Question about 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Truck

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Plastic bushings in the clutch/brake pedal assembly? on reassembly how do you get the main pin back into place? have been trying for over 3 hours to reinstall pin...no luck and have tried several differtent ways....HELP!!

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

aliensanity
  • 24 Answers

SOURCE: clutch pedal not returning to position

Under the dash look to see if there is a spring attached to the petal or maybe under the hood. Or you might have something getting in the was of the petal arm. Good Luck and PEACE

Posted on Jun 13, 2008

  • 41 Answers

SOURCE: clutch pedal linkage

This shaft is removable, and the assembly, if not worn extremely bad, can be rebuilt. The assembly is called a quadrant. You can go to the local FORD dealer, and tell them to pull up a picture of the quadrant assembly, and you can pick out the parts you need to make the repair. If the shaft has worn out the quadrant bracket, then you will have to replace the assembly.

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

  • 93 Answers

SOURCE: Clutch pedal hydraulic assembly has popped out of the firewall

is it the pedal end or gearbox end

Posted on Feb 23, 2009

junkman1249
  • 552 Answers

SOURCE: where can i buy

try rockauto.com

Posted on Apr 01, 2009

  • 1118 Answers

SOURCE: CAN'T GET REAR DRUM OFF

If you can pry it out far enought to pop the ajuster out and the spring off, if not on the back side of backing plate on each side there is what looks like a nail head, they are the heads of the pins that hold the shoes to the backing plate, take a chizzel and pop them off and it should come off that way shoes and all. Of course when you go to get your new shoes you will have to get a hardware kit and new ajusters unless you can free up the old ones and have your drumbs chk. to see if they can be turned, other wise you will have to get new ones, never go cheap on breaks. You need them there when you go to thro the ancor.

Posted on Apr 20, 2009

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1 Answer

How to replace the brake light switch on a 1997 grand marquis


Hello,

REMOVAL

  1. Disconnect the wire harness at the connector from the stoplight switch.
NOTE: Locking tab on connector must be lifted before connector can be removed.
  1. Remove the hairpin retainer and slide the stoplight switch, the push rod and the nylon washers and bushing away from the brake pedal. Remove the stoplight switch by sliding the stoplight switch up/down as required to remove.
NOTE: Since the stoplight switch side plate nearest the brake pedal is slotted, it is not necessary to remove the brake master cylinder push rod and one spacer washer from the brake pedal pin.

INSTALLATION
  1. Position stoplight switch so that the U-shaped side is nearest the brake pedal and directly over or under the pin. Then slide stoplight switch down or up trapping the master cylinder push rod and black bushing between the stoplight switch side plates. Push stoplight switch and push rod assembly firmly toward brake pedal arm. Assemble outside white plastic washer to pin and install hairpin retainer to trap whole assembly.
CAUTION: Do not substitute other types of pin retainers. Replace only with a production hairpin retainer. Component damage may occur.
  1. Assemble the wire harness connector to the stoplight switch.
NOTE: Stoplight switch wire harness must have sufficient length to travel with stoplight switch during full stroke of brake pedal. If wire length is insufficient, reroute harness or service as required.
  1. Check stoplight switch for proper operation.

Dec 18, 2015 | 1997 Mercury Grand Marquis

1 Answer

2003 lincoln town car


Hi Roger, Chock the wheels and apply the parking brake, Jack the vehicle and place chassis stands under the vehicle and make sure they are firm and will not move. Remove the front wheels and then loosen and remove the brake calipers, tying them up and out of your way with a reasonably strong twine. Make sure that flexible pipes are in good condition and when tied, not bent at an angle which would cause damage or breakage. Remove the nuts securing the ball joints and then using the special tool release the conical shafts from the housings. If the special tool is not available, it is possible to remove the tapered joints with a heavy hammer, striking the side of the housing (the metal unit where the taper is fitted) by hammering with several blows until the joint becomes loose. Remove the shock suspension assembly by removing the fixing nuts from the top mounting (under the hood) and the lower two nuts and bolts holding the shock absorber assembly to the stub axle mounts. Disconnect the anti roll bar mounts attaching the control arm to the chassis (superstructure of the body) and then remove the inner nuts of the the control arms. Using a pin punch of the correct size and being careful not to damage the threading, punch out the bolt and then remove the control arm. You will probably need to have the bushing removed with a press and have the replacements fitted in the same way. Reassembly is opposite. Make sure all nuts and bolts are correctly tightened and in the event of castle nuts, replace the locking split pins. When fitting back the brake calipers you will need to push the pads back towards the pistons so when the assembly is completed, make sure to pump the brake pedal until the travel feels normal. When completed have someone very close wipe your brow and serve you with your favorite drink. If its alcoholic, test the vehicle the next day. Regards John

Aug 18, 2012 | Lincoln Town Car Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

When you put the clutch in the brake goes in to


You're going to have to sit in there with your head on the floor and feet on the seat and look under the dash and the clutch and brake pedals.
Last time I was under a ford dash there was a large pin welded in the middle of a bracket. half the pin in the inside of the braket was where the brake pedal hung from and the half on the outside was where the clutch hung from. The pedals are suposed to have bushings in them. Perhaps a pedal froze on that pin and the pin broke free from the bracket.

