Question about 2004 Chevrolet Avalanche

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2004 avalanche..46k miles..was making a noise that sounded like something was warped ..abs would engage below 5 mph..took to repair shop and they replaced both front hubs..said the abs was fixed ..sensors were rusted and left bearings were bad..said noise was now the tires..i do not think so.will not take it back there..still makes a warping sound like a warped disc..brakes feel fine though.what else could this be??

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Try rotating your tires from front to back. It may help with the noise. Get a front-end alignment which can also help with the noise by correcting a "rub" sound that originates from the 2 front tires fighting each other for control.

The place which replaced your bearings is probably correct. When you get bad bearings they do not always fail evenly across the 360 degree turning of the bearing race. If you imagine a donut with a flat spot representing your bearing- as the donut spins with the flat spot cause by a disintegrating roller, the tire is bolted to the donut. The tire is going to hit the pavement differently every rotation because of the play in the bearing is at that same spot.

This play will create small cups in the tire shape at the low spot transmitted by the bearing. When you replaced the bearing , the marks in your tire tread remained. These edges need to be worn off. Or some tire stores can Shave a tire, in an attempt to make it round again.

If you have a normal size spare, you can put the spare on the left front side of your vehicle and see if the noise goes away. If the rims are different on the spare, you can have everything remounted and pay for rebalancing and put the unused spare as a front tire. Then you know the spare is at least good as a spare, but noisy.

Posted on Nov 06, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

My 2004 Avalanche has a noise that comes from the left side of the truck. Thought it was front, now it seems like the back. It happens primarily when I go over a speed bumb but now repeats itself...


It is ideal to have the suspension checked on all the four wheels. It is possible that loose joints, faulty bearings or faulty suspension links , shock-absorbers can cause this bump and noise.
A close check individually with a visual check on the bottom with all the linkages checked for PLAY or looseness will confirm , Check the wheel bearings and brake pad settings.

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My 2004 avalache started making a loud winding sound. can't tell if it's from the rear-end or the front of truck. starts to make noise when I get to 20 mph or higher. stops when I'm back below 20 mph


Look for something caught in the drive shaft - also check rear bearings and drive shaft bearings.

Sounds like you need to have a good oil change and have the mechanic give the underside a good going over. They will usually do this free as part of the oil change.

Also - check for a bad tire - sometimes the problem won't show sitting if the tire is separating on the inside and on the inside part of the tire.
I suspect a faulty tire that isn't separating until you get to speed.

Mar 11, 2010 | 2004 Chevrolet Avalanche

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check the wheel bearing sounds like a problem there.

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2004 avalanch locking differiantial


no. what this does is distribute power to the other wheel to gain traction and will work in conjunction with your abs system by sensing wheel speed. happy holidays

Dec 30, 2009 | 2004 Chevrolet Avalanche

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I also have a toyta seiana 2005 that makes a noise


The door check on the front of the door tears internally and requires rewelding. This repair has had the warranty extended if I recall c

Models:
'04 - '06 Sienna March 23, 2007
TSB REVISION NOTICE :
^ November 28, 2007: The note below the Warranty Information table has been updated. ^ July 6, 2007: The Warranty Information table has been updated with separate "Combo A" Op Codes. ^ May 29, 2007: The Warranty Information has been updated. The note before step 1 of the Repair Procedure has been updated. Previous versions of this TSB should be discarded.
Introduction
Some customers may experience a popping noise when opening and/or closing the front doors on their vehicle. Use the following procedure to diagnose and correct the condition.

Warranty application is limited to correction of a problem based upon a customer's specific complaint. Repair Procedure
NOTE :Inspect the door frame around the door check mounting area. ^ If a spot weld or check mount area is cracked or split, the following repair method CANNOT be performed and the door assembly MUST be replaced. ^ If a door is to be replaced, all hemming flanges and body panel seams MUST be sealed with body seam sealer prior to painting the door assembly. Refer to the Technical Information System (TIS), CRIB (Collision Repair Information Bulletin), "Bulletin # 16:1987 All: Sealing of Hemming Flanges And Body And Panel Seams," and "Bulletin # 44:1991 All: Body Seam And Joint Sealer Application ". (Note that the CRIBs are located within the CR tab of the main TIS screen.) ^ If a spot weld has separated, have a body shop perform the following procedure.

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1 Answer

Idle is high after going to the shop for brakes...


If they removed the battery cable, the on-board computer (PCM) would have been reset to a "learn" default. The idle will rise slightly until the PCM can relearn the proper position of the idle air control motor (IAC). In order for the PCM to do this, the car must be driven above 45 mph for several miles ( 5-10 ).
Another option is a vacuum hose was damaged or cracked during the repair. Take a look under the hood at the vacuum hoses at the throttle body and brake booster, make certain no hoses are disconnected or cracked. You can start the car and listen for vacuum leaks or "hissing" noises from the hoses.
Give both a try and let me know, we can go from there.
Regards,

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Check your u-joints in your front axles. It sounds like it is time to replace them.

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I've found ABS modules to start being problematic, having had the one on my 2001 Tahoe go bad. I finally got it rebuilt by a Company in Russia, Iowa, with a 5 year warranty, and it solved my problem.

They sell their service on E-Bay, and you can find their website there. Go to their website, and they will give you troubleshooting instructions.

It sure sounds like the problems I read about, and somewhat experienced.

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Brakes


It sounds like the rotor (brake disk) is warped. That would cause the pads to wear much more quickly because the disk "wobbles".
The warped disk can also cause the noise, depending on how bad the warp is.
When most shops change pads, they usually recommend that you "turn" the rotors, it is a way of truing the disk.

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