Question about 2000 Ford Mustang

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I have a 2000 3.8L mustang, and the magnetic distributor shaft is squreeching as it spins. I took the cap off once and put a little high temp bearing grease down at the base and the noise stopped. It lasted about a month, now its doing it again. Is there a way to replace the bearing in this without replacing the entire shaft??

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  • Ford Master
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Well, I think that the entire shaft should be replaced if it can be done so economically.
I like your idea bout putting high temp bearing grease down at the base of it, though. Did you use moly grease?

Strange, when I looked up the 2000 3.8L mustang it said that the 3.8L and v8 engines used DIS, or distributorless Ignition System which doesn't use a conventional distributor.

Posted on Nov 06, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Why is the distributor on my 1995 mustang gt 5.0 making a load humming sound with vibration


I have had 3 cars that have had distributor failures sine 1955.
All had the distributor bearings wear out at about 20 years of age.
That bearing holds the shaft straight.
That may be your problem .
Remove the cap and check for lateral (side-to-side) movement of the distributor shaft.
God bless your efforts.

Jun 16, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

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Magnet shavings inside distributor cap


. No they are not . It indicates that the distributor shaft is either bent or loose on the drive shaft. allowing the rotor button to touch the pins in the cap. It may also indicate that the mechanical advance is failing.

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I have a 1957 Ford 292 engine and it is misfiring on cylinders 4 and 8. What could be the problem?


I had a 312 cid in my 1956 Ford. There are several possibilities and in the firing order, cylinders 4 and 8 are next to each other in Counter Clockwise firing order.
There is a ridge on the cap which matches a slot on the distributor and allows the 2 parts to interlock and mesh. Any other rotation of the cap will tip the cap off center and increase the firing gap on the high side while possibly causing the opposing terminals to scrape.
Wear in breaker plate bushing or distributor shaft bushing. Easily determined if you can find a real old-time speed shop with a Distributor curve machine. What happens is torque shifts the spinning distributor shaft to the side of the bushing with excess play. Basically same thing happens with a worn breaker plate; movement causes misalignment of breaker plate and points lose gap when breaker cam tries to lift points.
If removed you can fiddle with distributor shaft and put points on "High-cam" for each cylinder and measure point gap. Logically, if perfect, each "High Cam" has the same gap. But wear will show up if you put pressure either on the breaker plate or the distributor shaft.
There is a spring pin holding the distributor gear onto the shaft. You may find a seal on the shaft at some point. The parts were lubed by the oil "sling" onto the distributor housing, You may be able to "180" the distributor drive gear so mark it relative to the distributor shaft.
Other than the above, I do not know if an 8mm wire would fit into the Distributor cap; the older wires were 7mm 0r thinner and sometimes spark would jump if the wires crossed.
Finally, and much more expensive would be worn rear Camshaft bushings. 4 and 8, I believe were opposed and wobble could account for non electrical misfiring.
I hope my info has helped you. Would be interested in what you found.

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2 Answers

Engine got wet


Water on the spark plug wires will do this, especially if your car has a distributor that is not solid state. Water gets inside the distributor cap of the older vehicles and shorts the spark to other cylinders than the ones intended which causes the rough running.
To push the water off the wires and out of a distributor cap, spray WD-40 anywhere you do not want the water so you can run the vehicle. Be very careful if you do this inside an older cars distributor cap since The WD-40 will also break down the bearing lubricant down the shaft. Use this in an emergency to get you home etc, then see a mechanic to make sure you didn't cause any bearing issues.

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1 Answer

I took my distributor out to replace the heads forgot to mark it. I reinstalled engine was hard to start but would start but rough I took dist. out thinking I was 180 out reinstalled turned over great but...


What you need to do is take the distributor out and by hand turn the engine so that Cylinder #1 is at TDC on the Ignition cycle. YOu can determine this by watching the valve rockers. Once the Exhaust valve has opened and closed, the intake valve should open and close. At that point watch the crank balancer for the "timing" marks to line up. Then install the distributor with the cap OFF, watching the rotor. It will rotate as you lower the distributor so you will have to rotate the dist shaft the right amount before you try to put it in so the rotor will point to #1 on the cap when it is all the way in.

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1 Answer

My transmission makes noise until I depress my clutch


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1 Answer

Element on distributor rotor keeps breaking off disabling the vehicle. How do you fix the problem?


It sounds as if the distributor shaft is moving, causing the rotor contact to collide with the distributor cap. With the cap off have someone turn the engine over and watch the rotor for a wobble. If there is a wobble either the bushings/bearings in the distributor housing are worn out or the shaft is bent or worn.

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1 Answer

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This also happened to my '95 mustang 5.0L I was actually driving when it lost power. Take the cap off of the distributor and see if the shaft wiggles. The distributor shaft in the mustangs are the weakest point of the engine. If the shaft wobbles the rotor will wobble hitting the points and may break the rotor. All the metal grinding will put little metal shavings in the housing where the magnetic pick-up will attract them, this is the problem. You can replace the magnetic pick-up but if the shaft is moving around you will need a new distributor all around.

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1 Answer

How remove drive line from 2000 gmc 1500 truck?


Take off the drive shaft?

PUT BLOCKS IN FRONT AND BEHIND THE FRONT WHEELS so the vehicle can NOT roll anywhere... into you, over you, into your kids, through the garage wall, down the driveway onto the neighbour's lawn.. etc.. these stupid things happen to people.. so start safe. (and work somewhere reasonably level)

Jack the truck up so the rear wheels are slightly off the ground, put stands under the axle on either side for safety.. put the vehicle in neutral.. climb underneath

and undo the drive shaft spider. There's four bolts.. two each side, that hold the bearing caps to the differential.

Once you have the bolts out and caps off, (in some vehicles they're little U shaped bolts) you should be able to just **** the drive shaft a little bit forward towards the engine or wiggle it a bit.. it should slide forward enough to release the rear spider. Try to keep the bearing caps on the spider.. should they fall apart or fall off you'll have needles all over the place (needle bearings). You can replace the spider if the caps are sloppy or the needles are really rusty. I usually just wrap them on with some electrical tape to keep them on until it's reassembled, and carefully remove them to inspect them before reassembly.

Don't, pull the front of the drive shaft out of the transmission. While it accidentally can happen, it makes a huge mess, as transmission fluid will flood out of the transmission. You can reinsert it if this happens, just make sure it's clean. It is free to move slide, and fall, and can also result in a nasty little bonk on the head, should you accidentally pull it towards the rear of the vehicle until it falls out.

Once you have that apart, you should be able to spin your blocked up rear wheels if the diff's good.. or not, if the diff's shot.

Was a vague question.. I hope I said something useful..



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