To take out your drive shafts you first need to drain oil from gearbox.plug is on the bottom of box.when this is done remove wheels..take off your disc caliper (2 bolts).tie them up out of way.remove disc rotor(should just slide off).then you need to remove split pins from your steering rack(tierod).. 2 bolts where the part bolts to the strut.next is at base (lower control arm).you will see a bolt and nut(this will be tight to get out use a soft punch like copper or brass shaft to knock bolt out.dont damage thread).to replace this you have to make sure it sits in the right place or you will damage thread when you fit the bolt...when all this is done the hard part comes.the drive shaft is very tight in the gearbox due to a spring type circlip on the axle shaft.you have to wrench the shaft towards you to free it .some times you may have to get a very solid big flat screwdriver in between the gearbox and shaft to loosen past the clip.when it is free ,just slide out.when you have done what you need to do.assembly is just reversing whatyou have just done . to fill gearbox up you have to take out the speedo cable and speedo drive from the gearbox (at back off motor,1 little bolt).top up .you have a mark on the drive to tell you the level.hope this helps (have fun)
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Denise, check the video links on how to remove CV axle on Mazda Protege.
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step 2, remove trans-axle. (im assUming stick shift, as both have clutches.) it's only tedious no tricks or rabbits out of hat.
why not youtube others doing this first. see if its "easy for you" first.
so what does it say there. on that #2 step in FSM.book
answer for STICK shift car.
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Drain the transaxle oil.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Clutch operating cylinder with hose still attached
Gear control cables
All the wiring harness clamps and connectors involved with the transaxle removal, tag if necessary for location to aid during installation
Ground cable at the transaxle
Exhaust No. 1 pipe bolts
Support engine with lifting device.
Engine under covers
Exhaust No. 1 pipe and exhaust No. 2 pipe
Left and right ball joints from steering knuckles
Drive shaft joints
Center shaft support and center shaft
Engine rear mounting
Engine rear mounting No. 1 bracket with No. 2 bracket
Transaxle to engine bolts and nut
Support transaxle with a transmission jack.
Left engine mounting with bracket
Remove any remaining attached parts from the transaxle.
Pull transaxle out so as to disconnect the input shaft from the clutch disc and then remove it.
then the install.'
lots more steps and torque settings. RTM?
The Selectable Four Wheel Drive (S4WD) Front Axle consist of the following components:
• Differential Carrier Housing
• Differential Case Assembly
• Inner Axle Shaft
• Intermediate Shaft Bearing Assembly (located on the right side of the oil pan)
• Electric Motor Actuator
The front axle on Selectable Four Wheel Drive (S4WD) model vehicles uses a disconnect feature mounted on the right side of the oil pan in order to engage and disengage the front axle. When the driver engages the 4WD system, the Transfer Case Control Module sends a signal to the electric motor actuator to energize and extend the plunger inside. The extended plunger moves the clutch fork and clutch fork sleeve across from the clutch fork outer gear that is splined to the right side wheel drive shaft to the clutch fork inner gear that is splined to the inner axle shaft. The locking of the two gears allows the axle to operate in the same manner as a semi-floating rear axle. A propeller shaft connects the transfer case to the front axle. The differential carrier assembly uses a conventional ring and pinion gear set to transmit the driving force of the engine to the wheels. The open differential allows the wheels to turn at different rates of speed while the axle continues to transmit the driving force. This prevents tire scuffing when going around corners and premature wear on internal axle parts. The ring and pinion set and the differential are contained within the carrier. The axle identification number is located on top of the differential carrier assembly or on a label on the bottom of the right half of differential carrier assembly. The wheel drive shafts are completely flexible assemblies consisting of inner and outer constant velocity CV joints protected by thermoplastic boots and connected by a wheel drive shaft.
This may be a bearing that has failed inside the transmission, when you take the load off it by putting in the clutch it quiets down. The noise could also be the CV axle joints, but that would be a clicking noise on turns under power light throttle. I suggest you drain some fluid from the transmission and see if it has metal filings in it.
I also need an answer, I need to know how to fix the Protege , It won't shift to 2, 4, or reverse but it definitely goes to 1,3,5 and I've been riding it like a soldier, just sucks when I cant back up out of a parking space and have to push it
Go with the one who said the brakes.
There is no clutch release bearing on an automatic transmission.
A rear brake shoe that is "dragging" due to mechanical problem such as a broken spring, retainer clip or stuck cylinder could cause the noise you describe. Rear tires and brake drums need to be removed for inspection.
Problem could also be from defective rear axle bearing or rear differential, but not likely.