Question about 2004 Chevrolet Colorado

3 Answers

I have a 2007 chevy colorado that the heater quit working on... its not the usual 1-3 that doesnt work, none of the setting work, also i have checked the fuse, resistor, harness, and the ground on the ps fender... all are ok (not bunt/blown) also my blower motor works just fine if i put power straight to it... so is it the switch that is bad or did i miss something??

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  • gt_stang_00 Nov 07, 2010

    its not the temp selector like the thread was talking its the fan/blower speed switch that im talking about... i thought it was the resistor (IGN 3 HVAC Relay 59) in the fuseblock under the hood but i got my tester and checked it...good then i checked the ground on the ps fender... good (if it wasnt it is now but still not working) so i pulled the plug under the dash that "burns" up.. its good so i check to make sure im getting power there...yup have power so the i check the plug goin straight to the fan/blower motor... got power so then im like well hell did my fan/blower motor burn up so i put power straight to it... i comes on... so then i pull my AC/HEATER panel (under radio) out and check to see if im getting power to my switch...got power... so i got back under the dash and check the resistor (white) that is screwed to the botom of the fan/blower motor... its good...... so all i can figure out is the switch (1-4) has to be bad..... RIGHT??? If not man im lost its got me scratching my head... so whats the problem or did i still miss somthing??

  • gt_stang_00 Nov 07, 2010

    This same thing just happened to my 04 colorado. the problem is in the wiring harness or the resistor for the blower motor. I found my problem in the harness. Take the few screws out of the glove box hinge and the cover under the glove box and the motor will be exposed. disconnect the large white coupling and look to see if the pins or holes are black, like they had been burned. If they are, you may be able to clean them and put them back together. If they look normal,THE SMALL BLACK BOX THAT IS BOLTED TO THE PLENUM HAS GONE BAD,THIS IS THE RESISTOR The entire harness, with resistor can be purchased on gmpartsdirect.com

    i re-typed the caps what are they talking about there??

  • gt_stang_00 Nov 07, 2010

    This same thing just happened to my 04 colorado. the problem is in the wiring harness or the resistor for the blower motor. I found my problem in the harness. Take the few screws out of the glove box hinge and the cover under the glove box and the motor will be exposed. disconnect the large white coupling and look to see if the pins or holes are black, like they had been burned. If they are, you may be able to clean them and put them back together. If they look normal,THE SMALL BLACK BOX THAT IS BOLTED TO THE PLENUM HAS GONE BAD,THIS IS THE RESISTOR The entire harness, with resistor can be purchased on gmpartsdirect.com ...............



    i re-typed the caps what are they talking about there??

  • gt_stang_00 Nov 07, 2010

    i have a 2007 chevy colorado that the heater quit working on... its not the usual 1-3 that doesnt work, none of the setting work, also i have checked the fuse, resistor, harness, and the ground on the ps fender... all are ok (not bunt/blown) also my blower motor works just fine if i put power straight to it... so is it the switch that is bad or did i miss something??

    its not the temp selector like the thread was talking its the fan/blower speed switch that im talking about... i thought it was the resistor (IGN 3 HVAC Relay 59) in the fuseblock under the hood but i got my tester and checked it...good then i checked the ground on the ps fender... good (if it wasnt it is now but still not working) so i pulled the plug under the dash that "burns" up.. its good so i check to make sure im getting power there...yup have power so the i check the plug goin straight to the fan/blower motor... got power so then im like well hell did my fan/blower motor burn up so i put power straight to it... i comes on... so then i pull my AC/HEATER panel (under radio) out and check to see if im getting power to my switch...got power... so i got back under the dash and check the resistor (white) that is screwed to the botom of the fan/blower motor... its good...... so all i can figure out is the switch (1-4) has to be bad..... RIGHT??? If not man im lost its got me scratching my head... so whats the problem or did i still miss somthing??


