Brake light don't light unless steering wheel is all the way up
When I move the steering wheel to any position but all the way up, the rear brake lights will not light up. The center/3rd light still does but the two main ones cut out. I've wiggled wires and looked inside to see what might be affecting the wires, but there does not appear to be anything in the steering column that relates to brake lights!!! WTF
Re: Brake light don't light unless steering wheel is all...
We found that there are two wires at the top of the steering column. The steering column cover needs to be taken off to see the two wires, and the wires ARE different colors than in the back break light. Both looked as if they were plugged in. The wire on the left was loose. It didn't seem like it was fully plugged in. So by pulling on it gently, we realized that we were able to get more wire and it was able to plug in tightly, like the wire on the right. Our problem was the tilting also. All after replacing bulb, socket the bulb goes in, the clip connected to the socket and re-splicing the wires. It is worth checking these wires BEFORE going to a shop and paying out tons of money!!! Especially when a bulb doesn't solve the problem.
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Broken wire in steering column in area that bends. Suggest just leaving tilt up all the time. Unless you or someone you know is mechanically inclined and very patient. If that is the case disassemble and slice brake.
One of the things is a lock-out switch on the brake pedal lever. Some are coordinated with the gearshift, the Keyswitch, and the starter Relay. Check to see if the brake lights work when you press on the brake pedal. If no signal is going to the brake lights, then there is a chance that the Park shift lever, the steering wheel and the Keyswitch are bound up.
Sometimes a steering wheel is at the extreme reach of the travel in the front suspension. This can sometimes happen in cold weather when the car is sitting on ice or snow. When the ice or snow melts, the front tires settle into a position that puts pressure on the steering wheel and loads Torque up the steering column. Another possibility is that the car was bumped in the Parking lot and jammed into a position creating Torque on the steering column.
Last, the tumbler inside the Keyswitch could have fallen apart and that is why the mechanism is not releasing the steering wheel.
There are adjustments in the Keyswitch to be at the correct position to work with the lockout at the bottom of the steering column.
Turn the key from the lock position to the first 'on' position (first click from the position the key is inserted). Holding the brake, try to move the selector. Does it move? If so, you have a problem with the shift interlock. If not, you probably have a linkage / trans problem Have an assistant watch the brake lights. If no brake lights, check fuses for blown fuse. Repairing lights will repair interlock.
That's the most interesting problem I've heard all week. I'm pretty sure this has to be problem in the switch that operates the light. Are you positive it's the brake light and not just the tail light? Tail light switch is part of the headlight switch. If you're sure it's the brake light, replace the switch under the brake pedal arm, under your dash. I think this is the problem because unless the circuit is engaged at these switches, it's impossible to activate them from anywhere else. Brake switch is easy. You can do it your self. Headlight switch usually involves removing the steering wheel and is kind of a pain but not too overwhelming.
As for the rear brake check to see if the emergence brake cable is free or binding, not releacing the brake calaper.
The engine rpm is not directly related to the brake other than the engine is trying harder to overcome the drag from the brake.
The passenger window is an obvious electrical short in the wireing harness at the door jam that is closed at a certain position of the door. Open the door and hold the switch on at the same time you move each wire individually in the harness. When you move the correct wire the window will move, hopefully.
As for the battery light, it could be any number of things. It is best to have it connected to a diagnostic tester to determine just what it is rather than chasing your tail.