Question about Toyota ECHO
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I doubt it is the timing chain. More than likely it is the valves themselves, the seats wear out, and the lifters wear, so eventually the lifters don't pump up as full as they should, so it causes a gap between it and the valve, so it slaps the valve, also the seats wear, so the valve is kinda loose, so that causes a gap between it and the rocker shaft, so you get another slap. If the chain wore out enough to be hitting the block or front cover, you would be having timing issues because it would have to be pretty loose. You may also have a failing oil pump, so it is not suppling the right pressure, which is why you hear it at idle, because under load the pressure goes up and as I said it pumps up the lifter. This guy is a joke if he told you just to drive it till it blows, which would cause significant damage, Then you have to buy a what? use motor for $600 that is no better off than what you got? Then pay someone like this idiot $500 to install it? Right now you could probably rebuild the engine for about $600, and have a brand new fresh motor for your truck. The chain is not too difficult, you can do it in the car, but would be much easier out of it. The head doesn't have to be removed to do it, but you do have to take off the timing cover, which can be a pain, and possibly the water pump, all the engine pulleys, alternator, etc. So thats why I suggested pulling the motor. And, when it is pulled, it would be a great time to freshin it up with new pistons, rings, bearings, have the block done and rebuild the head.
Posted on May 15, 2008
SOURCE: timing chain wear
That is correct. If your engine is whinning at about 2000 rpm's and its a high pitch whine, you need upper timing chains and chain tensioners. aka plastic gizmo as you called it. The timing chains ride off the plastic portion of the tensioner causing the noise, basically the chain is riding on steal stub from within the tensioner, that's where the noise is coming from. Waranree on this is 5years or 60000 miles which ever comes first. And the new tensioners are updated parts.
Posted on Jul 23, 2008
SOURCE: timing chain noisey
Sorry for the severe delay.
I am personally going back to answer your unanswered question.
I do not know if you still need the answer, but I am going to answer it in case you still do.
It is apparent that you will have to change your Timing Belt.
Click on the following direct Link. It has the Timing Belt Diagrams with Marks for the Camshaft and Crankshaft that you will need. It also has numerous other helpful diagrams for use, including one with the adjustment for the Tensioner.
Again my apologies...
Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!
Posted on Mar 25, 2010
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2. TMMK made: Use Special Tool 09960-10010 to hold the pulley to remove the bolt. Use Special Tool 09950-40011 to remove the crankshaft pulley
Fig. Removing the crankshaft pulley-TMC-2.4L (2AZ-FE) engine
Fig. Removing the crankshaft pulley-TMMK-2.4L (2AZ-FE) engine
Remove or disconnect the following:
Crankshaft position sensor Lower oil pan No. 1 chain tensioner Accessory drive belt tensioner
Fig. Align the adjusting hole of the oil pump drive sprocket with the oil pump groove-2.4L (2AZ-FE) engine
Fig. Insert a bar to lock the sprocket in position-2.4L (2AZ-FE) engine
Put a bar in the adjusting hole of the oil pump driven sprocket to temporarily lock the sprocket in position. Remove the nut.
Remove the bolt, chain tensioner and spring.
Remove the chain tensioner, oil pump sprocket and No. 2 timing chain.
Set the crankshaft key into the left horizontal position. Turn the cutout of the drive shaft to the top
Fig. Align the crankshaft key and drive shaft cutout as shown for installation-2.4L (2AZ-FE) engine
Align the yellow colored links with the timing marks of the sprocket as shown in the illustration.
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