The engine makes a noise like a loose timing chain slapping against the timing cover only at start up when oil pressure is low for 2 seconds and goes away. no noise under acceleration or idle i changed the oil and also replaced the timing chain guide and hydraulic tensioner . noise still present, do you guys have any ideas?
Not a good idea to ignore it. I heard this rattle sound at start up intermittently and after investigation Mazda acknowledged in 2009 by way of a Service Bulletin that there was a potential problem of failure with a "Oil Pressure Actuating Valve" if this is the correct terminolgy. Similar non turbo and turbo motors are in the mazda 3 and SP23 versions also. I have just bought a 2007 CX7 turbo with 46000kms on it, serviced and oil changed every 5000kms and full service history by a local Ferrari mechanic. After I asked questions, he apparently was advised by Mazda "that it was not an issue and normal for these motors". I have had 3 independent mechanics stating and including a report from the Mazda Service Techs that it could be an issue, even moreso long term. They are trying to cover up the issue of the defective valve and low oil pressure so would suggest that you pursue Mazda hard otherwise it will cost you approx $1000.00 to have it fixed.
A lot of ideas and opinions here but here we go,I've had a bit of experience with this recently,been a mechanic for over 30 years,replace your chain and tensioner and have fun getting the camshafts and crank to line up like I did cos mister Matsuda did not use keyways,but don't worry I have got it all worked out and the engine runs like a dream.If anyone would like to know let me know,thanks
I'm having the same engine noise on my 07 cx-7. There is a service bulletin from Mazda saying the variable valve timing actuator (VVT actuator) is faulty. If you are able to take the valve cover off of the vehicle you can see the VVT actuator. There are two notches on the actuator that are supposed to line up. The notches may be hard to see so you'll have to look closely. Turn the camshaft counter clockwise with a wrench until the notches are lined up. Then turn the camshaft clockwise approx 90 degrees. If the notches do not line up, that indicates the actuator is faulty. There is also another bulletin from Mazda saying the oil control valve is faulty. Some people refer to this as the VVT solenoid. This can easily be tested if the valve cover is off. The oil control valve is sticking up on the top of the engine. Remove the 10mm bolt holding the valve and it should slide out. You can use jumper wires to inspect this. Jump it with a 12 volt source. You should see it move. Hope this helps
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noisy on start up is hydraulic lifter problem as they are loose until the oil pressure builds up. the adjustment is taken up and the noise goes
it mat have some noise from the chain until the oil pressure builds up as it has a hydraulic chain tensioner
you list it as a 2016 model and the only suggestion I could make is to go up a grade in oil viscosity
AS it is new the oil is probably 15w where I would use a 20 w 40 oil
run your engine against other new engines and see if the engine noise is louder ( use a noise meter ) and make the dealer do something as nothing gets quieter as it wears out --just louder
A loose timing chain tensioner will not cause the oil lamp to light. The noise you are hearing is most likely valve noise due to oil starvation. The oil light comes on when the oil pressure is too low to be safe for the engine. Most people believe it is to tell you the oil level is low. A low oil level can cause low oil pressure is the oil is below the sump, but low oil is not the cause of the light - low oil pressure is. This can be due to a number of things, such as a bad oil pump, faulty bypass regulator at the oil filter, loose sump pipe connection, or even an oil gallery plug that comes out internal to the engine. You need to stop using the vehicle immediately and have the oil pressure checked with a mechanical guage to determine if the problem is the oil ressure or the sensor that lights the light. The chain tensioner being loose CAN cause noise, and that itself is an issue that should be fixed, as in many vehicles a loose chain can jump time, or jam and break, and since many cars have interference engines, either of these scenarios can cause severe internal damage to the engine.
Sounds like a Belt or timing chain is slapping inside the Cover ,,, usually a sign that your Belt or chain tensioner is broken ,,, i wouldn't run it to long ,,as it will skip and do serious engine damage ,,GET IT TOWED TO A TRUSTED SHOP !!!
Oil pressure pushes the tensioner foot up against the chain. When the rubber face wears down it will come to the end of it's travel and then stop. High mile engines don't produce a lot of pressure on a cold start, so look at the pressure regulator in the oil pump and replace the timing chain tensioner.
My best guess would be that the timing chain tesioner which is hydraulic, is not supplying enough pressure to the chain and it's slapping against the guides. You might try using a lighter weight oil or switch to a 5w-30 synthetic and see if it resolves the problem.
For some reason the engine is loosing oil pressure, the engine will shut off when the oil pressure sensor reads no pressure. The knocking noise could be the timing chain slapping against the sides of the covers as the tensioner is operated by oil pressure or a bearing problem. First check to see if there is the proper amount of oil in the engine, if so, I would recomend you have it towed to a Qualified Repair Shop that can determine the problem [ they can also document the problem in case you have cause to go back on the place the did the oil change ].
Take a dry bar of soap and touch it against the sides of the belt(s) while the engine is running. If the noise goes away for a little while, the noise is from the belt settling into the grove of the pulley. Belts can really make loud pooping noises.
If this has no effect, then your timing chain may be too loose for the timing chain tensioner to compensate, and the chain is slapping against the inside of the timing chain cover.
If this is the case, do not let this condition go on. The timing chain cover is aluminum, and the chain is high grade steel. The chain will wear a hole in the cover if it is hitting the inside of it, and that is allowed to continue.
from what you are describing it sounds like a lifter/valve issue, i am a ford man i don't know if toyota do the same thing, but if they use inserts for the valve seats it is possible a valve seat has been dropping just has not dropped fully out to cause engine damage. buying a new engine will actually cost you less than an overhaul/rebuild anymore. the parts will cost you almost as much as a new motor will with all the machining that maybe needed.
Possibly clearances "closing" at operating temparature? 20w50? Kinda heavy isn't it?Spun bearing - should make more noise than a "Tap"? I've heard several low and high mileage 2.9 engines "tap" but quits after warm up? That SEEMS to be somewhat common with the2.9 Sorry can't be more specific.