Question about 1994 Buick Century

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I have a Problem with getting fluid to the breaks from the master cylinder though the ABS system. the book does not show how to do this can you help me

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Forget the ABS and all the scanner stuff

Start engine,get a helper in the vehicle and bleed as you would any car.
Start at right rear,then left rear,RF,LF

Do not open any abs system bleeders,just 4 wheel bleeders

Posted on Nov 06, 2010

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I have a 2003honda pliot i cant get no brake fluid to pump up to the cliper


Abs systems are harder to bleed but it is quite possible the the bleeder screw is just plugged up. Pull the bleeder screw completely out and see iff you can blow through it and see if brakefluid finally comes out of caliper. If it does not trace the line backwards and crack lines open to see when and where the clog begins. Sometimes the abs unit can become clogged because brake fluid breaks down and becomes a sludge because hardly anyone flushes the brake fluid anymore. Brake fluild needs replaced after atleast by second brakejob, otherwise it breaks down from all the heat created from pressurizing and depressurizing in the brake system. Good luck finding your clog. I would advise removing your brake master cylinder reservoir and clean it out and clean out the brake ports in the master before reinstalling. Flush your whole system and your brake system will last for many more years.

Feb 21, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

02 Ford Explorer sporttrac xlt. New rotors calipers pads and master cylinder. Bled it twice stream looks good new fluid. One day breaks stick then the next no breaks Break light on Proportional valve?


For some reason these vehicles you need to bleed brakes several times, had same problem, so air hangs up in lines somewhere it apears. When you say brakes sticks, describe it better, locked up, or dragging on rotors?
CERACOAT-NANOTECH.com

Apr 21, 2015 | 2002 Ford Explorer Sport Trac

1 Answer

1990 jeep wrangler bleeding breaks


Hi there:
I suggest to check this procedure, when the hydraulic brake system must be bled whenever a fluid line has been disconnected because air gets into the system.

A leak in the system may sometimes be indicated by a spongy brake pedal. Air trapped in the system is compressible and does not permit the pressure applied to the brake pedal to be transmitted solidly through the brakes. The system must be absolutely free from air at all times. If the master cylinder has been overhauled or a new cylinder has been installed, bleed the cylinder on a bench before installation. When bleeding brakes, bleed at the wheel most distant from the master cylinder first, the next most distant second, and so on. During the bleeding operation the master cylinder must be kept at least 3 / 4 full of brake fluid.


The ABS bleeding procedure is different from the conventional method. It consists of the following three steps:
Step 1: Conventional manual brake bleed.
Step 2: Bleeding the system using the DRB scan tool.
Step 3: An additional conventional manual brake bleed.

The recommended ABS bleeding procedure is as follows:
  1. To bleed the brakes, first carefully clean all dirt from around the master cylinder filler cap. Remove the filler cap and fill the master cylinder with DOT 3 brake fluid to the lower edge of the filler neck.
  2. Bleed the master cylinder first. Have a helper operate the brake pedal while bleeding each master cylinder fluid outlet line. Do not allow the master cylinder to to run out of fluid,as this will allow additional air to be drawn into the cylinder.
  3. Bleed the brake system in the following sequence:
    1. Master cylinder
    2. HCU valve body (at fluid lines)
    3. Right rear wheel
    4. Left rear wheel
    5. Right front wheel
    6. Left front wheel
  4. Clean off the bleeder connections at all four wheel cylinders. Attach the bleeder hose to the right rear wheel cylinder bleeder screw and place the end of the tube in a glass jar, submerged in brake fluid.
  5. Open the bleeder valve 1/2 - 3/4 of a turn.
  6. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly and allow it to return. Continue this pumping action to force any air out of the system. When bubbles cease to appear at the end of the bleeder hose, close the bleeder valve and remove the hose.
  7. Check the level of fluid in the master cylinder reservoir and replenish as necessary.
  8. After the bleeding operation at each wheel cylinder has been completed, fill the master cylinder reservoir and replace the filler plug.

Do not reuse the fluid which has been removed from the lines through the bleeding process because it contains air bubbles and dirt.


  1. Perform the "Bleed Brake'' procedure with the DRB II scan tool. This procedure is described in the DRB II software information and diagnostic guide.
    1. Attach the DRB II scan tool to the diagnostic connector.
    2. Run the Bleed Brake procedure as described in the DRB II tester guide.
  2. Repeat the conventional bleeding procedure as previously outlined.
  3. Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the proper level.
  4. Check the brake operation.


