Question about 2005 Chevrolet Impala

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I have a 2005 Chevy Impala LS, 3400, the temperature gauge fluctuates passed 220 degrees and cools down. when turning on the heater in the car it blows cold air. I have replaced the thermostat, and the car continues to do the same thing, still when turning on the heater in the car, the heater still blows cold air. It has reached the 260 degree mark and the warning light has come on. What is it that I need to replace, to get this to stop? How can you tell if the water pump is bad, or the heater core is going bad?

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Usually if the core goes bad it fogs things up and stinks bad'

Posted on Nov 08, 2010

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The problem is more than likely a blown head gasket.This motors are known for this.The heater core will not cause over heating.Usually the rear cylinder on the passengers side.I`ve done a few of these and it is always the same cylinder.The problem is the gasket gets a hair line crack between the water jacket and the cylinder.This would be the number 1 cylinder.Hope this helps.Good luck.Let me know if you have any more questions.

Posted on Nov 08, 2010

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1 Answer

Why did this happen all of a sudden, Overheating (maybe) and RPM Sensor Pointing down?


If the noise was coming from the cooling system, first try to replace the radiator or expansion bottle pressure cap. The RPM needle probably is unrelate to the cooling system problem.

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When the coolant in the engine reaches a specific temperature (180 ~ 195 degrees) as determined by the value selected by manufacturer or when replaced, it opens and allows the hot coolant in the engine block to be pumped out to the radiatot & heater core for cooling and the cool coolant in the radiator / heater core is pumped into the engine block - replacing the hot coolant. The thermostat senses cool coolant in the engine block and seals shut until the temperature of the coolant in the engine block rises to 180 ~ 195 degrees again. This process continues over and over for as long as needed.

You should check to make sure that the coolant level in the reservoir / radiator is sufficient by checking when cold. Do NOT remove a radiator cap when it is hot! With the cap off, start the engine and add additional coolant as the engine warms up to normal operating temperature. If coolant levels are ok, the trouble could be related to the thermostat or possibly a faulty temperature sending switch. This means that the temperature of the coolant is fine - but the switch or sensor that converts the temperature to a voltage for the gauge on yur dashboard is the problem.

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My temperature gauge warns up normal but the fluctuates between normal and half way to cool... What could the problem be? Dangerous?


Probably not dangerous.
Assuming the radiator is full of coolant, it could be a normal thing where the thermostat is opening and closing at 195 degrees.
Or the cooling fan could be going on and off.
The thermostat opens at 195 degrees on most cars and the cooling fan comes on at 220 degrees.

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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My temperature gauge is rising then dropping. It never crosses into the red. The whether in my area is cool at this time.


THE INSTRUMENT PANELS ON ALL 2005 CHEVY IMPALAS WILL ALL FAIL. THIS INCLUDES THE SPEEDOMETER, THE TACH, THE FUEL GAUGE AND THE TEMP GAUGE. ALL I HAVE LEFT THAT WORKS IS MY SPEEDOMETER. THIS IS DUE TO A FAULTY INSTRUMENT CLUSTER PACKAGE AND I HAVE BEEN FIGHTING WITH GM ON THIS FOR A WHILE. THERE WAS A RECALL ON CERTAIN MODELS FOR THIS SAME PROBLEM BUT THEY DIDNT INCLUDE OURS. ALSO THE INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKET IS BAD AND YOUR TEMP GAUGE WILL GO UP AND DOWN AND YOU WILL LOOSE COOLANT DUE TO A FAULTY GASKET CAUSED BY THE DEXCON COOLANT THEY USED. MAKE SURE YOU CHECK YOUR COOLANT RESEVOIR TO SEE IF IT IS UP TO THE PROPER LEVEL. DO THIS WHEN THE ENGINE IS COOL AND FILL IT TO THE "COOL LEVEL". YOU CAN TELL IT IS LOW WHEN YOU HEAR WATER SLOSHING AROUND BEHIND THE DASH. AIR HAS GOTTEN INTO THE COOLANT SYSTEM AND IS LETTING THE FLUID SLOSH AROUND. THESE CARS ARE LEMONS. I BOUGHT A MALIBU AND THE ELECTRONIC STEERING WENT OUT THREE TIMES ON THE INTERSTATE AND I COULD NOT STEER THE CAR. I TRADED IT FOR THIS LEMON. NO MORE GM PRODUCTS FOR THIS GUY! FOOL ME ONCE SHAME ON YOU. FOOL ME TWICE, SCREW GM!!!!!

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3 Answers

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Torque specs.


connecting rod = first pass 18 ft lbs , second pass 75 degrees

main bearings = first pass 37 ft lbs , second pass 77 degrees

wow that wasn't easy to find for some reason .

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