Question about 2004 Honda Accord

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Car wouldn't start. Towed it to Pep Boys and they could not reproduce the problem of not starting. Happened again a few weeks later, had the starter replaced. a few weeks later, the car will not start. Charged the battery. Removed negative cable and have 1.2vdc going to ground. ??? Is there a relay in the engine compartment that may be sticking/bad causing this problem?

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  • juan433 Nov 09, 2010

    First let me thank you for your assistance. The starter and solenoid is new so i checked the connections made by the technician. They are all fine along with my cables. I had recharged the battery, but let me explain...This morning the battery voltage was 10.65vdc. I cranked the engine over and the voltage dipped down to 5.4vdc before the engine started to run. Voltage increased to 14.49VDC. Alternator is working right? Ran for about 10 minutes then turned it off. Voltage tapered off to 12.41 vdc. It is now at 12.36VDC two hours later??????

  • juan433 Nov 09, 2010

    First let me thank you for your assistance. The starter and solenoid is new so i checked the connections made by the technician. They are all fine along with my cables. I had recharged the battery, but let me explain...This morning the battery voltage was 10.65vdc. I cranked the engine over and the voltage dipped down to 5.4vdc before the engine started to run. Voltage increased to 14.49VDC. Alternator is working right? Ran for about 10 minutes then turned it off. Voltage tapered off to 12.41 vdc. It is now at 12.36VDC two hours later??????

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Hi, if the engine fails to crank, there is a fault in one of the components in the battery/ignition/starter circuit.

You have to check this out to troubleshoot

  • Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
  • Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
  • Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
  • Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
  • Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
  • Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
  • Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
  • Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
  • Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
  • Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Posted on Nov 07, 2010

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