    This same thing just happened to my 04 colorado. the problem is in the wiring harness or the resistor for the blower motor. I found my problem in the harness. Take the few screws out of the glove box hinge and the cover under the glove box and the motor will be exposed. disconnect the large white coupling and look to see if the pins or holes are black, like they had been burned. If they are, you may be able to clean them and put them back together. If they look normal,THE SMALL BLACK BOX THAT IS BOLTED TO THE PLENUM HAS GONE BAD,THIS IS THE RESISTOR The entire harness, with resistor can be purchased on gmpartsdirect.com ...............

    i re-typed the caps what are they talking about there??

  • gt_stang_00 Nov 08, 2010

    diagram to small when i print it out or try to blow it up its to blurry to read could i have a link please or somewhere i can find the diagram so we can get this fixed

  • gt_stang_00 Nov 10, 2010

    hey thanks for the diagrams they helped but i still cant figure out where my problem is it all has power where it suppose to and i even got a new switch and put in it and still nothing!!



    any ideas on what it could be... its got me beat i may just have to take it somewhere and have a ''pro'' look at it... whats funny is i even call my local dealership to talk to an advisor and he told me just bring it in we'll look at it...yea a hundred bucks an hour sure you wanna look at it... he couldnt even give me a clue to whats wrong he was just as lost as me lol...


  • gt_stang_00 Nov 11, 2010

    well just got home and i was in town soo i stopped and picked up a resistor thinking that was the problem... so sadly to say thats not the problem either but ill try that in the mornin to see if i can jump the ground like you said and see if that will make it work....thanks for your help man i hope we can get this thing fixed before i have to take it somewhere... because i know if i take it somewhere itll be somthing really simple and then charge me out the **** to fix.. and then id be pissed (at myself for not figure it out)

  • gt_stang_00 Nov 11, 2010

    no i dont have one ive been wanting to get one but cant as of now... but i did ask the guys at autozone and they told me it wouldnt throw a code and if it did the cel (check engine light) would be on but its not... soo they wouldnt hook it up for me.. i have a buddy that has one but hes out of town right now (i know that doesnt help) but hopefully we will either get it fixed or he will be back in town shortly


  • gt_stang_00 Nov 11, 2010

    well i called my buddy and got his code reader... no codes...

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Condition/Concern:
There are possible concerns; Erratic operation of... blower motor, windshield wipers, fog lamps, SIR indicator, cruise control, ABS indicator, battery drain and a possible no start condition. Symptoms may very due to the relay failing to engage or remaining stuck in the closed position applying power even when the ignition is in the off position. There are 2 possible issues that contribute to any of the suspected intermittent failure listed above. Relay 15328864 is used in locations 58, 59, 61 and 62 in the UBEC. Refer to the UBEC cover on the vehicle for the correct relay locations.



The IGN 3 relay, HVAC A fuse and the blower motor are in a series circuit. The test lamp should illuminate if there is no concern with the series circuit. If you unplug the resistor are you getting power to the resistor? If yes check for resistor ground have had blower motors lose ground at the resistor.If ground checks ok check for power at the blower motor if power s getting to the blower motor create a new ground just for testing purposes. Going to post the wiring diagram for the circuit.




i have a 2007 chevy - jsmes1027_14.gif
You can right click the pic and save to your comp to print out a bigger view. We need to find out where you have power and where you don't.

Posted on Nov 08, 2010

  • 7 more comments 
  • Jonathan S
    Jonathan S Nov 08, 2010

    I just got to read what you posted.I have lost my ground between the resistor and blower due to the resistor.If the resistor ground is ok try making a new ground to the resistor ground just for testing purposes.

  • Jonathan S
    Jonathan S Nov 08, 2010

    This kind of stinks that you don't get the opprtunity read what has been posted prior to giving an answer.

  • Jonathan S
    Jonathan S Nov 08, 2010

    The situation I was describing was that the ground going to the resistor was good but lost ground through the resistor.So I bypassed the resistor as the ground and jumped a wire from the blower motor ground going to the resistor with it plugged in now when testing this you will only have high function for the blower motor. Sounds like you definitely know what you are doing

  • Jonathan S
    Jonathan S Nov 08, 2010

    here is my email address drop me a line and will send schematics via email. jsmes1027@aol.com

  • Jonathan S
    Jonathan S Nov 08, 2010

    I uploaded two diagrams to photobucket will post the links.One is the diagram the other is Power distribution.



    http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/ee354...