You're going to have to look to know for sure.

Aug 31, 2011 | 1985 Ford Bronco II

2 Answers

Just put in new clutch in 2001 f150 2wd 4.2 also new slave and master cylinder and pedal safety switch. After bleeding the pedal feels fine but the clutch does not seem to engage as the shifter will not...


what you mean is the clutch is not disengaging the transmission from the engine, so you can shift it.

This is always due to air trapeed in the clutch system. It is very hard to purge the air.

You may have to have a shop use their evac/fill equipment, if they have it.

Try raising the front of the truck as high as you can, including facing uphill. The air is likely trapped at the slave cylinder, not at the clutch.

There is a video on you tube showing a guy purging air from a Ranger. See if you can view it.

1) The Hydraulic system should be bled to remove all the air whenever air enters the system. This occurs if the fluid level has been allowed to fall so low that air has been drawn into the clutch master cylinder. Under normal circumstances, air should not enter the system when the quick disconnect hydraulic line fittings have been disconnected. The procedure is very similar to bleeding a brake system, but depends mainly on gravity, rather than the pumping action of the pedal, for the bleeding effect.

2) Fill the master cylinder to the top with new brake fluid conforming to DOT 3 or DOT 4 specifications. Caution: Do not re-use any of the fluid coming from the system during the bleeding operation and don't use fluid from which has been inside an open container for an extended period of time.

3) Raise the vehicle and place it securely on jack stands or drive it securely up on ramps (whichever method you chose) to gain access to the bleeder valve, which is located on the top left side of the bellhousing (See Illustration 1-1 below). Try to keep the truck as level as possible. Caution: Don't forget to chock the rear wheels and set parking brake for extra safety...

4) Remove the dust cap which fits over the bleeder valve and push a length of clear plastic hose over the valve. Place the other end of the hose into a clear container.

5) Open the bleeder valve. Fluid will run from the clutch master cylinder, down the hydraulic line, into the release cylinder (the Slave Cylinder) and out through the clear plastic tube. Let the fluid run out until it is free of bubbles.
Note: Don't let the fluid level drop too low in the clutch master cylinder, or air will be drawn into the hydraulic line and the whole process will have to be started over.

6) Close the bleeder valve.

7) Open the bleeder valve and have an assistant slowly depress the clutch pedal allowing fluid to flow through the clear plastic hose. When the clutch pedal is almost to the floor, close the bleeder valve and have the assistant release the pedal.

8) Slowly press the pedal five times, waiting two (2) seconds each time the pedal is released. When releasing the pedal on this step, release it fast. This tends to help **** fluid down the stream and aid in faster bubble reduction.

9) Fill the fluid reservoir to the top.

10) The clutch should now be completely bled. If it isn't, (indicated by failure to disengage completely, and a soft or no pedal), repeat steps 5 through 9.

11) Continue this process until all air is evacuated from the system, indicated by a solid stream of fluid being ejected from the bleeder valve each time with no air bubbles in the hose or container.

12) Install the dust cap and lower the vehicle. Check carefully for proper operation before placing vehicle in normal service. Check the fluid level.

Note: If you can NOT get fluid out of the bleeder screw, then the internal check valve in your clutch master cylinder may be stuck, or you haven't bleed the system for at least 30 minutes. You will either have to use a different bleed technique, or replace the clutch master cylinder. Bleeding a Ranger clutch system takes time and patience. One small mistake / loss of patience / or shortcut, and you'll have to start all over.