Hope this helps.

Apr 21, 2013 | Jeep Wrangler Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

BRAKE PEDAL GETS HARD WHILE BREAKING


brake switch bad, system needs bled, rear brake circuit probably has air in fluid, fluid is no doubt contaminated, nobody addresses this maintainance problem, bleed entire brake system, replace all fluid w/ new. if fluid in the master cylinder is black, seals are bad, some brake systems have a pump as part of master cylinder, these pumps run off fuses , 25amp, etc., check what system you have. is your fluid level correct ? the switch I refer to is @ proportioning valve below master cylinder @ frame, see abs brakes use this valve to prevent skidding, rear brakes must come on first, before front brakes. if valve is not in balance a hard brake pedal occurs, as with low fluid levels. does your brake light come on ? @ dash. have a brake shop bleed your system, if there's a problem they'll find it for you, let them do it, don't wast your time.

Jan 13, 2013 | 1994 Toyota Land Cruiser

1 Answer

Changed the master cylender and vacuum booster and blead the system by the book and still cant get breaks without pumping them.


There must be air in the system some where. i am not sure of the year ,make and model of this van and also not sure of the brake system, for example if you have drum brakes in the rear then first adjust them.
The next step is to fill the master cylinder, make sure there are no leak anywhere.Next step start at the master cylinder, at the line to master do not worry about abs system. have someone inside ready to pump brake pedal and hold.Have them pump pedal three times and hold pedal with a little pressure.make sure as you open the bleeder they push on pedal and keep foot on brake until you tell them to pump again. the pedal is to be pumped three times every times.
With pedal pumped start at master lines, open one allow to bleed a little then close and move to next and allow to bleed. if master has more than two lines then pump again and do two, open one and close then open two and close then pump again. After master is bleed a few times and no air comes out then move to right rear wheel, pump three times and hold while you open bleeder, this is to be done about four times to make sure you get a good flow of fluid with no air .
NOTE: always keep master cylinder full, check after each wheel. make sure the person pumping the brakes does not lift until you say and the bleeder is closed. After the right rear wheel you will move to left rear and then right front wheel and last is the left front wheel.
Make sure there are no bad wheel bearings, lift wheel of the ground and grab and check for movement by pulling wheel out and in from top to bottom, the last thing is make sure the caliper slides are free moving.
If the caliper does not slide on the bracket freely then the piston will not stay on pad and pedal will need to be pumped to get a pedal. good day.

Mar 11, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

My breaks wont work after changing the front rotars, calipars and pads. I bleed all four breaks starting with the back passenger side then back drivers side then front passenger side then front drivers...


As a general rule, if you have ABS you might have to cycle the pumps and valves to purge the old fluid out of the unit. This is either done via a dealer scan tool, a purge valve/bleeder valve on the ABS unit, or a less than ethical way. Drive your car and heavily engage the ABS, you know what I'm talking about.
Then you will need to repeat the bleeding process that you have already done.
Normal non ABS brakes, bleed once.
ABS brakes, bleed, cycle then bleed again.

Aug 07, 2011 | Chrysler Cirrus Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Need to know procedure for bleeding brakes on1987 gmc s15 2.8 litre 4x4 front disc w/abs


MANUAL BLEEDING

For those of us who are not fortunate enough to have access to a power bleeding tool, the manual brake bleeding procedure will quite adequately remove air from the hydraulic system. The major difference between the pressure and manual bleeding procedures is that the manual method takes more time and will require help from an assistant. One person must depress the brake pedal, while another opens and closes the bleeder screws.

