Question about 1994 Ford F150 Styleside Supercab
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 1954 ford f 100 wiring
that's the link just google it you'll find it!
Posted on Oct 06, 2008
1) #1-4 pass side front to rear #5-8 drivers side front to rear
3)#1 is usually marked on cap wires go ccw
4) TDC #1 cyl you must remove the shorting plug before timing
it is located by the dist plug or the ignition module small gray plug
Posted on Dec 13, 2008
SOURCE: serpintine route for a 1990ford
I'm not an expert, but I have a 1990 f150 300 straight 6 cyl. as well and I drew you a simple diagram.
hope it helps.
If you know of a fuel tank switch for the dash plz let me know!
Posted on May 05, 2009
Make sure that the primary wire between the distributor ignition points and ignition coil is not damaged anywhere and grounding the circuit out. This is not a ground wire.
Replace the ignition points condenser, if this is shorted your points will never be able to work. With the condenser removed, use an ohm meter to check the resistance between the end of the condenser wire and the condenser caseing, there should be infinite resistance or an open loop, but it should not show any kind of a connection between the two, or it is grounded or "shorted to ground" and it will prevent the ignition system from working.
Are the ignition points adjusted properly? They have to open and close to send a dwell signal to the coil.
Connect a test light to ground and on the NEG. (-) side of the coil, have someone crank the engine and look for the test light to flash, the test light should flash indicating a dwell signal or coil pulse. (Do not use the POS. + side of the coil for this test, because you will not get a dwell signal).
If no dwell signal, then...
1. Turn off ignition and remove the distributor cap and turn the engine over until a high spot on the distributor cam lobe is on the rubbing block on the ignition points.
This is the fully open position for the ignition points and where they need to be to set them. and if you do not know the feeler gauge size, or the dwell angle to set your points at (according to manufacturers specifications), then tear off a piece of a match book and place it between the two point breakers.
2. Loosen the point hold down adjusting screw and move the base of the points with a screwdriver (look for adjusting nothches), until there is a light drag felt pulling on the match book. For the newer GM's up to 1974, just use a 1/8 allen wrench to obtain the same light drag on the match book.
3. Remove the matchbook and there should still be a small gap between the point breakers, rotate the engine and you should see the points open and fully close.
4. Pull the coil wire out of the distributor cap and ground the end of the coil wire well or you might get shocked.
5. Have someone crank the engine and re-check for a dwell signal, you should also see a blue-white spark flashing between the point breakers as they open and close.
If you now have a dwell signal then replace the distributor cap back onto the distributor and the the coil wire back onto the distributor cap, the engine should now start.
If you did not grease the rubbing block of the ignition points with die-electric grease when you installed them, then the rubbing block on the points will wear down prematurely, the points will close down, and the engine will no longer start.
If you crank your engine over and the ignition rotor turns clockwise (looking down at the rotor) then you need to put the die-electric grease along the right side of the rubbing block edge (looking down at the points) so that the grease is trapped between the points and the distributor cam lobe, and the distributor cam lobe can pick up the grease. (Grease the left side of the rubbing block edge if the ignition rotor turns counter-clockwise). Only use die-electric grease.
Posted on Apr 19, 2010
If your clutch master cylinder is good in all other gears: you can disengage and, shift the other gears with the engine not running and, you have the correct amount of clutch fluid
in your clutch master cylinder: to release the clutch:
you have a broken 5th gear syncro and, a bent fork
remove the transmission and, when you remove the shift cover you will
see the problem; you must drain the transmission case remove any metal debris; remove the gear set and, replace the syncro...the fork can probably be
re-straightened use clean, new case oil when you reassemble the transmission.
Posted on Aug 04, 2010
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