    http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/ee354... blower motor diagram

  • Jonathan S
    Jonathan S Nov 10, 2010

    In the previous case where I had this issue when I checked the ground to the blower motor is was showing me that I had power at the ground instead of the ground being a ground. At that point I thought the blower motor was shorted but it wasn't. The resistor had just enough of a issue that the ground connection from the resistor to the blower was incomplete. This is where I connected the test light to a power source and started checking individual grounds.The test light lit ok when I tested the ground wire to the resistor so I plugged it back in and checked the ground at the blower motor.The test light would not light up like it was suppose to. So just as a temporary measure I reconnected the blower and made a jumper wire from the blower motor ground to the incoming ground that the resistor had in the pigtail then left the power wire alone and let the resistor keep supplying the power to the blower then the blower started working on high.Do not use the wire that is coming out of the pigtail to the blower motor but the wire that is incoming ground to the resistor.Please try this and see if the blower will work on high.This will bypass the resistor and let us know it the resistor it actually causing a loss of ground to the blower motor.

  • Jonathan S
    Jonathan S Nov 11, 2010

    I was going through diagnostic trouble shooter and everything is pointing to wiring problem.My personal opinion is it is on the ground side somewhere.Connect a test light to the positive battery cable use a long jumper if needed to reach the grounds we need to check. Unplug the blower pigtail and check the ground it should light up.If it doesn't we know we have a ground issue.Plug that one back in and unplug the resistor and see if that one lights up.If needed go all the way back to switch to find out where in the circuit where we are losing the ground. I am 99 percent this is definitely a grounding problem.If you run that jumper and blower still doesn't work the ground problem is before the resistor. Just a question of curiosity do you have a scan tool available to check and see if the bcm has stored any codes?

  • Jonathan S
    Jonathan S Nov 11, 2010

    A bcm code most likely wouldn't make the check engine come on just the tcm and pcm would.Its possible that there is a code in there keeping the bcm from grounding out the circuit.

  • Jonathan S
    Jonathan S Nov 12, 2010

    A basic code reader will pretty much only read OBD II generic codes for the power train. Body codes will show up as B codes and C codes indicate chassis U codes are serial data codes. You may need a full blown scan tool or what we can do is reset the HVAC control module to where we know there are no HVAC codes in it.With the key in off position and remove the blower motor fuse remove the 10amp AC/fuse 5 leave it out for about 30 sec.Replace them both then turn the key to run position for about 60 sec but do not touch any HVAC controls as this will disrupt the relearn process of the module. give this a shot it should clear in possible HVAC codes.

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Have a 07 colorado w/the same problem tracked it down to a resistor and after replacing the resistor still didnt work looked into it further and found the ground bad at the resistor and the motor cleaned the grounds on the motor and the resistor cut the wire out of the plug that goes into motor (ground wire) and replaced electrical connector with another one and used rtv around the wire connector going into the motor and reinstalled the motor and good to go now works great all this basically was caused by a bad ground at the motor and the resistor both can cause a problem check the ground at the motor
one wire is orange and the other one is brownish the brownish one is the problem child youll probably find the electrical connector at the motor melted to some degree if so itll more than likely be the culpritl John A.

Posted on Jul 08, 2013

  • Jason Barker
    Jason Barker Oct 09, 2015

    My problem also turned out to be a bad ground. I replaced the blower, the resistor, and the plug had previously been replaced. I tried all 4 of the 15328864 relays in the starter slot to ensure they worked as well. After reading this post I simply took a piece of wire and pushed it into the back of the blower plug then shorted it to the metal where the glove box bolts on. My motor kicked on and worked at every setting. Thanks for the tip. If I had read this first I would have saved about $130 on the blower and resistor. I guess I could take them back to Autozone but they both have a lifetime warranty so I'm leaving them in.

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Yes it sounds like the heater selector itself may be bad. Also there is a common problem with those knobs and the wire may have come off. I would pop off the plastic around it and the radio and get in there and see if everything is at should be then consider replacement. Here is a link on a forum talking about the problem in detail:
http://coloradofans.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=51964
If you need further assistance please let me know.
Thank you,
Lee

Posted on Nov 07, 2010

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