A replace rear galiper on my mazda 5 06 and the brake pedal still very low like we have air in system , i bleed at 4 wheel 5 time and stil low do you have an idea

you need to pressure the cylinder and bleed the system, not just prime pump with the peddle. brake pressure kit for bleeding brakes and clutch systems.

PRESSURE BLEEDING

MANUAL BLEEDING

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For vehicles equipped with an Anti-lock Brake System (ABS), please refer to the ABS bleeding procedure at the end of this section.
The purpose of bleeding the brakes is to expel air trapped in the hydraulic system. The system must be bled whenever the pedal feels spongy, indicating that compressible air has entered the system. It must also be bled whenever the system has been opened or repaired. If you are not using a pressure bleeder, you will need a helper for this job.

WARNING Never reuse brake fluid which has been bled from the brake system.

MASTER CYLINDER

See Figure 1
If the master cylinder is off the vehicle, it can be bench bled.

1. Secure the master cylinder in a bench vise.
2. Connect 2 short pieces of brake line to the outlet fittings, bend them until the free end is below the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoirs.
3. Fill the reservoir with fresh DOT 3 type brake fluid.
4. Using a wooden dowel, or equivalent, pump the piston slowly several times until no more air bubbles appear in the reservoirs.

Fig. Fig. 1: Attach bleeding tubes to the master cylinder and position them as shown

1. Disconnect the 2 short lines, refill the master cylinder and securely install the cylinder cap.
2. If the master cylinder is on the vehicle, it can still be bled, using a flare nut wrench.
3. Open the brake lines slightly with the flare nut wrench, while pressure is applied to the brake pedal by a helper inside the vehicle.
4. Be sure to tighten the line before the brake pedal is released.
5. Repeat the process with both lines until no air bubbles come out.
6. Bleed the complete brake system, if necessary.

If the master cylinder has been thoroughly bled and filled to the proper level upon installation into the vehicle, it is not necessary to bleed the entire hydraulic system.

PRESSURE BLEEDING

When bleeding the brakes, air may be trapped in the brake lines or valves far upstream, as much as 10 feet from the bleeder screw. Therefore, it is very important to have a fast flow of a large volume of brake fluid when bleeding the brakes, to make sure all of the air is expelled from the system.
On Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible and Breeze models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


Left rear wheel Right front wheel Right rear wheel Left front wheel
On Sebring coupe and Avenger models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


Right rear wheel Left front wheel Left rear wheel Right front wheel

1. You should use bleeder tank tool C-3496-B or equivalent, with the required adapter for the master cylinder reservoir to pressurize the hydraulic system for bleeding. Make sure to follow the manufacturer's directions for using a pressure bleeder.
2. Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw located at the right rear wheel, then place the hose into a clean jar that has enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose.
3. Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn or more to get a steady stream of fluid.
4. After about 4-8 oz. of fluid has been bled through the brake system and an air-free flow is maintained in the hose and jar, close the bleeder screw.
5. Repeat the procedure at all the other remaining bleeder screws. Then, check the pedal for travel. If pedal travel is excessive or has not improved, enough fluid has not passed through the system to expel all of the trapped air. Be sure to monitor the fluid level in the pressure bleeder. It must stay at the proper level so air will not be allowed to re-enter the brake system through the master cylinder reservoir.
6. Once the bleeding procedure is complete, remove the pressure bleeding equipment from the master cylinder.

MANUAL BLEEDING

See Figure 2
Proper manual bleeding of the hydraulic brake system will require the use of an assistant.
On Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible and Breeze models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


Left rear wheel Right front wheel Right rear wheel Left front wheel
On Sebring coupe and Avenger models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


Right rear wheel Left front wheel Left rear wheel Right front wheel

Fig. Fig. 2: With a clear plastic hose in a container of clean brake fluid, open the bleeder screw at least one full turn

1. Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw located at the right rear wheel, then place the hose into a clean jar that has enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose.
2. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal 3-4 times, and hold it down before the bleeder screw is opened.
3. Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn. When the bleeder screw opens, the brake pedal will drop.
4. Close the bleeder screw. Release the brake pedal only AFTER the bleeder screw is closed.
5. Repeat the procedure 4 or 5 times at each bleeder screw, then check the pedal for travel. If the pedal travel is not excessive, or has not been improved, enough fluid has not passed through the system to expel all of the trapped air. Make sure to watch the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. It must stay at the proper level so air will not re-enter the brake system.
6. Test drive the vehicle to be sure the brakes are operating correctly and that the pedal is solid.

i dont know what this car is but it sounds like you need to adjust the rear brakes and also there may be air still in the sytem, there are many cars that cross brake systems so if you are working on the left rear wheel you would also need to bleed the right front wheel, heres what i would do make sure to fill the brake fluid and always keep an eye on the level as you are bleeding the brakes, start at the right rear wheel and bleed it a few times then move to the left rear wheel, bleed that then go to the right front and bleed that one and last is the left front and that should solve ant air in the system problem, also make sure there are no leaks in any of the brake lines. good day.