May 20, 2011 | 1989 Ford F 150

2 Answers

How to change break switch on 89 mustang


  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Unplug the wire harness at the connector from the switch mounted at th brake pedal. The locking tab must be lifted before the connector can be removed.
  3. Remove the hairpin retainer, slide the stoplight switch, the pushrod and the nylon washers and bushings away from the pedal and remove the switch. NOTE: Since the switch side-plate nearest the brake pedal is slotted, it is not necessary to remove the brake master cylinder pushrod and washer from the brake pedal pin. To install:
  4. Position the switch so the U-shaped side is nearest the pedal and directly over/under the pin. Slide the switch down or up, trapping the master cylinder pushrod and black bushing between the switch side plates. Push the switch and pushrod assembly firmly toward the brake pedal arm.
  5. Assemble the outside white plastic washer to the pin and install the hairpin retainer to trap the whole assembly.
  6. Assemble the wire harness connector to the switch. Check the switch for proper operation. Connect the negative battery cable. NOTE: The stoplight switch wire harness must be long enough to travel with the switch during full-pedal stroke. If the wire length is insufficient, reroute the harness or service, as required.
Fig. 1: Brake pedal assembly

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Feb 07, 2011 | 1989 Ford Mustang

3 Answers

200 ford escort brake light stays on when engine is off


Your brake light switch stuck. Look up under the dash on your brake pedal assembly. You will see the switch on the pedal where the pivot for the brake master cylinder is. You can disconnect the electrical connector. If the lights go out, then replace the switch. This is not hard, but a little tricky because you are standing on your head to accomplish this mission. Just pull the clip out of the pivot pin and slide everything sideways to remove the switch. Pay attention to where the plastic bushings go because they have to go back in to the correct place to make everything work properly.

Feb 05, 2011 | 2001 Ford Escort ZX2

2 Answers

Excursion limited edition. Brake lights stay on.


Check that the pedal height isn't sagging due to low brake fluid level. Also check for adjustment of the brake light switch or the BPP (Brake Pedal Position) switch.

Brake Pedal Position (BPP) Switch Removal & Installation To Remove:
  1. Disconnect battery negative cable.
  2. Disconnect brake pedal position (BPP) switch electrical connector.
  3. Remove self locking pin.
  4. Remove switch from brake master cylinder push rod.
  5. Remove push rod spacer.
  6. Remove push rod bushing.
To Install:
  1. Install push rod bushing.
  2. Install push rod spacer.
  3. Install switch to brake master cylinder push rod.
  4. Install self locking pin.
  5. Connect electrical connector.
  6. Connect battery negative cable.
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Jan 25, 2011 | 2003 Ford Excursion

2 Answers

I have a 1997 saturn sc2 im trying to bleed the clutch slave cylinder


In this car, there is no bleed port provided. The hydraulic clutch system is closed and is sold only as a complete set of master, reservoir, slave, and line. The set is priced at $130 at autozone.com. I have pasted the replacement instructions from autozone.com below. Please let me know if you have more questions.

See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4
The master cylinder, pipes and slave cylinder are a complete assembly and must be replaced as a single unit.
  1. Block the clutch pedal to prevent it from being depressed while the slave cylinder is removed from the transaxle.
  2. Remove the air cleaner/intake duct assembly.
  3. Disconnect the negative battery cable first, then the positive cable.
  4. Remove the battery hold-down retainer.
  5. Remove the battery from the vehicle. Store the battery in a safe location, but do not place it on a concrete surface for any long period of time or it will discharge.
  6. Remove the battery tray. Note that one battery tray mounting fastener is only accessible through the fender well.
  7. Rotate the slave cylinder about 1 / 4 turn counterclockwise while pushing toward the bell housing, in order to disengage the connector and remove the cylinder from the clutch housing. Remove the slave cylinder bracket retaining nuts and pull the assembly from the studs.
  8. If equipped with ABS, remove the brake master cylinder-to-power booster mounting nuts. Move the master cylinder off of the mounting studs and slightly toward the engine, being careful not to bend or kink the brake lines.
  9. Remove the master cylinder pushrod retaining clip from the clutch pedal pin and disconnect the pushrod from the pedal.
  10. Rotate the clutch cylinder about 1 / 8 turn clockwise and remove it from the instrument panel. Remove the hydraulic assembly from the vehicle.

To install:
  1. Install the clutch master cylinder into the dashboard with the reservoir leaning toward the driver' fender. Rotate the cylinder about 1 / 8 turn counterclockwise to lock it in position.