In addition to a length of clear neoprene bleeder hose, bleeder wrenches and a clear bleeder bottle (old plastic jar or drink bottle will suffice), bleeding late-model ABS systems may also require the use of one or more relatively inexpensive combination valve pressure bleeding tools (which are used to depress one or more valves in order to allow component/system bleeding). To fully bleed the late model ABS systems, a scan tool should also be used to run the system through functional tests.
  1. Clean the top of the master cylinder, remove the cover and fill the reservoirs with clean fluid. To prevent squirting fluid, and possibly damaging painted surfaces, install the cover during the procedure, but be sure to frequently check and top off the reservoirs with fresh fluid.
CAUTION Never reuse brake fluid which has been bled from the system.
  1. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected to contain air. If the master cylinder was removed and bench bled before installation it must still be bled, but it should take less time and effort. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
    1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle's finish as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.
    1. Loosen the front brake line at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
    2. Have a friend depress the brake pedal slowly and hold (air and/or fluid should be expelled from the loose fitting). Tighten the line, then release the brake pedal and wait 15 seconds. Loosen the fitting and repeat until all air is removed from the master cylinder bore.
    3. When finished, tighten the line fitting to 20 ft. lbs. (5 Nm).
    4. Repeat the sequence at the master cylinder rear pipe fitting.
During the bleeding procedure, make sure your assistant does NOT release the brake pedal while a fitting is loosened or while a bleeder screw is opening. Air will be drawn back into the system.
  1. Check and refill the master cylinder reservoir.
Remember, if the reservoir is allowed to empty of fluid during the procedure, air will be drawn into the system and the bleeding procedure must be restarted at the master cylinder assembly.
  1. On late model ABS equipped vehicles, perform the special ABS procedures as described later in this section. On 4 wheel ABS systems the Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV) must be bled (if it has been replaced or if it is suspected to contain air) and on most Rear Wheel Anti-Lock (RWAL) systems the combination valve must be held open. In both cases, special combination valve depressor tools should be used during bleeding and a scan tool must be used for ABS function tests.
  1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
    1. Right rear
    2. Left rear
    3. Right front
    4. Left front
  2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
    1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end. Be sure the hose is seated snugly on the screw or you may be squirted with brake fluid.
Be very careful when bleeding wheel cylinders and brake calipers. The bleeder screws often rust in position and may easily break off if forced. Installing a new bleeder screw will often require removal of the component and may include overhaul or replacement of the wheel cylinder/caliper. To help prevent the possibility of breaking a bleeder screw, spray it with some penetrating oil before attempting to loosen it.
    1. Submerge the other end of the tube in a transparent container of clean brake fluid.
    2. Loosen the bleed screw, then have a friend apply the brake pedal slowly and hold. Tighten the bleed screw to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm), release the brake pedal and wait 15 seconds. Repeat the sequence (including the 15 second pause) until all air is expelled from the caliper or cylinder.
    3. Tighten the bleeder screw to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm) when finished.
  1. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.
  2. If the brake warning light is on, depress the brake pedal firmly. If there is no air in the system, the light will go out.
  3. After bleeding, make sure that a firm pedal is achieved before attempting to move the vehicle.

Hope helps (remember to rate this answer).

Apr 13, 2011 | 1987 GMC Jimmy

1 Answer

My ABS system is leaking hydraulic fluid, but the rest of the braking system seems to be ok. But since both the front, back and ABS system draw fluid from the master cylinder, it empties out and leaves...


Nope - the master cylinder sends fluid to the ABS system, which then the fluid is sent to the brakes. It's all one system - you cannot eliminate the ABS without rerouting the brake lines to bypass it.

Jan 24, 2011 | 1996 Acura SLX

4 Answers

I have an 06 jetta, 2.5l. does not have electronic parking brake. the brakes on all 4 wheel are dragging. you can open any bleeder and get a little squirt. wheels will spin freely. when you drive it again...


SOUND LIKE FAULTY ABS UNIT AND WHEEL SENSORS OR MASTER CYLINDER.THE MASTER CYLINDER PISTONS NOT RETURNING.RAISE THE REAR OF VECHICLE BLOCK FRONT WHEELS FROM MOVING.MAKE SURE PARKING BRAKE IS FULLY RELEASED SO YOUR BRAKE BRAKES NOT DRAGGING.THE BACK WHEELS SHOULD TURN WITH BRAKE RELEASED.IF NOT PARKING BRAKE NEEDS ADJUSTMENT.

Oct 29, 2010 | Volkswagen Jetta Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Bad brakes on gmc suburban, replaced master cylinder,rear wheel cylinder and abs control module,bled system,still have spongy brakes and ABS come on right before it gets stopped.


Gravity bleed your brakes starting at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder. No pweddle pumping. I Fill M/C and leave cover off. Then open the bleeder and watch what is coming out. Uou can see bubbles. When the fluid drips steady and without bubbles, cole and do the same to the other three. Don't let the master cykinder get low because thr fluid level helps move the fluid and air through the lines.Periodically tap the break lone with your wrench to keep everything moving.. When sll bleeders drip clean and steady. Make sore your rear brakes are adjusted to barely touch the drum. Then top off the master cylinder, cap it and give yourself a "break". :)

Jun 15, 2009 | 1997 GMC Sierra K2500

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