1. Check the fluid level in the reservoir after bleeding each wheel. Add DOT3 fluid, if necessary.
2. If the master cylinder was disassembled or if the reservoir becomes empty, bleed the air from the master cylinder as follows:
   1. Disconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder.
   2. Slowly depress the brake pedal and hold it.
   3. Block off the outlet plug with your finger, and release the brake pedal.
   4. Repeat 3 or 4 times.
   
   
3. Bleed the brake starting with the one furthest from the reservoir and then the next furthest, etc.
   
4. Depress the brake pedal several times, then loosen the bleeder plug with the pedal held down.
5. At the point when fluid stops coming out, tighten the bleeder plug to 11 Nm (8 ft. lbs.), then release the brake pedal.
6. Repeat until all the air in the fluid has been bled out.
7. Repeat the procedure to bleed the air out of brake line for each wheel.
8. Check the fluid level and add DOT3 fluid if necessary.

Make sure the rear brakes are adjusted and also make sure there are no leaks. if there are no leaks then you have air in the system or a bad mastercylinder, rebleed the brakes, have someone inside pumping the pedal three times every time, then start at the right rear wheel and bleed it four times, each time have them pump pedall three times and hold it down, then go to left wheel and do the same then the right front then left front. to make sure you dont run master dry top off the fluid after every wheel, then adjust the rear brakes, and after that if pedal is low replace the master but you may just have air in the system, and make sure there are no leaks on any line. hope this helps.

Here is the procedure from the service manual. I would add just one thing. Do each wheel in this order

1. right rear wheel
2. left rear wheel
3. right front wheel
4. left front wheel

BLEEDING

HINT: If any work is done on the brake system or if air in the brake lines is suspected, bleed the air from the system.

NOTICE: Do not let brake fluid remain on a painted surface. Wash it off immediately.


a)FILL BRAKE RESERVOIR WITH BRAKE FLUID Fluid:SAE J1703 or FMVSS No. 116 DOT3

b)BLEED MASTER CYLINDER HINT: If the master cylinder has been disassembled or if the reservoir becomes empty, bleed the air from the master cylinder.

c)Disconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder. SST 09023-00100 Slowly depress the brake pedal and hold it.

Block off the outlet plug with your finger and release the brake pedal.
Repeat (b) and (c) 3 or 4 times.


BLEED BRAKE LINE

1. Connect the vinyl tube to the caliper or wheel cylinder bleeder plug.
2. Depress the brake pedal several times, then loosen the bleeder plug with the pedal held down.
3. At the point when fluid stops coming out, tighten the bleeder plug, then release the brake pedal. Torque: (Bleeder plug) Front brake caliper
: 8.3 Nm (85 kgf-cm, 74 inch lbs.) Rear wheel cylinder: 8.5 Nm (87 kgf-cm, 75 inch lbs.)
4. Repeat (b) and (c) until all the air in the fluid has been bled out.
5. Repeat the above procedure to bleed the air out of the brake line for each wheel.

CHECK FLUID LEVEL IN RESERVOIR Check the fluid level and add fluid if necessary. Fluid: SAE J1703 or FMVSS No. 116 DOT3

First, before you do the bleeding, did you "open" any of the lines? Was there a caliper replaced?

If no line was opened, you do not need to bleed the brakes.

If so, please let me know and I will post the bleed procedures for you.

Why are you thinking about bleeding the brakes? Spongy brake pedal?

there is air there somewhere. try manual bleeding the brakes. do the farthest wheel first. if they are calipers all the way around, when you bleed them tap them gently to remove any air that can still be inside the chambers.

robert

Check the pads/rotors to see if they need to be replaced.
Check the brake fluid level. If low it could mean the pads/rotors need to be replaced. If replacing also replace the brake fluid.
Two years probably means you need a brake job.

Otherwise you may have air in the brake lines which you can bleed off.

You have air in the brake hydraulic system, to bleed the brakes properly do this, go to the right rear wheel and have some one pump the brake pedal at least ten times, then ope bleed valve at back of wheel cylinder, do this until you hear a spitting sound, which indicates air, do this at every wheel in this order, RR, LR, RF, LF. check the Master cylinder reservoir each time you do a wheel and top it off. If you make a mess brake fluid washes off with water, don't get it on any painted surface, it will take the paint off. Hope this helps.