To take out your drive shafts you first need to drain oil from gearbox.plug is on the bottom of box.when this is done remove wheels..take off your disc caliper (2 bolts).tie them up out of way.remove disc rotor(should just slide off).then you need to remove split pins from your steering rack(tierod).. 2 bolts where the part bolts to the strut.next is at base (lower control arm).you will see a bolt and nut(this will be tight to get out use a soft punch like copper or brass shaft to knock bolt out.dont damage thread).to replace this you have to make sure it sits in the right place or you will damage thread when you fit the bolt...when all this is done the hard part comes.the drive shaft is very tight in the gearbox due to a spring type circlip on the axle shaft.you have to wrench the shaft towards you to free it .some times you may have to get a very solid big flat screwdriver in between the gearbox and shaft to loosen past the clip.when it is free ,just slide out.when you have done what you need to do.assembly is just reversing whatyou have just done . to fill gearbox up you have to take out the speedo cable and speedo drive from the gearbox (at back off motor,1 little bolt).top up .you have a mark on the drive to tell you the level.hope this helps (have fun)
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
step 2, remove trans-axle. (im assUming stick shift, as both have clutches.) it's only tedious no tricks or rabbits out of hat.
why not youtube others doing this first. see if its "easy for you" first.
so what does it say there. on that #2 step in FSM.book
answer for STICK shift car.
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Drain the transaxle oil.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Clutch operating cylinder with hose still attached
Gear control cables
All the wiring harness clamps and connectors involved with the transaxle removal, tag if necessary for location to aid during installation
Ground cable at the transaxle
Exhaust No. 1 pipe bolts
Support engine with lifting device.
Engine under covers
Exhaust No. 1 pipe and exhaust No. 2 pipe
Left and right ball joints from steering knuckles
Drive shaft joints
Center shaft support and center shaft
Engine rear mounting
Engine rear mounting No. 1 bracket with No. 2 bracket
Transaxle to engine bolts and nut
Support transaxle with a transmission jack.
Left engine mounting with bracket
Remove any remaining attached parts from the transaxle.
Pull transaxle out so as to disconnect the input shaft from the clutch disc and then remove it.
then the install.'
lots more steps and torque settings. RTM?
This may be a bearing that has failed inside the transmission, when you take the load off it by putting in the clutch it quiets down. The noise could also be the CV axle joints, but that would be a clicking noise on turns under power light throttle. I suggest you drain some fluid from the transmission and see if it has metal filings in it.
Go with the one who said the brakes.
There is no clutch release bearing on an automatic transmission.
A rear brake shoe that is "dragging" due to mechanical problem such as a broken spring, retainer clip or stuck cylinder could cause the noise you describe. Rear tires and brake drums need to be removed for inspection.
Problem could also be from defective rear axle bearing or rear differential, but not likely.
If you bought new drive axles, they may not have given you the right ones (too short) - they did this to me with my 93 Subi - (I own a 93 Toyota Corolla DX).
Make sure that you are pushing the drive axle in as far as it will go into the tranny - and when putting the other end in the hub assembly - make sure it is lining up (there should be grooves on the axle that MUST lign up with the grooves on the inner portion of the hub assembly.
After pushing the drive axle into the driveline you should not be able to pull it out by hand at all (without effort).
Please let me know if you need further assistance.
in a front wheel drive car you need to first disconnect all sensors take off wheels take off controll arm,half shaft, ball joint, front,side,and rear motor mounts remove front exhaust pipe, change control rod, stationary control rod, unhook battery, remove joint shaft, starter, tie rod end, right and left axle..... there is a lot of disassemble but if you are ready for the job then go to autozone.com sign up its free then click on repair manuals you will find
all of your info there....good luck
you have to raise vechicle.use jack stands.block rear wheels.apply parking brake.when loosen axle nut.its more easier to leave wheel on.let vechicle weight hold wheel from turning while you loosen axle nut.you need to get a 1/2 break bar or large ratchett wrench with a deep socket .you need to buy socket use to remove axle nut a regular socket would probably break.when you remove the axle nut.remove brake caliper and brake pads.set them aside dont disconnect brake caliper.get a piece of wire to hang it out the way.dont use brake hose.could damage it. remove brake caliper support bracket then the rotor.get a hub removing tool remove hub.then loosen hub and bearings bolts .then remove shield hub and bearings assembly with O-ring.disconnect ball joint from steering knuckle using the proper tool.remove the halfshaft assembly and tap the seal from the steering knuckle.remove the steering knuckle from the hub.now that drive axle out the way.get the seal removing tool.its a flat tool with two hooks on it.to pry seal out transmission.or you can use a small chisel to clapse the seal but be careful dont damage the seal housing.when installing new seal coat it with transmission fluid.drive it in using a large socket.if you are reusing same axle replace circlip on the end of it.now putting back together.install a new hub and bearing seal in the steering knuckle with a seal installer tool .install steering knuckle to the strut.lubricate the hub and bearings with grease.install halfshaft.connect ball joint to the steering knuckle .install a new O-ring around the hub and bearing assembly.install hub and bearing assembly into the steering knuckle.tighten bolts to 75 ft lbs.install rotor then brake caliper support bracket bolts 120 to148 ft lbs.this is mounting bracket bolts only not the caliper bolts to brake shoes.put brake shoes and caliper back on torque 38 ft lbs.install shaft washer the axle nut to 180 ft lbs.tighten much as you can.before setting car on ground.to torque it to 180 ft lbs place car wheel back on set it down so the car weight keep wheel from turning.i hope this information works out for you good luck.and work safe.
Removal (3000GT AWD) 1. Remove air cleaner cover, air hoses and vacuum pipe. Remove air cleaner, intake hose, battery, battery tray and washer tank. 2. Disconnect transaxle control cables and speedometer cable. Raise and support vehicle. 3. Remove both inner fender splash shields. Remove clutch tube bracket and disconnect clutch release cylinder (including clutch damper assembly on FWD models) and wire aside. Support transaxle assembly with jack and disconnect upper transaxle mount. Remove mount, bracket, plug and stoppers. 4. Remove transaxle assembly upper coupling bolts. Disconnect tie rod ends and lower arm ball joints. Remove right support member, starter cover (if equipped) and starter. 5. Remove left side bearing bracket mounting bolts and pry left axle shaft from transaxle. Wire left axle shaft and inner shaft assembly aside. Pry right axle shaft from transaxle and wire aside. 6. Remove front bank side and rear bank side transaxle stays. Support transaxle assembly with a transmission jack. Remove transaxle assembly lower coupling bolts and lower transaxle from vehicle. 7. Insert a clutch alining tool to prevent pressure plate and clutch disc from falling. Loosen pressure plate bolts gradually in a crisscross pattern to avoid warping pressure plate flange. Remove pressure plate and clutch disc.