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Re: car cranks but no start
Based on the used electrical design, one terminal of the ignition coil would be +12V when IGN switch is ON/RUN. It is the other terminal that is switched by a CDI/igniter. If the igniter will not switch the coil, then you will not have any spark. The igniter to work needs a pulse trigger input from the engine (to know when to fire).
In some instances, there is an immobilizer that disables the coil from firing as part of the vehicle's security system. You may want to have a look at your alarm system also.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.
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Pull the coil wire off the distributor cap. Put a ***** driver in it and place it close to any metal on the engine. crank over the engine. If you have spark, replace the pick up coil/ignition module in the distributor. If you have no spark. Check for power and ground at the coil plug with engine on. If it is there , replace the crank sensor.
check for spark to make sure the distributor is working. If there is not spark than make sure the distributor is turning. Remove the cap and see if the rotor turns will a helper cranks the engine over. If it is turning than use a test light connected to ground and see if spark comes out of the ignition coil while the engine is being cranked. if there is no spark make sure there is power to the coil. if there is power you may have a defective distributor. if there is no power check fuses.
if the rotor is not turning check to make sure the timing belt is not broken.
if the coil is known to be good check in the distributor cap whether power is getting there. if it is there must be something wrong with the spark leads.
Essentially you must work backwards from the spark plug tips towards the battery until you find where the transmission of power breaks down. So check for a spark at the plug tips.
if no power check the centre of the distributor cap, and if no power check the coil. at some point you will find power, the problem then, must be between the place you find power and the next step that should go but does not
Okay, I am not convinced it is the spark. But there is a chance. The fact that torching the plugs allowed it to start tells me you engine is flooding. Do you smell gas? If you open the throttle body with the air cleaner off, does vapor come out when the engine had recently cranked? If it is electrical, then power to both ignition modules is failing, which means A. the ECM is not providing power to the modules, or B. The engine crank sensor has failed. The Cause could be a bad connection to the ECM. A scope will indicate whether or not the proper pulses are being input and output from the ECM to the modules. Of course it will need to be tested when it is not working compared to when it is. When cranking, the tach should move indicating rotation of the crank, if not, there is a good chance the crank sensor is no good.
Remove the cable which connects your coil and the distributor from the distributor side. Have someone to crank your engine while holding the cable (use insulated pliers to hold the cable by insulated part). Maintain 1/2 inch distance from the engine surface where is some bare metal without paint. If there is the spark, then replace your distributor's cap and rotor. If there is no spark, replace coil and check your cap and rotor anyway, if they look worn and black inside, then replace them anyway. Note: before removing spark plug wires from distributor cap, mark wires and distributor!
I had similar problem would crank but not start. Tried many things finally found the distributor wires & cap was the problem. Was many years ago don't remember exact details, think cap had hairline crack that couldn't be seen. Just enough to let moisture in to the wires. replaced cap problem solved. Good luck.
Check for spark at the spark plugs. If no spark, remove distributor cap and inspect the inside of the cap and the rotor for obvious signs of wear or damage. Check for spark at the coil wire by removing the coil wire from the center of the distibutor cap, and, holding the end of it close to the engine block, have someone crank the engine. There should be a very strong spark. If there was spark at the coil but not at the plugs, replace the distributor cap and rotor. If there is no spark at the coil, you either have no power or ground at the coil, or the coil is bad. With the ignition ON, there should be 12v at the red wire for the ignition coil. if not, check the fuses. Check for the pulsing ground signal of the ignition coil at the other wire ( I think a white wire) using a test light clipped to battery + while the engine is being cranked. If there is no light, the problem is likely the ignition module or pick-up coil, which is located in the distributor. Make sure that the wiring and connections are in good shape for these items before condemning them.
Pick-up coil should have about 1500 ω of resistance.
there is no crank sensor on this vehicles 2.0L. If you have power to the coil, new coil, cap and rotor try this if not done yet>>>Unplug coil power first....Try pulling off the distributor cap, and make sure the rotor is spinning with the cam...If this fails to spin, inspect the entire distributor assembly. If it passes, Inspect all the power circuit and wiring to the dist assembly, if ok possible ecu. i recommend having a mechanic check it out!! Hopefully this helps...please rate...thanks
If not cranks at all check the battery for charge, starter, fuses
If cranks no start check wiring(replace) , distributor cap (replace), rotor, ignition coil
Please kindly let me know if you need more info
I had the same problem last year mine turned out to be a crank sensor I don't know if that is your problem for sure mine wouldn't send any spark from the coil to the spark plug replaced crank sensor inside distributor and fired right up the dealership called it a cam sensor my book called it a crank sensor either way its in the distributor