When installing a new assembly, the plastic retainer straps should remain in place on the slave cylinder, to ensure that the actuator rod seats on the release fork pocket upon installation. If reinstalling an assembly, be sure to position a new plastic retainer strap onto the end of the pushrod and attach the straps to the cylinder.
  1. If equipped with ABS, place the brake master cylinder into position on the power booster mounting studs. Install and tighten the master cylinder-to-power booster mounting nuts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
  2. Slide the slave cylinder onto the clutch housing studs, then install the nuts and tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
  3. Insert the slave cylinder into the clutch housing with the hydraulic line facing down and rotate about 1 / 4 turn clockwise while pushing it into the housing.
  4. Lubricate the clutch pedal pin with silicone grease, then connect the pushrod to the clutch pedal and install the retaining clip.
  5. Install the battery tray. Tighten the battery tray mounting fasteners to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  6. Place the battery into the battery tray. Be careful that the battery terminals do not short against any metal during the installation.
  7. Install the battery hold-down retainer.
  8. Connect the positive battery cable first, then the negative cable.
  9. Install the air cleaner/intake duct assembly.
  10. Remove the block from behind the clutch pedal and, if equipped, properly enable the SIR system.
  11. Start the engine and check the pedal for proper operation.
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Fig. Fig. 1: Block the clutch pedal to prevent slave cylinder damage, should the pedal be depressed while the cylinder is removed from the transaxle


999d0d2.gif Fig. Fig. 2: To remove, rotate the slave cylinder about 1/4 turn counterclockwise while pushing toward the bell housing

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Fig. Fig. 3: This plastic retaining strap must remain on the slave cylinder to ensure proper seating of the actuator rod against the release fork
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Fig. Fig. 4: Rotate the clutch master cylinder about 1/8 turn clockwise and remove it from the instrument panel


HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING The clutch hydraulic assembly has been filled with fluid and bled of air at the factory. Do not attempt to bleed the hydraulic system. While the unit does not require periodic checking, it must be serviced, when necessary, as a complete assembly. The system is full when the reservoir is half full.
Only DOT 3 brake fluid should be added to the system. If the fluid level drops, inspect the system, including the slave cylinder, for leakage. A slight wetting of the slave cylinder surface is normal. Fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on the painted surface of the vehicle.

Oct 31, 2010 | 1997 Saturn SL

1 Answer

TO JTURCOTE, THANK YOU BUT MY SWITCH DOES NOT LOOK LIKE THE ONE IN THE DIAGRAM. MINE IS MOUNTED HIGH ON THE BRAKE PEDAL ARM BUT IS NOT CONNECTED TO THE MASTER CYL. PUSH ROD. HELP


Sorry. That is the one autozone.com calls for in your car. there is another one in the book for the other trucks. Does yours look like this? If so, instructions pasted below.

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Fig. 1 Exploded view of the brake light switch
  1. Lift the locking tab on the switch connector and disconnect the wiring.
  2. Remove the hairpin retainer, slide the stop lamp switch, pushrod and nylon washer off of the pedal. Remove the washer, then the switch by sliding it up or down.

On trucks equipped with speed control, the spacer washer is replaced by the dump valve adapter washer.
  1. To install the switch, position it so that the U-shaped side is nearest the pedal and directly over/under the pin.
  2. Slide the switch up or down, trapping the master cylinder pushrod and bushing between the switch side plates.
  3. Push the switch and pushrod assembly firmly towards the brake pedal arm. Assemble the outside white plastic washer to the pin and install the hairpin retainer.



CAUTION Don't substitute any other type of retainer. Use only the Ford specified hairpin retainer.

  1. Assemble the connector on the switch.
  2. Check stop lamp operation.

Sep 24, 2010 | 1999 Ford Expedition

3 Answers

Clutch pedal box has snapped off its mounting on vw polo


1-disconnect battery. 2- remove all lower dash plastic panels. 3- disconnect all plugs on steering coloumn. 4- remove shear bolts on steering coloumn, easy with a long 8" sharp chisel (get 2 x new shear bolts £0.50p each). 5-loosen & remove bolt at steering rack in drivers footwell, mark position of spline before removing this makes it east to refit (tipex). 6- pull steering coloumn out towards you & it will slide off the bush quite easy. 7- loosen clutch cable adjustment & remove cable nipple at pedal. 8-remove clutch pedal. 9- pull brake pedal out of plastic insert, this will break there is no way to remove this without breaking the plastic clip. get a new brake pedal clip insert for a Mk 3 golf £4 its the same (dont let VW sell you a new pedal) 10- remove 5 x nuts holding pedal box to bulkhead/brake servo. 11- cut 2 x cable ties holding throttle wiring & disconnetc plug above heater on drivers side. 12- push/pull brake servo slightly out of bulk head. 13- remove pedal box.
Cause of the problem- The clutch bracket is only held to the pedal box with 2 x spot welds & a 10mm tack on the top corner.
Repair- Fully Weld the clutch bracket to the pedal box. Great repair.
refitting reverse of above.
Duration around 6/8 hours Less if you get the spare parts before you start.
I wasted time trying to remove the brake pedal without breaking the clip impossible to do even with theVW tool. £4 on a new clip is well worth it.

Jan 30, 2010 | 2000 Volkswagen Golf

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