an idle. In no case should it be lower than 13 volts with the engine running since the nominal battery voltage is 12.6 volts when fully charged.
You may have a separate regulator that is ill.  

Posted on Oct 09, 2008

jackiaria
  • 350 Answers

SOURCE: 2005 Ford Five Hundred engine sputtering

Dear anew32, Wed 2-11-2009 3:43am EST (USA)

Do you often run your gas tank to near empty?
If so.......
This sounds like it may be as simple as cleaning the water or gunk out of the gas tank which is what I always do 1st because it's easy and inexpensive.
If your fuel is contaminated with gunk, grime, water and/or bottom junk like rust this will cause stalling and rough riding!
Try spraying a can of starter fluid in the air intake and see if it runs! If it does, it's most likely bad fuel or clogged injectors so....
Fill the tank with High Test, Add some dry gas and a good fuel system cleaner or 2 or 3 and this should dissolve all the gunk and clean the injectors! Read & follow the cans' instruction carefully.
If this cures the problem never let your gas tank get below 1/4 and especially never run it to empty as this is when the gunk and/or water will enter the system!
Hope this helps!
Good Luck!
jack
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Posted on Feb 11, 2009

  • 67 Answers

SOURCE: noise around the belt area

replace the crank sensor. is the car is v6 cly

Posted on Apr 17, 2009

jaysonemanme
  • 500 Answers

SOURCE: my 2004 ford freestar van is hesitating going down

most likely not the fuel filter- try plugs and wires... could be a number of things, if the vehicle runs fine while in park and doesnt hesitate, most likely is sprk plugs and wires or a transmission problem...

Posted on Jun 25, 2009

  • 1584 Answers

SOURCE: 2004 Ford Freestar SEL sputtering, check engine light flickering.

Engine lamp will come on if idle is too low / fuel mixture is too lean or too rich.
A faulty spark plug will cause this also.

Posted on Mar 10, 2010

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Engine cuts out at 3000 RPM?http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/12/engine-cuts-out-at-3000-rpm.html

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Metal on metal sounding clicking noise while the wheels are turning but only on the frot driver and passenger wheels. What is going on? It started out only on the passenger side and then after the tire...


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1 Answer

2004 Ford Freestar SEL sputtering, check engine light flickering.


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Mar 10, 2010 | Ford Freestar Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Flatlining at 3000 RPM


maybe the cam timing is off. If the engine was torn down and reassembled wrong, that would do it. Connect a vacuum gauge to the intake manifold and see what you get for vacuum readings.
It should be about 17 inches at idle. And, it should be steady.

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  1. NORMAL READING: Needle between 51-74 kPa (15-22 in-Hg) and holding steady.
  1. NORMAL READING DURING RAPID ACCELERATION AND DECELERATION: When engine is rapidly accelerated (dotted needle), needle will drop to a low (not to zero) reading. When throttle is suddenly released, the needle will snap back up to a higher than normal figure.
  1. NORMAL FOR HIGH-LIFT CAMSHAFT WITH LARGE OVERLAP: Needle will register as low as 51 kPa (15 in-Hg) but will be relatively steady. Some oscillation is normal.
  1. WORN RINGS OR DILUTED OIL: When engine is accelerated (dotted needle), needle drops to 0 kPa (0 in-Hg). Upon deceleration, needle runs slightly above 74 kPa (22 in-Hg).
  1. STICKING VALVES: When the needle (dotted) remains steady at a normal vacuum but occasionally flicks (sharp, fast movement) down and back about 13 kPa (4 in-Hg), one or more valves may be sticking.
  1. BURNED OR WARPED VALVES: A regular, evenly-spaced, downscale flicking of the needle indicates one or more burned or warped valves. Insufficient hydraulic valve tappet clearance will also cause this reaction.
  1. POOR VALVE SEATING: A small but regular downscale flicking can mean one or more valves are not seating.
  1. WORN VALVE GUIDES: When the needle oscillates (swings back and forth) over about a 13 kPa (4 in-Hg) range at idle speed the valve guides could be worn. As engine speed increases, needle will become steady if guides are responsible.
  1. WEAK VALVE SPRINGS: When the needle oscillation becomes more violent as engine rpm is increased, weak valve springs (6513) are indicated. The reading at idle could be relatively steady.
  1. LATE VALVE TIMING: A steady but low reading could be caused by late valve timing.
  1. IGNITION TIMING RETARDING: Retarded ignition timing will produce a steady but somewhat low reading.
  1. INSUFFICIENT SPARK PLUG GAP: When spark plugs (12405) are gapped too close, a regular, small pulsation of the needle can occur.
  1. INTAKE LEAK: A low, steady reading which can be caused by an intake manifold or throttle body gasket leak.
  1. BLOWN HEAD GASKET: A regular drop of fair magnitude can be caused by a blown head gasket (6051) or warped cylinder head-to-cylinder block surface.
  1. RESTRICTED EXHAUST SYSTEM: When the engine is first started and is idled, the reading may be normal but as the engine rpm is increased, the back pressure caused by a clogged muffler, kinked tailpipe or other concerns, will cause the needle to slowly drop to 0 kPa (0 in-Hg). The needle then may slowly rise. Excessive exhaust clogging will cause the needle to drop to a low point even if the engine is only idling.
    When vacuum leaks are indicated, search out and correct the cause. Excess air leaking into the system will upset the fuel mixture and cause concerns such as rough idle, missing on acceleration or burned valves. If the leak exists in an accessory unit such as the power brake booster (2005), the unit will not function correctly. ALWAYS FIX VACUUM LEAKS.

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