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Could be a few things, warped rotors, u-joint, upper control arm. Best thing to do is take it to an alignment shop. They will not align it if something is bad on your chassis or front end until you get it fixed. Good Luck
If the hub is coming out the whole assembly needs replaced. The hub is the part that has the studs that anchor the wheel when you put the lugnuts on. The caliper should be moving freely unless the anchoring sleeves or slider pins are damaged. If the caliper is still anchored to the backing plate then there would be no issue with the slider pins.
when you changed the hub assembly did it come with a new wheel bearing? jack the vehicle up and move the tire up and down and then side to side and check and hear for play on parts if there is play in something then that is your problem to me it sounds like your inner tie rods does it pop on both ends ?
2000 Ford Focus DrumRemovalProcedureIf removing the drum to service the rear brakes: (note, do not remove hub retaining nut for this procedure) 1. Raise and support vehicle 2. Release the parking brake 3. Remove wheel and tire 4. Disconnect wheel speed sensor wiring harness from wheel knuckle and floor panel. 5. Remove 4 wheel spindle attaching bolts, then the wheel hub and drum assembly from vehicle. 6. Reverse procedure to install noting the following: a. Torque wheel spindle retaining nut to 49 ft. lbs. b. Torque wheel/tire assembly to 94 ft. lbs. 2000 Ford Focus DrumReplacementProcedureIf replacing the drum and wheel bearing assembly: 1. Raise and support vehicle 2. Release the parking brake 3. Remove wheel and tire 4. Remove center dust cap. 5. Remove hub retaining nut. 6. Remove drum and hub assembly. Ensure wheel speed sensor ring is not damaged when removing drum/hub (if equipped). 7. Reverse procedure to install noting the following: a. Inspect and clean wheel speed sensor ring if equipped. b. When tightening hub retaining nut, rotate the hub assembly in counterclockwise direction. c. Torque hub retaining nut to 173 ft. lbs. d. Torque wheel/tire assembly to 94 ft. lbs. e. Adjust parking brakes as necessary.
do you have auto locking hubs? if so save yourself the hassles i did not and buy a decent set of manual hubs.my 1989 4 wheel just gave up one day..no wear on axles..front drive shaft spinning but no action..i replace auto locking hubs and re assembled to no avail...no answers why either...have pulled it all apart and put back together many times and no change,only to be told to put manuals in and live happily ever after!!done ....and done!
Front hub bearing, remove tire, remove caliper and caliper holding bracket, you do not have to remove brake caliper from brake hose, just set it aside, if 4X4 remove front axle nut that goes through center of rotor, also remove brake rotor, disconnect elec, A.B.S connector, remove three bolts on back side of hub bearing, remove hub bearing, some times you will need to knock hub bearing out with a hammer.Reverse to install new hub bearing.
Did you recently swap tires from back to front. I had very annoying wheel bearing type noise and the tires were not noticeably worn (Bridgestones) but apparently some wear pattern was causing my noise. Swapped them back.
Remove tire and wheel, remove caliper and brake rotor. DO NOT apply the brakes while the caliper is loose. Hit stud you want to replace hard with a LARGE HEAVY hammer to drive it out towards vehicle. DO NOT use a light hammer. It will distort the stud and possibly mushroom the end making it very difficult to remove. Once the stud is loose, you may or may not have enough room to get it out of the hole. You may need to pull the hub loose from the rear suspension to gain more room. Remove the stud. Place new stud in hole. Put a stack of washers over the stud, grease the threads, and using a new FLAT nut with the same threads as the lug nut, tighten until the stud is pulled all the way into the hub. Remove the flat nut, reattach the hub assembly (if you needed to take it loose) and reinstall the brakes.
If this is a 2005 F-150 4x4. Usually if there is movement up and down, itmight possibly be the lower ball joints and not the wheel bearing, to verify that it is indeed bearing play you can grab a hold of your tire (with tire of the ground) and try and move it side to side instead of up and down. If you can still feel the movement then it is the wheel bearing. To get to the wheelbearing you will first have to remove the tiny center dust cap in the middle of the wheel. There should be a 13mm bolt you will need to remove under that cap. Next you will have to remove the brake caliper and caliper bridge, then remove the brake rotor. On the backside of the knuckle assembly you will see 4 bolts that hold the hub assembly (your wheel bearing) on. There also may be a plastic ring around the back of the hub assembly too that has vacuum lines running to it for the vacuum hub,this will be held on by 4 or so 8mm bolts, once all these bolts and the4 bolts holding the actuall hub assembly on are removed, you should be able to remove the hub (bearing) assembly from the front of the knuckle assy. Hope this helps.