Question about 2002 Chevrolet Astro
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
You may have to get your wheels re ballanced if you lost one of the weight's on the rim. The other thing to is a bent rim if you hit a large pot hole or crub and last to see if the tire it self has funny wear patterns on the treads.
Other things to look for if your wheels are ok. Check the ball joints Check the tie rod ends Check and pay attention to the Idler and Pitman arm. Your looking for any excessive movments
A good way is to grease all that is mentioned above and see if the vibration is gone.
Lost thing would be the brake rotors but you'ld now that by having vibrations throught out any speed when you apply the brakes to slow down.
Good luck and hope this helps, you should be able to do this on your own other then checking the wheel ballance.
Posted on Apr 14, 2009
Yes you can, If you have taken the front drive shaft off, you can even still drive with the CV joint in place till you want to remove it. You may get some vibration around corners till you replace the CV joint or remove it totally.
But if your going to remove it, might as well wait till you have the replacement so you only do the job once. I had a Bad CV joint on a AWD Chevy van and did the same thing so i could still use it, and then replaced the CV joint when the weather got better.
Good luck and hope this helps.
Posted on May 06, 2009
Can't believe they don't have the numbers. but, not being in the
business anymore, I don't either. However if you want to do something
yourself, likely you can get it close by the" is it wearing and where'
method, till you get the specs. Most have an excentric on the steering
knuckle strut mount. Mark current position with something that won't
wash off then turn excentric to move the top of the tire away from the
area that's wearing, and lock it down. this changes your camber
setting. If wheel is off center, center it and lock in place. sight
down tire and see if one is visibly turned more in or out than the
other. adjust that one first to make it reasonably straight by
loosening collar on tie rod end. Count number of turns you made to the
collar so you can return to original position if needed (write it down)
Then measure distance between center of both tires at the front and
rear of each, in the same place. The total measurement should be around
one-quarter inch less at the front. If not, adjust each tire one half
of the difference. Monitor tread wear after you do this and make any
fine adjustments needed. Most of these do not have a caster adjustment,
so don't bother with that.
I'm certain though that you will find a shop with those specs if you look a bit harder, but you may need to go beyond where you normally travel.
If your car is not wearing tires radically, or pulling badly, I would leave it alone till you find a more informed shop.
Posted on May 23, 2009
Changing Universal joints is an art. First, to make it easy, you need a pretty large vice. C-clamps can work if you are man enough to sqeeze them, sometimes a lot of pressure is involved and it gets hard to hold all parts in place. A vice is recommended, or a press of some sort.
You need a socket or pipe cap big enough to slide over the diameter of a single u-joint cap. Take the driveshaft and lay it in the jaws of the vice, so the U-joint is in the squeeze zone. take a socket smaller than the cup diameter and place it on one side. Take the large socket and place it on the other side of the u-joint. tighten vice. The small socket will push the U-joint through the yolk, and push the opposite cap into the empty space of the large socket. Once you bottom out, remove from the vice, and take off the cap you just pushed through. ( You may need a pair of vice grips to grab and twist the cap the rest of the way out.) Now, put giant socket over cap that is still in the yolk, place the small socket so it presses on the capless side of the U-joint Squeeze vice, so the existing cap gets pushed back through where it came from, but then keep squeezing until it is out of the yolk and pressed all the way to the large socket side. Once there, remove from vice, pull the now pressed out second cap out of the yolk hole. Now both caps are off, and you can just pull U-joint out of yolk.
Putting the new one back in is tricky too, you must remove both new caps and put capless U-joint back in hole of yolk, place a samall amount of fresh grease into caps to hold needle bearings in place. (if needle bearing falls out of place and you squeeze the U-joint back together, it will snap or bend bearing and U-join is no good, you must get another needle bearing to replace the damaged one, maybe salvage from old joint, but best to buy new joint if this happens, but if 11:00 pm and store is closed, you have to work next morning, then steal one from old joint) then slide both caps in from outside at same time, while twisting yolk squeeze in caps with vice. Once you bottom out on both sides, take small socket and press one side in until ring acan snap in, not too far, just enough to get ring in, then press in opposite side to same point. Put in rings clamps, then wiggle side to side for free movement. Then install back into truck.
Posted on Jun 21, 2009
The locking hub control system is not engaging properly. On the 99 Tracker this is a compressed air system that consists of an air pump (compressor), electrical wiring to power and control the air pump, and air hoses that lead to an actuator inside the front differential housing. If there is a leak in the system the PCM will run the air pump for 10 seconds and then shut off, and your propeller shaft can turn all day long, but the front axles will remain free floating. Turn on your key, not your engine, and engage four wheel high. Go listen near the passenger front bumper for the air compressor. If you hear it, then the compressor control and the compressor itself are likely fine. If it shuts off after 10 secs or so, and your 4WD light isn’t on, the PCM timed out the compressor out and shut the compressor off to protect it. You will have to find the leak and fix it. If you are lucky, it’s the air line leading to the front differential; and not the air line inside the differential housing, or the air bladder in the locking actuator, which also resides inside the font diff. If the compressor shuts off and the 4WD light is on (this means the PCM did not shut the air compressor off due to timeout, so the pressure switch read 5-7 psi and the pump shut itself off), you likely don’t have a leak, and something mechanical has the actuator hung up inside the front differential. Lastly if you don't hear the compressor run at all, you either have a faulty compressor, or some sort of wiring problem in that circuit.....it could be as simple as a blown fuse. Good luck.
Posted on Oct 11, 2009
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